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I'm not a professional. I only work on my own equipment, so I don't have near the opportunity to encounter surprises that you guys do, but I DO hate snakes. I also have a barn cat. I don't really expect him to kill snakes, but he SHOULD kill everything a snake would want to eat. He's quite the...

^ This. I had this problem once, and it took me a while, but I finally figured out that the spool was on backwards. I wasn't the one who flipped it, so it took me a while to notice it. At that point, I didn't even know that it COULD be flipped. I guess this is so that the same spool can be used...

The OP DID say that the carb, fuel filter, & fuel lines were replaced. I'd look for an obstruction in the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel line from the carb, and see if fuel flows out of the tank.

This is not my issue, and this information does me absolutely no good at all. But... this type of info is why I'm here. StarTech answered the OP's question, and a couple of more that the OP SHOULD have asked. Great response. Thanks, StarTech (and others) for providing this type of info.

That thin foam thing that goes on the outside of the paper filter... that's the pre-filter, and is supposed to be oiled. At least, on Kohler engines they're supposed to be oiled. If oiled & maintained properly*, it will make the paper filter last a long time. If over-oiled to the point that the...

A pre-filter should be oiled. A properly oiled pre-filter will catch most of the dust & dirt, and can be cleaned and re-oiled, which will prolong the life of the pleated paper main filter.

OK. I didn't know that. The shop manual for the engine on my commercial ZTR (engine DOM 2016) specifies 3600, so I thought that was still the norm. Thanks.

Doesn't pretty much everything get set to 3600 RPMs?

When I reinstalled the filter that started this thread, I used a wrench. I may have to remove the engine to get the filter off, but that's still better than a destroyed engine.

Do you still have bad compression on cyl 2? If so, have you checked the valve clearances? When you did the rebuild, did you use a new head gasket?

Ideally, I'd like for the filter to be tight enough for me to be barely able to loosen it by hand. I've found that point for automotive filters about 80% of the time. I already have 5 oil filter wrenches, but will need a 6th to fit this filter where it's located. My mower works great, but engine...

In my case, though, the filter WAS loose. The gasket was still in contact with the block, but just barely. I could move it with two fingers.

I can understand that this could happen, but the same thermal expansion & contraction occurs with automotive engines. And I've learned over the years to tighten automotive oil filters less & less, as it usually requires a wrench to get them loose. They are ALWAYS tighter when I take them off...

So... I should run a cold engine at full throttle to move the mower out of the garage to the driveway?

I've read the "Run at full throttle?" thread, but I have a couple of questions not answered there. And the thread's closed. My general approach is that it's ok to run the engine & hydros at low speed if they're cold and not under load. Is this correct? When I first start my zero turn, I let it...

Or you could remove the ethanol from a gallon or two, and use it just for winter storage. See this video.

The above oil filter was installed by hand. If this problem has only been observed when using air tools, that doesn't explain what I experienced.

Thanks.

What kind of oil filter wrench to you have that will fit a Kohler filter, and mate to a torque wrench?

So should I be using a different oil filter? If so, which one?

A couple of years ago, I moved to my childhood home, next door to my sister. It came with a 2000ish 48" Husqvarna lap-bar ZTR. It was taking me about 2 hrs for my yard, and another hr for hers. So I wanted something with a bit more capability. There are also a decent amount of slopes around...

Everything I have that doesn't get used or driven in the winter gets a Battery Tender. Better than a jump starter, as the batteries will last longer.

A cautionary tale about oil filters. I bought a used mower a little over a year ago. The engine had oil leaks at the valve covers. I fixed that and a few other things. Got it back together, changed the oil & oil filter, and used it last season. About an hour & 45 minutes per week. At the...

That's a bit surprising... the MTD P/N was on the parts list for my Cub Cadet. Thanks.

I have a Pro Z 154 with a deck belt that needs to be replaced. The parts list shows the P/N as 954-05013. When I search that P/N on cubcadet.com, I get two hits. One for that P/N, which shows as in stock, and one for 490-501-C094, which shows as the replacement for 954-05013, also in stock. The...

I'm a big believer in Battery Tenders. Through the Winter, all my mowers with batteries, my ATV, and my convertible are on Battery Tenders 24/7. A Battery Tender won't overcharge. I have much less problems in the Spring when I go to start things.

Duh... my mistake. For some reason, when you mentioned tapered bearings, I was thinking, steering knuckle bearings. You said "spindle", but it didn't register until I saw the photo you posted. Yes, those spindle nuts are really tight. I had to run my air pressure high to get my impact wrench to...

Z-Force manual... thanks. 90 ft-lbs? That seems like a lot. Do you mean 90 in-lbs? Every torque spec I've seen on this mower is spec'ed in in-lbs.

I was looking over the owner's manual, and found some of these sections. I don't remember seeing them before. I guess I should read the manual better. :) I didn't see anything on transmission removal, or spindle bearing repair. The spindle bearings look pretty simple. The transmissions... I hope...

I have pretty good mechanical knowledge, too. I've removed a Ford 289 and rebuilt it (ok, my dad and I did it). But that doesn't stop me from taking apart things I don't need to when doing something new. I can always do a job the 2nd time MUCH faster than the first. I'll consult a manual if I...

Thanks, but the service manual for my mower is not there.

Just picked up a Pro Z 100 for cheap, but it needs a few things. It's been "rode hard, and put away wet", so I want to do some fairly invasive disassembly (like engine & deck removal), but I can't find a service manual. I found an owner's manual, engine owner's manual, and an illustrated parts...