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Try it with a load on it, couple 500 watt work lights is good, doesn't need exact voltage etc.

I've also had a bad spark plug do this. Hard to trace this down though.

Last two S10s, Regular Havoline 10w30 in both for 300k miles, both still running, motors untouched internally. Good enough for me.

Stopped for gas today, saw a guy across the way with a big hogleg in a holster. About 18" long, barrel the size of my wrist, handle like my ankle. Slugs on the belt looked to be about 3/4" dia. Pretty proud of it, walked in the store with it openly. Election time here in the states. If he...

Lot of the old gearheads used to say use one oil and stick with it. Not sure if that's true today but might be something to it? Different additives and detergents etc.

Auto choke thermostat not working right?

Little off topic here but I used to work with a guy whose family had a big farm spread. A big highway went through a big part of the best field. One day his dad was running his tractor across the road to plow over there, State Trouper saw him, hit the lights to write him up. That trouper...

Probably does need some tuning. How long did you run it? Could be the muffler just needs a good burn out?

Looks like it should work with existing regulator. I'd try it. Two ungrounded AC wires from the stator on both units. Probably to a bridge rectifier & regulator so the output voltages should be the same with more amperage available.

Wedge and sledge needed. But I'd stand back and wait too. Can't run as fast as I used to.

Wife gives him hell for not mowing the grass. He says he can't, "the mower is shot."

Well, this is 2020 after all. Two more months.

Do you get a warning when the battery goes below 10%? Draining the battery to a very low point could be causing the problems?

I wonder if he's still in business after six years?

I'd bypass the fuel filter first. Not real sure what that seafoam is but might be some thicker than straight gas? Filters are finicky sometimes on mowers.

I was thinking the same thing. Get a set of 1 inch dia. bigger wheels, same size axle, and look for actual bearings. Usually not expensive.

That 2000 mile drive would kill the deal for me. But always on the lookout for free lawn stuff. And I've had mowers that really tried to beat me too.

Don't know about that artwork, but good message. Or maybe the art is part of the joke?

Good tips. Maybe there's hope for me after all?

I've put a gauge on engines before by making a metal bracket for the sensor bolted close or against the block. Get the oil temp with this, heat will conduct through the bracket to the sensor with very little loss. Also did this for the hydro transmission to see actually how hot it runs, sensor...

Might take a look at this review: https://www.amazon.com/review/R3OSDE2O1NQGET

Yeah, those ventilated blocks were never a good idea. I wonder what the exit holes looked like? That gun would kill an elephant I suspect. I noticed he only shot 5 times, saved a slug in case it jumped back at him?

That was a good sounding Briggs too. Darn.

That usually has some notches on it to indicate that, except for that one critical bolt.........

That was a good mower back then, probably better than most today. Twin cylinder, Eaton hydro, solid build. Above numbers are spot on I think.

That Hydro Gear transaxle has a separate hydraulic unit and differential. As stated above changing the hydraulic oil would be a major chore. The gear oil would be some easier, (real easy with a drain plug). But sometimes it's tough to get it resealed without leaks. I'd leave it alone...

Is this something that could be welded?

I like that Vanguard engine. And I like the Ferris. How has that old 48" mower served you?"

That topic has been beat to death these days. Barrier lubrication, eliminated from most current oils, extremely important with flat tappet cams and here with the untreated unsleeved aluminum bore motors.

I used to work for that company.

I'd search around the net for a smaller LED light bar, wire to the original headlight power, ten times the light for less current, won't normally burn out.

I'd say you got your money's worth on that mower. If really damaged you might do a Surplus Center or Harbor Freight motor swap and get another 14 years?

I'd look for that purchase receipt first. But then a of today's warranties are pretty much garbage unless purchased from an actual lawn mower shop, spend hours on emails and phone calls, lucky to talk to a person, even luckier to get any action.

We might be missing something here. Does the mower run like it should?

I suspect that sharp dogleg at the top of the big pipe is creating a road block to the flow. But with real dry material it probably works as you are now seeing. Those baggers are pretty handy this time of year.

Hope you don't see this on teardown. I found out the hard way that today's oil is not so good for old aluminum bore Briggs engines. Look close and see that the top where the rings still run is ok. Down lower the bore is not only scored but metal is actually being pulled off from the piston...

Some older Murrays have the shift on the fender and a reverse lock out contact piece there.

A mortician with a sense of humor?

If you're still into the old Briggs a couple things you can do for free. Pull the head, some sandpaper on a flat piece of steel. Plane (cut) the surface down as much as you can and still have a good gasket surface. Find a bigger carb on something in a scrap yard, make it work since you don't...

Well, it is still the year 2020.

I know all about the autochoke but I still had to watch Tarryl's video just for fun.

I believe the 240 is made by MTD. And I would really avoid turning real sharp to get the 5" radius, seems like that would be hard on everything.

Need the model number, first three numbers tell who made it I think. Most steering mechanisms are built pretty cheap these days, need a lot of maintenance to keep it like it should be. In the lower priced mowers these days there isn't a lot of difference in build quality between brands seems like.

Is this a Briggs engine? Might have the automatic choke with an air vane that pulls it off. Could be some binding in the linkage that is preventing the choke closing?

I think most small engines have this, ignition trigger is on the crank flywheel, not sure on an opposed flathead, might be using every spark in one cylinder or the other? Glad to hear it's running as it should.

Might actually run backwards?

The lawn mower at this time of the year, being a pretty basic machine, I'd say $50 to $75 if it looks and runs good. The snow blower looks to be at least a middle of the line machine and I'd think $250 to $300, again if it looks and runs good, maybe more. I'd also suggest looking at your local...

Dumb question but I'll ask anyway. Did you pull the filter ouf of the tank and check the tubing for cracks?

I wonder if a crankshaft seal would cause this?

That was the problem with my mower. Still had good voltage showing but no current. Ole Tarryl fixes all on Youtube has a good video on this.