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I gotta get some of that marine grade. I didn't know about that, sounds great. Thanks!

I would say the hole in the middle. That way the spring pulls the pulley to the right, tensioning the belt.

Of course you know it's back, or you couldn't see this! I was getting worried about this site. Glad to see it back up.

Lowe's, Home Depot, and Ace Hardware should all have metric. I don't know if they'll have an M8 that's 5mm long. I'd use a cutoff wheel rather than a grinder.

Good, just had to check...

Now we're getting somewhere!

I was commenting that the fuel line may be factory formed, leading to how tight it's been since new. I was not talking about fuel injection. Auto Doc suggested that the fuel line could be factory formed.

Are the 2 connectors in the upper right of your pic the VR wires? They look questionable to me. Are they good connections?

I'd say we need to look at the input voltage to the regulator, if the ground is good. Hopefully someone who is more familiar with that engine will speak up, but it's gotta be the yellow or red wire going to the VR. I'd check voltage on both of them, with engine running. One should be...

Are you wetting the needle?

Thanks. That's about what I figured with the ground wire/case thing, but those were all I noticed from the picture. So, I agree, trace that gray wire. If you have a voltmeter, check resistance to ground.

I would check to see if I can make the noise by moving the blade with engine OFF, clutch disengaged. That should be easy enough to tell. Some kind of debris could have kicked up into that area and bent something... Something down there could have come loose also. Check all the pulleys to see...

Thanks for the clarification.

So, are you saying you changed the oil again? Have you done anything to check the carb needle/seat? That new carb could be leaking and continuing to cause problems.

What's that broken off white wire in the connector under the VR? The VR looks a bit twisted in relation to the mount point. If that how the original was? Is the case of the VR metal, or plastic? It looks like the connector on that gray wire is touching the outside edge. Hmmm.

That may be it, he says it's been like this since new.

First, if you hydro locked after changing the carb, the carb could have a problem. If the hydro lock was caused by the previous carb, fine, but if it was the new one, you need to address that. A simple way to test is with a transparent fuel line attached to the carb, with the other end held...

Did your carb have a broken spring, or the camshaft. You said you replaced camshaft, why?

Sounds like it's tighter than it is hard. If you get the old filter removed, you may find it very hard to install the new one...

If the line is so hard you can't remove the filter, I'd replace it. As Slomo said, they deteriorate from the inside out.

That's not nearly as exciting as some of the flaming techniques I've seen video of. It does sound safer, and effective.

I can usually pry it loose with a screwdriver. If not, I'd cut it loose and replace the fuel line.

I agree and I just did that today on one of mine.

Well, I replaced the carb, and learned some about the tool. I'll play with the old carb and have it for a spare. That works for me.

So, I tried again on the replacement carb. I wet the needle and seat and tested with 7 psi. It held for 45 minutes before I quit. Left that out yesterday.

In my experience, fuel leaking from primer bulb is coming from a cracked primer bulb.

So, I put in the new carb, and removed some panels to clean the cooling fins. It wasn't too bad, there were some leaves and dirt in there, but it's clean now Slomo.

What do you get if you pull the fuel line off the carb? Does it flow freely, or does it drip? You've done a bunch with the carb, but haven't said anything about fuel lines/tank.

I don't know how much pressure, but it sure swells up those plastic fuel cans. Got my new carb. Tested inverted, after 10 minutes or so at 5psi, I could see I was losing some pressure. I remember someone said needle needs to be wet, so I pulled the bowl, wet the needle and seat, and tried...

Thanks for letting us know. The light bulb testers don't require much to set them off. It's a clue, when it doesn't light up when the tester is connected to plug wire then spark plug(installed or grounded, but does if connected to wire and ground. Wired through the plug, it has to actually...

Right. Got it. I will test on a spare carb. Thanks.

I will try it. Thanks, I should have thought of flitz.

Thanks. I tried cleaning with plastic brushes from a carb cleaning tool. If I had a skinny enough pencil eraser... I've ordered a carb, and I already have the one I pulled off the other mower, so I've got spare parts. This one works fine, it just leaks at the bowl seal.

So, coming back to this guy... I redid the belts, battery was dead, ran out of time. My brother tried charging the battery and had no luck. I went back and brought a good battery. Since the machine had hydrolocked, I changed the oil before trying to start. It did not turn the motor or click...

I feel like the belts stretch eventually, but have heard they don't. They definitely wear, and become looser. Is there an idler or tension pulley? Is it working? There's usually a spring pulling on the pulley to provide tension. What do the pulley's look like? Some are plastic and wear out.

So, what happens when you turn the key? Does it turn over? If not, electrical. Check safety switches. If you bought it new, you should know about them. Make sure battery is connected properly. Check voltage at solenoid. There is a terminal on solenoid that goes straight to battery, the...

It's a CRAFTSMAN 247.290001, but I'm really trying to learn here, rather than get too deep into this machine. I had 2 of them, and will replace the carb on this one. I appreciate the info on seats, just never saw one of these seats that looked replaceable. This one looks straight brass. I'm...

Thanks. What's best for cleaning that seat?

Makes sense. If it's replaceable is it like the main jet in the center and unscrews? I don't think I've seen one like that, but I wasn't looking for it either.

The seat was not replaced. How do you do it?

Thanks, I should have know the needle needs to be wet. It still failed the second test. I had 2 of these mowers, and replaced the carb on the other. I will replace this one, I don't want it contaminating the oil.

After about 20 minutes total, the fuel level has dropped 2 inches. So my float leaks a bit, at least with inverted carb. I don't know how hard it compresses the spring with the float in a full bowl, in comparison to inverted carb. As I said earlier, I'm not really having trouble with the...

Ok, I removed the carb and bowl. I cleaned the needle and seat. I reassembled needle and float, inverted, hooked up pressure tester, and gave it 5lbs. I can see the needle slowly moving down. The needle has a spring between it and the float. If I press on the float, compressing the spring...

Yes Slomo, it's best to fix the safety switch. In my case, it's a safety switch on the chute, to make sure it's installed, I guess. The plastic chute stretched, and doesn't reliably engage switch. I am willing to accept this risk on my machine.:). If the plunger is pressed, hopefully it is...

I don't know about your machine, but many have safety switches on the bag/chute. They often don't line up properly after some time. I've had to disable a couple that wouldn't work reliably. Check for switch wires/plungers, where the bag/chute connects.

Pull fuel line at carb, check for free flow. post engine model #, this will help the experts help you.

Thanks.

You invert for testing dry? If bowl is full, should close valve without inverting, right? Is the W for walbro?

What type of spark checker? Have you checked both cylinders to see if there's a difference? How do the plugs look? Do you have history with this machine, or is this machine "new" to you? If you have history, did this problem just show up after the machine laid up for the winter? Looking for...

I saw this on Amazon and bought it, after seeing many here recommending pressure testing carbs. It came with no instructions. I searched online but haven't found it yet. I can see how to use it to test for leaking float valve. Easy enough, hook up to fuel inlet on carb, apply pressure(turn on...