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In the snowmobile world, to get a clutch off a tapered shaft would have you turn the sled on its side with the clutch up and center bolt removed. Fill the cavity with oil about 7/8ths full, grease the threads of the bolt, screw it back in as tight as it will go and smack the bolt head with a...

Acetone and ATF. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/acetone-and-atf.230641/page-2

Ya check the tank vent?

One size fits all, eh? This the only thing you know?

What you want is Fugitive Glue, sometimes called Tack Snot or Booger Glue. It's the same stuff they use to place credit cards on the paper. It dries tacky, not sticky. Pulls right off.

Sounds obsessive.....

Yeah....that'll help......🙄

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CP5PDS8H/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWw

Lesson 1....Do what the respondent asks. Don't go off on some tangent as that just aggravates the guy/gal wanting to help.

Damn little amps needed to crank a no compression engine. Much more amps required to spin one with compression....hence engines that have an auto compression release. Jumper the battery with another known good battery....use your car, truck, tractor....anything to provide more capacity. That...

Pull plug check for spark. Drip a few drops of gas in the plug hole, insert plug and see if it tries to fire.

Ever test the battery? Charging a battery with sketchy internals does nothing.

The brass circle is a sintered bronze air filter.

Win is the King reporting app....

The go-to for UL use.

With zero evidence to support. Show me the SAE report.....

Bullshit. Every piece of equipment 40+ years old has already been converted to bunaN or other ethanol proof materials.

The fuel "pump" is a crankcase pressure driven diaphragm pump. The diaphragm is torn and oil is making it's way past.

Bullshit. Every piece of equipment 4)+ years old has already been converted to bunaN or other ethanol proof materials. Prove your "corrosion" story with links to SAE reports.

"Create" ....science matters and this isn't it.

...and your responsibility to provide those SAE links to prove your contention. Not taking info or opinion from Billy Bob's gasoline stories.

Totally unnecessary unless you are running equipment more than 40+ years old whose rubber components have not been changed to Buna N or hoses made in the stone age. And every new piece of gas powered vehicle has been changed over since at least 1979, 3 years after ethanol was re-introduced (used...

https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2022-01-0486/ Again, no to "stabilizers" unless you insist on letting the fuel sit for over 12 months....unlikely in most all cases.

No.

Bullshit. Stop spreading crap. The effective compression ratio of any utility two stroke is around 6 to 7 to one, no where near detonation territory and added octane only has the effect of draining your bank account faster. Get an education...... http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part1/

In concentrations above 30%, ethanol will act as a cylinder wall oil wash and accelerate wear. By now all modern engines are compatible with 10 and 15% ethanol. In the 70s raced a Hirth powered 634cc Arctic Cat on 100% methanol. That crap would give you a really bad headache if you didn't wear a...

SAE report.... Assessment of the Effectiveness of Three Aftermarket Gasoline Fuel Stabilizers in Preventing Gum Formation and Loss of Oxidation Stability 2022-01-0486 Fuel stabilizers have long been marketed to consumers to prevent oxidation and gum...

Precisely. When you "change" auto trans fluid you can't get it all in the first go because there is so much left in the converter. Yeah, a different type of hydraulic but the principle remains. If it really bothers you that much change the fluid again in a month or so. 🤔

Since they didn't I will.....just what I'd do not gospel. Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone....yeah, they don't mix but the acetone helps pull the ATF down the shaft. https://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/printthread/Board/2/main/75235/type/thread The above link was...

Drilled out jets? 🤫🙄

Maybe on the right track....bought an edger from a guy that said it wouldn't run. $5 later it's on the way home. First checked the valve lash.....the smaller the engine the more sensitive they are to correct setup. Forget what the lash was but adjusted the engine and would start on first pull...

Run away.

For all of you who have mowers that have this electronic module (XT1, XT2, and several others....and may apply to other modules that use a plastic start stop key...), you'll be pleased to note that the key tip has a small magnet that pulls in a reed switch so that the entire mower functions...

NGK (8328) LB01EP Spark Plug Cap , Black Screws on to the existing wire.

Duh...

Is your carbon wet or dry....difference between oil and excess fuel.

Why if they're all 65psi? 🤫

Stick the plugs back in the caps and ground them.....give the spark somewhere t go.....

Continental aircraft engines are good down to 40# per the mfg. 65 is not spectacular but is probably much higher when running. Should run.

Precisely.

Lock nut for a deck welded nut....

Rings that have seated and were more effective at the beginning of service life. As the engine ages the rings will wear more and allow just that scant bit of oil to seep past when not running. On startup the combustion gasses pressurize the rings from the piston side and press them into the...

These are so simple to work on.....two long screws hold the whole thing together. If you decide to take it apart just take a permanent marker and draw a line down the case from one end to the other on just one side.... makes reassembly easier. It's not rocket science....bet you can do this, but...

Bet these are plain oilite bearings that are running dry initially when cold until they warm up and exude what remaining oil there is. Could be wrong, tho. In which case oil would be a better bet. Oilite is a sintered metal that is oil impregnated at the factory....but it's not permanent.

Have you ever replaced the air filter? If you unlatch the filter housing and lift the filter up does the surging stop? Bad batch of filters years ago had a flame retardant sprayed on. Yeah....it stopped flames but also severely restricted airflow.

Yes. It does. Supposed to have some "play".

I love the way everyone evaluates a problem.....don't look at the condition, just replace it. Starters last a looooong time...brushes, commutators, and lubrication don't. I've rebuilt several that just needed the brushes replaced, commutator cleaned, and inside cleaned. Sparse lubrication is...

Horizontal V twins smoke a bit on startup...it's just the way they are. I wouldn't do anything unless and until it makes smoke all the time. And it's just a couple of drops getting by the rings while sitting.....nice thin, heated oil. Ever watch a radial engine start up? Same principle.

That's the problem with not understanding physics.....it acts over milliseconds not instantaneously. The difference between letting the clutch out slowly or just dumping it. But I guess if all you've ever experienced is an automatic that makes no sense either.