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After looking at the provided link from Rivets, I agree that it is probably a HH70 instead of a HH170. There apparently are a horizontal and a vertical air filter designs. Hammermech also points out that a reverse feature was available. I will try to get pictures of the carb,

I wrote it down as as a HH170 -140055E. The tiller is so old it does not show up in Ariens parts. (901006) The motor is cast iron, horizontal shaft, and has a counter-rotating output shaft run off the camshaft. This output is used to reverse the tines when engaged. The air cleaner is mounted...

I am helping an elderly gentleman work on an old Ariens Tiller. It has a HH170 Tecumseh engine. Is there a diagram that shows the proper placement of the governor springs on the carb? The tiller is a model 901006 and the caeb is a 632201.

The shaft is totally enclosed and has no access when the tiller is assembled. I am going to see if I can make some type of access where the shaft can be sprayed without disassembly of the motor from the transmission. I do have some Fluid Film that I will use. Thanks for the comments.

I am working on a Ariens tiller. The tiller has a dog clutch that slides on a splined shaft that engages the tines rotation.. The drive part of the clutch is hooked to linkage that is hand operated through linkage. With time the splined shaft rusts and will not allow the clutch to move along the...

I would buy a ignition/spark plug tester. It hooks in line with your plug and tells you if you have spark. The tester is about 10 bucks or less. Test it when it will not start or hit it with a shot of starting fluid. This should indicate whether it is ignition or fuel problem.

I finally found the problem. The throttle and choke linkages were rubbing and not allowing the govenor to work correctly.

Thanks for the reply. Yes this is the bearing in question however I still can not get it to budge. I have tried to press the bearing down from the top through the pulley. I then soaked the top of the bearing with penetrating oil and let it set over night. It would not budge. I then heated the...

I had some bearing wear on my mower deck bearings. The jackshaft bearing has some play in it. I can not see how to disassemble it. It appears that the needle bearing stub shaft is welded to the pivot arm. This mower has the earlier style deck on it with a serial number less than 420000. Any...

The area I took out for the wire was about 1/4 sq. inch so I don't think it will affect cooling. Just enough area to allow for the wire and tape. I spent an hour or so looking for the screw size with no success. I bought some M6 screws in hope they would fit have not tried them yet.

I looked at everything and found two disturbing things. 1.) there was a raw place in the wire that goes from the coil to the igniter. Where the wire goes by the engine shroud it was raw. There was a grommet there but no room for the igniter wire. I put heat shrink and tape over the bare place. I...

I have already tried starting fluid when the motor was hot and would not start. It made no difference. First is a new plug, then I am going to look at coil, igniter and flywheel. I will try to troubleshoot electrical components with an Ohm meter, I watched a video on a guy with a 170 that would...

I was given a JD 165 with a Kawasaki FB460V engine. The mower is little hard to start but runs fine until it gets hot and you shut it off. Yesterday was mowing for 25 minutes and the fuel light came on. I filled the tank and the mower would not restart. Also a month ago ran out of fuel and mower...

My father has a L110 mower that will barely pull itself forward. It sounds like the transaxle is in need of repair or replacement. It has the Torq Tuff K46AW transaxle. He will give me the mower. In today's economy is it worthwhile to attempt a repair? I feel reasonably sure I can do the work...

Thank You for your efforts toddsyr. That is it. The problem was the seat safety switch. It was very erratic in making/breaking contact. If you checked it with an ohm meter you thought it was ok but the slightest wiggle it make contact and caused the engine to miss or quit.

The mower/engine now will die every time I engage the blades. The switch for the electric blade clutch has two wire connectors plugged into it. One has three wires and the second 2 wires. If I unplug the two wire connector the blades will engage when I throw the switch. The two wires are gray...

I need the WD for a 170 that was made in the 1990 to 1992 time frame. My model number has no "D" in it. My mower has a 38" deck with a 14HP Kawasaki engine.

I started the mowing season by replacing the transaxle drive belt. During that job, the gas tank was removed, steering was unbolted, mower deck removed ETC. The top bushing for the steering column was dislocated so I had to remove some wiring to to put the top bushing back in place. Now the...

I have written a few posts on my Hoinda GVC 160A problems. The carb needle valve will not shut the fuel off from the bowl . Last fall after many years of service the carb was leaking and the parts were equal to a new carb. I get gas flowing out the main jet of the carb. I first replaced the carb...

I am working through some problems with this mower. GVC 160A Replaced carb (OEM Honda -315) and needle valve would not shut off the fuel into carb. I put in a different float with an adjustable float level. Now the mower seems to run fine until you shut it off. After warm-up and shut the mower...

I have a Honda GVC160A S3H motor with BB65E carburetor. Last fall I noticed some black smoke when the engine speed up under load. Later the motor quit and the carb was leaking gas out the air filter. The gas was coming through the main jet. I removed the carb and disassembled. Did not see...