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If he has any popping out of the muffler or carb, cam and or ignition timing and or a good vacuum leak could be going on. Seeing this is running super hot, a fat vacuum leak is suspect to me. Get something that burns. Spray around all areas looking for leaks.

Was the new carb an OEM Briggs or some fancy new Amazon Gambler Series?

Did you lap the head and area on the block where the gaskets sits? Or just clean her up a bit a toss on a gasket? Every head I've pulled is not flat. Also do a 3 step torque on the head bolts.

Are your main jets the proper size and or possibly in the right spot? Run the engine with the choke say 50% ON. See if the extra fuel cools the hot cyls down. Enough choke to just start to stumble, for temp testing only. For an engine that hot, the emulsion tube might be plugged up as well...

Again the same with V-8's. One fuel pump and 8 injectors all rated the same fuel volume. Every cyl will have a different air/fuel ratio.

Don't think it's normal but we need some word to talk about it. Some carbs have 2 different main jet sizes. Like the ol' Nikki Six carbs I think that fit twin engines. You might have Chinese plugs or one not firing 100%. Many many variables. Does your carb have two different main jet sizes?

Waste of time and money. Millions of mowers out there don't even have oil filters. You want the engine to warm as fast as possible, be it car, truck or mower. These are low rpm Diesel like engines. If you did add a cooler you will risk losing an oil line like I DID on a new Jeep engine. My CJ-7...

There is not one engine out there that multiple cyls run at the same temp. Go scan a V-8 and report back. And those mostly are injected supposed to be spraying the same volume of fuel and so on. Casting thicknesses and many more.......

Fix the gasket leak. All this probably started from over heating and lack of oil.

NO. You need a new OEM fan blade or flywheel. What ever your model takes. These air cooled engines heat up in short order, as in 1-2 minutes. Summer 100 degree temps quicken this. Fix the mower right, sell it DIVULGING it has items need fixing or hire a lawn crew. All this running without a...

Not seeing any issue. Have you ever cleaned the cooling fins and block area? Pretty sure that is a must-do. Most of these engines are air cooled.

Fuel hoses degrade from the inside out. Can the other way too. Might have trash in the fuel tank. Dirt dobbers, grass, leaves and junk sinking to the bottom. Will plug up the tank outlet port causing intermittent fueling issues like you are seeing. Flush the tank and blow out with compressed...

Youtube Farmer Tech or what ever his screen name is tested (Heet) alcohol and many others on removing water. Moral of that story was save your money cause nothing removed the water. They are to disperse the water and allow it to put up into carbs for example and burn off. Use a new can, no...

They are not going to be 100% the same temp. Especially when both cyls have different compression and blowby for example. Valves might not be sealing 100% and many other factors. Sounds as cyl 2 is getting less fuel than 1. Leaner is meaner was the old wordage. Intake ports are not identical.

How are you checking the temp? What is being used?

It's about the "type" of can the fuel was in. Much as I hate to say but the new plastic "safety" cans are better than the old vented style. These new cans keep the fuel fresher. That and I use Sta-Bil so I don't have to recall how old it was.

Going with filthy fuel tank, deteriorated fuel line, water in the gas, never performed a valve adjustment, plugged air filter, Champion spark plug LOL and many more. How old is the fuel? Weak spark? Flywheel key slash hit something with the blade?

Amen to this. You MUST LOAD all electrical circuits while testing. Meaning you need a big gap to force the coil to make all the spark it can. A simple Christmas light tells you nothing about the strength of the spark.

No surprise about this. Snapper perfected its recipe years ago. Stuck with it for decades because back THEN, they made top shelf mowers.

And those VRSLA batteries normally do not like dumping large doses of current. As in turning a starter over. Wrong battery for this application. Need a starting battery in a starting application. Oils and such are formulated the same way.

Do it the Tommy Chong method. Garden hose and suck it out with your mouth.

More like it would be records of missed oil changes and neglected cooling fins just to name 2 of many more.

I absolutely love Nikki's. People push a perfectly good mower to the curb or sell for pennies on the buck. Simple carb clean and some gaskets later. Ol' girl is running like a top. Install an inline fuel shut off valve. Use it when not mowing. Now fix your carb needle and seat as others...

Use fuel stabilizer year round. Why? Because I forgot what I had for dinner last night. How old was this fuel??? Never have to worry about it again. Starts on the first pull isn't bad either.

Do you have spark, air, compression and fuel? Find out which you are lacking. Or hire a lawn crew for your 1500sf lawn. Much easier this way. You sit on the couch sipping on a cold one. Grass gets mowed. All in the hot summer as you toss on a blankey watching the big game.

Do you have spark at the plug and fuel AT the carb inlet? If you have those look for a dirty carb.

I'll take every one of those at 300 bucks. Nice score at 50. That is the king of all push mowers. Compare that to the new battery jobs LOL.

A new Chinese carb might be 15 bucks. Not a new OEM JD.

How do you get a mower to back up with both front wheels "elevated"? What is 2H? Two hours? No need to abbreviate guy. Pushing keys on a keyboard doesn't cost anything. Read to yourself what you wrote to us. I'm lost......... Oh and welcome to the BEST mower forum on the net.

Take a cell phone picture prior to messing with the carb next time. FN mower guy in that video needs a tripod.

Download your engine manual. Read it. Look for the scheduled maintenance page. Look for cleaning cooling fins, de-carbonizing the cylinder/s and changing the oil.

2 amps or less for these small mower batteries.

I asked three local mower shops this very same question. They all said not us....... They said throw them in the garbage and get a longer lasting gas mower.

Do tell......

This is plenty. Also don't buy any other brand other than Battery Tender. I did and threw a few away from not working. Tried to save a couple bucks. Ended up costing more in the long run. Battery Tenders have never failed me.

Take the battery to an auto parts store. They will check it for free. They can fail at any time. Nice work on keeping a maintainer on it. Also remove the spark plug/s. Try cranking it over. Engine should rotate like a top. Shot in the dark, remove the oil dipstick. Smell for fuel. Could be...

Should be like 0.004" or 0.006", not 0.0004. Possible typo?? Makes a difference.

Mulching spreads weeds. Chokes the turf of water and nutrients. Long story is mulching came about as another way to sell a mower. Is it better than bagging? No. Bagging lifts the grass up for a better cut slash look. And those mulched clippings don't break down either. As in totally removed from...

Could be. I always use fuel stabilizer. Why? I forget how old my fuel is. Don't have to worry about old fuel anymore. My fuel doesn't get gummed up.

Supertech SAE 30w was or is rated at SG. Full of zinc and wonder no wear stuff. It's actually called off-highway oil.

All mine get cooked weekly. Still work like a new one. Matter of fact, this weekend, be doing some mo' cookin'. Follow your engine and or mower manuals for max revs.

Most pushers are 21" rated but not actually 21 or 22. They are say 20 and 3/4 or 7/8" for example. So slow down with the new buzz term of the day of blade tip speed. The grass police won't be by to arrest you.

3600 revs. Best cutting/bagging /mulching, best cooling and best lubrication. End of message.

That YOU picked up on. Reread what you typed and what I typed again. Let it fester a bit.

Usually, if it smokes on startup, it's valve seals and or guides. Smokes all the time, rings. Also be over filled with oil and several other tricks.

Yours and everyone else's engine manual states to de-carbon the cylinder/s and valves at x amount of time. They put it right next to cleaning the cooling fins YEARLY if not more often.

RTV? People, stop using RTV. They make proper gaskets that purposely fit your application. I so dislike tearing into someone else's mess having to dig all that silicone out. Just doubled the labor time. What you should do is lap that and every removed head and cyl deck surface prior to...