Search results

Who’s to say whether it will work long term. What caused the warpage in the first place and could the plastic be fatigued enough. Hard to say. A fan blade breaking is not unheard of. If it were my 28 y/o engine, I wouldn’t take the chance. A replacement fan is much cheaper than a radiator.

The service spec is .004” - .006”

What did you set the valve lash to? Did you perform the adjustment properly?

@Jimmy the Lock, (you identify as a lock?) You can change your oil every 5 minutes for all I care. Maybe all the confusion is due to you stating the mowers owners manual and I stating the engine owners manual. @StarTech, according to Kawasaki tech training, the engine components are washed...

Can’t believe I am replying to this junk. The Kawasaki engine manual states 100 hours for the first oil change. Kawasaki does not build the mower. If the mower manufacturer says to change the oil daily, that does not mean that recommends it be changed daily. I attend Kawasaki factory training, I...

Please provide documentation as to where Kawasaki signed off on using Amsoil. Please provide documentation as to where Kawasaki has recommended using 10W30 oil. If your manual shows an 8 hr oil change, you received and old owners manual with your 2023 mower. The current manual can be found at...

Use classification and engine classification are not the same. It is a commercial grade engine intended for use on residential applications. Hows that? We are both correct on what we are describing. It is the lowest cost engine in the twin cylinder line up.

The FR is so a commercial grade engine. The long block of the FR, FS, FT and FX are virtually identical. The FR is intended to be on a tractor, under a hood. Just because they get mounted on a zero turn does not change the classification on the engine. So, should it be used “commercially” on the...

Hey @StarTech, this is not an OEM kit. The kit is not available from Kawasaki. Even if it is made up of OEM parts, it still is not an OEM kit. For answers on emissions, I would recommend you contact the EPA. What you wrote about customers being too cheap, you are spot on. That is why we are...

Sir, have you even read the engine warranty statement that came with your mower? My bet is that you tossed it and the owners manual in the trash the day you bought it! Modifications to the engine void your warranty with Kawasaki. Furthermore, modifying the engine in a way that changes the...

The smart thing to do would be to use genuine Kawasaki parts while the engine is within warranty. Although it is not required, if there is any issue with the engine, it can’t be suspected that the cause of the failure is due to using an aftermarket part. Kawasaki oil is formulated with the...

I’m with Rivets. I don’t believe Onan used Kawasaki. For sure not in 2002.

Likely no sealant is used. What model is the engine?

Good post, you’re pretty close. Parts bulletins just advise that the part has changed. They do not imply warranty. Kawasaki, for example, has a factory authorized repair which states if the engine is in warranty and the part fails, it is authorized to be replaced per the terms of the FAR (fix as...

2014 purchase and you think Kawasaki will do something? Good luck. The warranty is 36 months. Doesn’t matter if the engine has 10 hours or 10,000. There was a parts bulletin not a recall (learn the difference) on the redesign of the cylinder heads back in 2011. Before this engine was built.

OEM part number was 3154016100E which subbed to 16001-2006 which subbed to 16001-2018

Check the valve lift. Might be a worn lobe on the camshaft.

You could use an FH721V-GS24-S replacement but it would have the bendix type electric starter. If the starter off you current engine is fine, you could just swap the starter. Or with the bendix type you would need to install a starter solenoid on the mower. The closest direct replacement with...

If you work on cars, do you have a remote start button? Go directly from the battery to the starter, by-passing the mower. It's possibly a failed B+ battery cable.

Treated fuel does not prevent fuel deterioration. If your lucky the carburetor is still savable and if you can find someone to competently clean it. Best practice, drain fuel before storage. Second best, use Kawasaki ethanol free fuel with a guaranteed shelf life. Good luck.

Has this bullet proof antique ever had any valve train maintenance? Valves inspected for wear, lash adjustment. How about a leak down test to check for leakage?

My mower does not have an oil pressure switch. I like Hustler’s suggestion to just unplug it and check your oil regularly. Unless the engine is about to fail anyway, you likely don’t have low pressure.

Don’t waste time and money on changing oil. Oil switches on riding equipment, mower, golf cars, etc., in the US only detect pressure not level. You could be a quart low and still not activate the switch potentially. This is why everyday, people are seizing their engines. By relying on the light...

It is best to know what you actually have for oil pressure. You can use any of the pipe plugs (Allen head) to tap into to get a pressure reading. Keep in mind that the threads are 1/8” British pipe thread. It is also aluminum so do not over-tighten. Hustler has has issues with the oil light...

No “breather” update that I can recall. Are you referring to the air filter cover?

Please be more specific. Pictures, part numbers, etc. Not sure what you are referring to.

Full choke to restart a hot engine is normal. If full choke is needed to keep it running, this is a fuel delivery issue. You would need to check the entire fuel system from tank to carburetor. Possibly a fuel cap not venting. When it starts to surge, open the cap. Other tank venting issue or a...

It is common that when the cylinder head is overheated that the valve guide comes loose, yes. There is no repair procedure for this and the guide is not a replacement part from Kawasaki. I’ve seen many try to get the valve guide back into place. It usually never works. For the few that have made...

I am unable to view your picture but on Kawasaki engines the arrow on top of the piston points towards the flywheel.

Typically you can tell by the spark plug if it might me one cylinder with an issue. If one plug is super clean, almost like new, that is likely the cylinder with the issue. Sometimes I use a dye in the coolant as well to possibly reveal a slight crack or where the coolant shouldn’t be.

Ouch, sorry to hear that. Those old Kawasaki liquid cooled are awesome engines. Not made that at anymore.

Yes, the float valve is worn and not sealing off in the seat. Could be a cracked float, could just be trash in the fuel. I’m curious to see what you make a new float valve from. 😆 Why not spend the few dollars and get the correct part? The engine has lasted what, 25+ years, don’t you think it is...

Yes, that could be.

The tiny coil off the side of the ignition coil acts as a small charging or lighting coil for something on the mower that needs power. Is this what you are referring to?

What is the engine code. Any labels?

The actual service manual is only on Kawasaki’s dealer portal. Not available to end users. I’m sure someone will provide a link.

The slot on the right side is for adjusting the high idle. The adjustment procedure is in the manual as well. As far as the governor shaft comment, there is a hold drilled sideways in the shaft to where you put an Allen wrench or small screwdriver to turn the shaft. Also explained in the manual.

Did you reset the static governor adjustment?

Riding mowers do not have a low oil shutdown. At least not in the US. This is not OSHA compliant.

As you stated, it would be very unlikely but not impossible that both coils would fail at the same time. And, the coil will actually get hotter (heat soak) for up to 5 minutes after the engine stops.

There is nothing on the engine that is going to reset itself after 5 minutes of sitting. I would focus on the safety system next. Seat switch, other switches.

Junk in the fuel tank getting picked up and cutting fuel flow? Is the fuel pump working correctly? Should flow 6-7 oz of fuel in 30 seconds at between 2.5 - 3 psi. Try gravity feeding fuel directly to the carburetor. These would be my thought. Doesn’t seem electrical if it will start right back up.

@StarTech again, good catch. Here’s the deal from a contact at KMC. The newer -1077 part number is due to an emission change. The older -0822 is compliant until inventory is used up. Grandfathered in other words. When stock is exhausted, -0822 will sub to -1077. So, @blahblah1212 , either part...

Great point @StarTech , this would be one for Kawasaki as to what the difference is. The serial number listed does take the number I specified.

You can search any S30. The A, B or C in this case, is just the revision of the S30 spec. So C is the third revision of the spec.

Carburetor number is 15004-1077. Tip: all Kawasaki carburetor part numbers start with 1500. It you look at the top of your carburetor, it will have 41077 engraved. Add 1500 to get 150041077. Two venturi carbs will have the whole number engraved.

Sounds like you are on the right track of debris in the tank. Common issue.

The “pilot screw” is the idle port adjustment. Typically there is no need to remove this. When you get the welch plug out for the transition port, just spray carb cleaner in the passage towards the screw. If cleaner comes out the little hole in the venturi, you are good to go. Good luck.

Also, proper reinstallation of the new welch plugs is important. Unfortunately, most that call themselves mechanics don’t do it correctly.

There is no pilot jet. The pilot circuit is drawn off the main circuit via the idle fuel restrictor. This is the little brass tube that runs through the venturi. It is not removable. You would need to remove the small welch plug at the top of the carb and hope you can get the old fuel cleaned...