Search results

Maybe bad new solenoid...the plate is bouncing on 2 big poles instead of connecting firmly. Maybe bad new starter. You can test these parts off the tractor.

Make sure battery is fully charged. Can you turn flywheel by hand? Try it with spark plugs out. Sounds like starter pinion is bouncing on flywheel teeth.

If valves are set correctly, could be compression release has failed. Don't know what it is on Kohler...some are levers that tick a valve at low RPM, some are a funny ground camshaft. Other possibilities: Weak starter, Poor electrical connections in circuit to starter, Poor ground from battery...

Measure center to center between 2 mounting holes. If it's 30.5mm, then any cube carb from a 25cc trimmer to a Husqvarna 272 saw will fit. You need to have impulse hole match the intake impulse slot - but most are at 12 o/c. Figure out how many cc the engine is. That's a serious muffler for a...

Need the engine model #s or just guessing. Sounds like you need a primer bulb to shoot fuel into the intake. Eg: A Briggs 10T502 will never start w/o 3-5 primer shots.

https://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/briggs/82900-ms4889-0188.pdf carburetor assembly 298567

For best answer, need the model # under the seat. Eg. 917.xxxxxx Normally, they are near the starter, on the metal "floor" or metal "wall" of the chassis....one big red wire to starter, one big red wire to the battery. and 1 little wire to the key switch.

I saw a pic of an old Walbro like this. Hole had a fuel solenoid in it, which I'd bet is NLA.

52-053-71 should be carb #. Try here...http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/html/engine-specs/kohler/Kohler_Carburetor_Reference_Manual_TP-2377-E.pdf

Brake on? PTO off? Sitting in seat? Those are your 3 safety switches - one could be intermittently flaky. Ignition switch could be flaky.

It's shaped like a fuel line but looks awfully short. More like an MS180 fuel line. The impulse line will be straight. The oil line is a 90* L.

Ditto. My 1994 Craftsman FWD 22" w/ Tecumseh TVS120 is still going strong. Front tires are bald and NLA. Biggest maintenance has been rebuild carb, replace head gasket and replace drive belt.

Engine make/model will allow better answers. In general terms, a rod from a thermostat attached to the muffler controls the choke plate. As muffler heats up, choke opens more. Remove that rod and attach the choke cable to pin rotating choke plate. Will have to figure out how to bracket choke...

Search ebay - Honda OEM Engine Recoil 28400-888-040H STARTER ASSY New Old Stock NOS Buy the individual parts you need: https://www.hondapartsnation.com/oemparts/a/hpe/505ce575f870022d24bdd69c/recoil-starter

143.044500 = Tecumseh LV148EA - 334012B 750885 Cross reference site: https://www.americanmowerandsaw.com/sears-to-tecumseh-cross

Search web 917.388531 Searsparts direct comes up Look around for parts and find: Engine Air Filter 35066 Also see that engine is Craftsman 143044500 tecumseh engine

Before I had any carb tools, I did this with a dremel cutoff wheel: Make the carb conform to you!

We need the mower model #. Something like 917.388370. Or the Sears engine model #... eg: 143.006200

Hope you get to feeling better soon!

Good job, AVB. How's southern TN doing?

If you can't see relevant part #s on the IPL, ask on opeforum or arboristsite. Someone will have done it.

PHOTOBUCKET sign obscures coil. Wire goes on tab, then routed in a safe manner to switch. There may be notches or holes that show the route. Pull the pin that the switch rotates around. Look for a metal flat spring under switch - if wire is connected to that spring, when switch is rotated, metal...

Give that saw a good air compressor blow off. Near the red switch - should be 1 or 2 wires from the coil. Find 16 or 18 gauge wires(s) coming off coil and follow. They may go down below switch - under the retaining pin. When switch is pushed down - a flat band spring will contact 2 wires or 1...

I don't have this saw. If you post pics of the parts and the handle area near the choke, we can figure it out. In the kill position, metal must touch metal at the switch. It's usually a contact spring connecting 2 wires from the coil.

http://vintagemachinery.org/Craftsman/manufacturers.aspx Murray-AMF or Noma. I have the same RER w/ a Tecumseh TVM220.

This fellow said "It just doesn't cut good".

Welcome. Your location is important to narrow down a seller. Other options are looking on craigslist or facebook marketplace.

If Bert doesn't know, dunno who will. LOL Has similar looks to 422700 genre Opposed Twins: 394808 and 497596 - 16 tooth gear Except mount plate is vertical, not horizontal

Location under user name at the left of a post would be helpful.

I like the improvement....Click on a post image and have a close X, rather than use browser back arrow.

Ditto on putting a time/date stamp on each post.

Yeah, CL and FB are good for engine stuff. Eg:

On a 1994 Craftsman SP mower. I read a list that it was a TVS120 and ordered head gasket 32643. Way too small. Found out later on Sears IPL that it needs gasket 36477. Either seller listed gasket incorrectly or engine isn't a TVS120. Anybody have a cross reference - Tecumseh to Sears engine...

Briggs 422707 18hp Opposed Twin in Craftsman lawn tractor ~ 1989 model. Got a new 3 lead solenoid cuz I was having hard crank issues and solenoid looked old and worn.. Briggs OEM 4441931 solenoid. Key switch to start gives a nice solenoid thunk but no starter action. Got 12.7v on battery side...

Saw is from 2002. Light duty - sawing 2 cords per year. Starts and idles well. Bogs down on throttle up and with any load on 18" bar/chain. Compression is 75 PSI. Added 10 drops 90wt gear oil to chamber and got 95 PSI. Should it be 110 - 130 PSI? Does this sound like cylinder walls scored and/or...