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A single diode tests as you describe, not sure on the doubles. And I wonder about diodes in a kill circuit. Something odd going on here.

Buy a new Chinese special for a couple hundred bucks. Verify shaft size and rig up the muffler, pretty decent quality. And this place has a bunch of K56 Tuff Torq, hydros for cheap too. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Engines/Gas-Diesel-Engines/Vertical-Shaft-Engines/

Wife is kind of small and the 22" NAKTO was just right for her, and I kind of figured it would be a short lived interest and didn't want to put a lot of money in it, sure might be even shorter "lived" than I expected.

Might get some plastic totes for covers? Stack inside each other when stored. My dad instilled in me to never leave stuff outside, even my wheelbarrow is in the shed.

Is this one of those that you pull up on to allow the switch to move?

My old 18hp flat twin Briggs just sounds good at idle though, sort of lopes like an old Harley. Like to put some straights on that mower but the neighbors probably wouldn't appreciate it.

I've been running Rotella T 15w40 with a dose of Rislone ZDDP additive in my Kohler twin lately. Getting old at 700 hours but this oil seems to do the job fine. Old throwaway JD L130 that I'm going to keep going until it keels over completely.

One thing for sure, John Deere really hit it big with those throw away riders. Get out on a sunny day and those D, E, and L mowers are everywhere. But see Craigs list full of them too, pretty cheap, and no doubt run really good - for 10 or 15 minutes. I do like those variable speed belt drives...

Many years ago I cut a hole in a distributor cap to see how the electronic timing advance worked, couldn't picture it but did see how it worked through the hole. Might have to do that someday on an old Briggs. That big old coil with that air vane shaped over and around it seems like it would...

Indoor shutters here. And we're not that interesting. Living in town does have it's problems sometimes.

Yep, there it is. The one store I didn't go to, LOL. Tractor supply has a pretty good website seems like.

The area you are pin-pointing is just a broached ring to hold the shoulder ring on. The splined pulley is a three piece deal looks like, center and two outer rings. Idler pulley looks ok, need bearing and snap ring? The bearing would sit on a shoulder with the snap ring holding it in on the...

Where do you get this 00 grease?. I've checked several Tractor Supply, Rural King, Menards stores. No luck.

I don't think the zt-2200 hydros are serviceable? Probably still last you a long time with your useage.

And I've often wondered why Briggs is so persistent on blocking that cooling air for the engine. Either a governor or now the choke deal. I took that choke deal off my mower with this deal on it. Another solution looking for a problem.

Get some ear plugs. Use them. All that ringing and chirping I hear 24 hours a day.........

That looks better than new! Alloy deck too! Mine is identical except for the flimsy steel deck. Been looking for that aluminum deck for a while, hard to find a non-propelled one these days. Have to remember that Mopar grabber green for touch ups.

Looks like a big player in this is Alibaba. Look for a part or item you've bought lately on their site and you'll see what you could get that for in a lot of 100, or 1000. Pretty amazing. And they are probably not the cheapest wholeseller of Asian merch.

I guess I'm just living in the past? No wonder China is taking over the world.

I've had a couple old Briggs NOS motors from early 80s and they were good to go. How old is the short block actually?

One thing I'd add, wild guess. Brake? This hydro has an external disc type brake and it's not closed or covered. Might check into that before doing anything radical. That transmission is an expensive proposition.

That motor have a fuel pump? There are differences in filter materials and some don't work well on gravity feed systems.

I wonder about the 60"+ deck with all that mowing around stuff? But I do like the big hydros on the Bad Boy, and I'd sure double check the mower being bought to insure that it does have that back there.

That's interesting. Even with really cheap stuff there can't be any real profit in that?

And the Chinese Flu pandemic and the half billion masks that we've imported from, you know, China.

Does the engine slow way down going up that hill, or the mower just won't pull?

Been a while but seems like on my mower the actual bottom of the motor is about an inch above the deck plate. Might be much easier if you just pull the motor off the mower?

Make me a better mower wrench/hammer man?

That's what I've found out over the years too, even with Nicd and Nimh. Factory seconds? Thirds?

Series: five batteries at four volts for the 20v output - parallel, two sets tied together for double the current capacity. But those are packaged pretty tight, oh well.

One more thing to try, probably hopeless, but put some current into each cell with a charger that outputs around 4 volts for a couple minutes each. Then try your regular charger, if it sees some voltage on the pack it may actually recharge the pack.

You are stopping before shifting?

I double check the tensioner. That is a one belt deck (?) with a really long belt. That tensioner can get dirty and won't keep up with the belt flapping around. Maybe time for a new belt too?

And those metal strip connectors can be cut easy and soldered. No magic in the connectors. But a lot of the Chinese replacement cells brag on their high ratings, but are pretty weak when actually loaded. A good source for powerful Li-ion batteries is a laptop battery pack. Most are connected...

If it still runs maybe tell him to use it until it quits. Might have a nice window in the block to see what was wrong?

I wonder if that motor has an automatic choke? Does it actually have a primer that you push? But I suspect you'll need to get into the carb.

Just me, I'd forget it. Too many hours and too much expensive stuff that can go wrong at this point. 1700 hours is about 20 years in normal use I think.

I'd think that comp. release would be out of the way when running. Plastic cam gears shot? If you get deeper into it let us know what you find.

Not laughing here. Every time I get a checkup I have to eliminate something from my diet seems like. Carbs, salt, sugar, latest was major cut in milk drinking. Probably wind up raking the lawn after mowing and having it for dinner.

Just in:

I think that engine was designed for those special hi-performance offset valve heads. Did you manage to get a decent looking pattern on the seats with the lapping?

Does this carb have the little screen/filter in the fuel inlet? Have to look close to see it. Worth a look.

Try pulling back on the brake/clutch pedal. Not sure how this mower is set up but usually that will add some belt tension. If that helps it you need a new belt or other parts.

Sort of like removing a tie rod or ball joint. Whack the adapter on the side of the collar with a hammer and drift while 'bucking' it on the opposite side. The compression will pop it loose.

If this is just a basic cap and not just part of a circuit you can test ti with a 12v battery and small light bulb. Charge the cap with the battery, then remove the battery and use the cap to power the light bulb. It will burn for a second or two or three if the cap is good. Look at the...

A drop of oil now and then and the fix would probably last forever. Have to remember that one.

Looks like a good practical work around for that deal. Hope that keeper inside stays in place though.

I have a Greenworks lunchbox electric washer and it also had a velcro strap for the hose. Little thing that does come in handy.

I've been using the Tractor Supply batteries for several years, get really good long term service. I take the battery out in January and give it a recharge. Usually buy the upper level battery, 300 amp I'm thinking.

The coupling between the hydro unit and the differential is a pretty skimpy looking sliding sleeve. That would be what I'd first suspect. This can be replaced but when splitting the case, it's glued/sealed pretty good, getting it resealed is tough. I'd double check all of the above before...