The engine must have a steel key which I think was a very bad idea for the very problem you outline. The soft key B&S used for ever until recently would not have damaged either. The several 33 series engines I have had did have a soft key but I hear they are recommending hard keys now. The...
Maybe but unless one figures they are more knowledgeable than the engineers who designed and built the engine, best stick with their recommended procedure.
Walt Conner
Welcome, I would suspect the carb float needle may be leaking contaminating the oil causing it to be over full. Check to see if there is a gas smell to the oil, drain and refill to proper level with new oil if so, clean carb and replace float needle OR add a gas line shut off valve and use when...
"Customer can't afford the repair. "
I would not recommend it but I know of one case where the person put 2 head gaskets on lowering the compression enough the starter would turn the engine, He said he could not tell any difference in performance. Besides efficiency the head gasket problem...
Spark plug looks like excess oil burning and gas generally contaminates oil by the carb float needle leaking gas which goes into the cylinder and from there into the oil. Replace carb float needle AND add a gas line shut off valve and use it when engine is not running.
That oil leak looks like...
Probably head gasket but that is a fairly old engine so could be rings. It is basically am oversized 31 series engine, 31 series very common with rating from 16.5 to 20-21 hp and suffers same valve guide and head gasket issues.
Walt Conner
This a single cylinder engine and as I said, the counter balance is more likely, very unusual for the rod to knock, usually they just throw under those circumstances, not knock.
Walt Conner
Wait a minute! IF you did what you said, you did NOT do my test and I do not understand the results you got. That does no indicate bad Kill Hire Harness unless there was a bad connection to diode and you moving Kill Wire harness made temp connection. I said disconnect Kill Wire from EACH coil...
It could be the coil however B&S coils are very reliable and the odds are a diode as I said. The test I told you will tell. The diode is located in the wiring harness leading from the coils to the terminal connecting wire to the ignition switch. Why don't you just do the test?
Walt Conner
Most likely it is a bad diode in the Kill Wire circuit. You can check by disconnecting both kill wires from the connection on each individual coil. If both have spark now, that is the problem. Be aware that if you start the engine, you will need a different way of stopping it, rely on carb...
Is it running on both cylinders? Doubt it. Pull one plug wire and see if it starts OK, if it does replace that one and remove the other, try starting. IF it does not start on one of the cylinders, remove valve cover of that cylinder and check the push rods, are they in place? Reply back.
Walt...
The proper puller is cheap, a lot cheaper than a new engine. I have photo of using the pry and hit method resulting in hole in thin casting area under the flywheel as mentioned above by StarTech - not worth the chance and you can make your own puller for that matter.
Walt Conner
It is fairly common for this engine to have a cylinder head gasket leak but not to the outside, inside to the push rod gallery. It is common for it to have a sump gasket leak to the outside under the right cylinder head as you are facing the cylinder heads.
Walt Conner
These engines are notorious for sump gasket leak under the right hand cylinder when facing the cylinder heads. Good advice above on checking for sure where the leak is. IF sump leak, expensive gasket set to fix ~ $30 - $35. I can send you a Service Manual IF you like, address below, put in...
StarTech - " even had one engine's heads to go NLA then to a pair and finally when a I got the one head that I was needing it was double in price."
Seems I offered you a way to salvage heads in another Thread which you apparently were not interested in.
Walt Conner
As I said, I share my repairs and one furnished to me is actually welding in the case of V twins, I guess it might work one singles as well, never tried it on any. IF Interested, Email below, put in proper format.
Walt Conner
wconner5@frontier.com
Well I think I said that guides were not replaceable and as I said, I have never seen a worn out guide in all the rebuilds I have done of B&S Intek OHV engines. I was being facetious when I remarked about replacing them.
Also, I have never replaced a head because of a slipped valve guide. I...
The problem with these engines has been valve guides slipping mostly due to disregard of the cooling system not due to wear. I have never replaced a valve guide due to wear on an Intek, Actually, valve guides are not a replacement part for these engines. Believe me, side thrust was not a...
"Regular Intek is a standard aluminum bore homeowner motor. "
I have not seen this to be the case. I ended my active repair career rebuilding engines for a wide variety of clients including one commercial shop and at that time I never saw an Intek engine of size for a riding mower with an...
On the heads I have had the rocker arm did not contact the retainers before contacting the valve stem end when they did not have caps. The part numbers of components in heads with and without caps are the same. I think the prime reason for adding caps was to reduce wear and increase time between...
Wasn't satisfied with the answers on the other forum huh? We tried to tell you that disc has nothing to do with driving force, it only takes up space and holds the components in place and keeps them from rattling against each other. If you put enough disks in there to lock the two components...
Missing caps will have no affect, some were issued with none. Rocker Arm will hit the top of valve steam where the cap would be. Aluminum push rod if shorter will only be by thousandths of an inch and will NOT affect the amount opening, that will depend on the cam shaft lobe. Both valves...
Well those couple million engines which you say didn't have that compression release mechanism did have compression release provisions in the form of the "Easy Spin" cam grind which held the Intake Valve slightly open well into the compression stroke relieving compression. Even newer OHV engines...
"Most mowers will start and run without a blade."
Not in my experience with vertical shaft engines and even blade slippage may make them very difficult as said above they depend on blade for momentum. EPA requirements have caused Mfgs. to run very lean, slight over sizing of low speed jet will...
Not likely, these engines seldom have a valve lash problem and that is usually after someone did a valve job and flubbed it. More likely a loose valve seat, common with these engines. IF it is a valve seat, you can stake it back in place provided it has not wallowed out the block casting.
Walt...
I don't remember what the choke plate looks like on that engine but I have ones which had 2 holes in the choke plate. I blocked one of them which solved the excess cranking problem. Beware of running the starter too long, as it will cause over heating of winding reducing starting torque. I think...
IF you are talking about the remote throttle control lever, are you sure it is adjusted correctly? Governor spring in the correct tension? Might want to consult your Service Manual a little more.
Walt Conner
As said above, Assuming you have reconnected the linkages you removed correctly, IF you have adjusted the static governor setting and still no governor control, then time to go inside as you have an internal governor problem. I can send you a Service Manual IF you like. Address below, put in...
Well I have been out of the loop for some time and didn't even know there was such a thing as an MTV brand Engine. Model 4P90HU
A friend who is a very experience tech has one which will only start and run if he holds his hand over the carb intake. He says he has cleaned the carb using an Ultra...