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What is the model/engine model number? What amperage fuse is blowing?

You may be able to fish out the pickup from the tank, without removing those fittings. There is often a hose from that fitting to the pickup. Look in the tank, and use a pickup tool to fish it out. There's some kind of filter on it you can clean, and there may be a check valve you can also clean.

Looking good!

You're welcome, good luck. Let us know how it goes.

While you're at it, I still don't know for sure what the status is, and have reviewed both threads on this mower. Have you jump started with a good battery? If so, does it run? If not, check fuel system. That's what keeps it from running so much of the time. Pull fuel line at carb, check...

Yes it is.

I don't have a clue what it means. I was hoping for some more help to show up.

It has happened to me also. If choke is on, the spray doesn't get far, and may dissipate before you crank it. I use starting fluid for testing, but don't trust it.

Don't forget to check the oil and smell for gas.

Sure, if it's an old battery. Some of the service manuals are for an engine family. I had a Kohler engine like that where the manual implied there was an acr, but I was told by people who should know, there was none. So, new starter/solenoid last year, how do the connections look? You can...

Where is the spark plug from? I hear there's a lot of clone plugs that aren't very good. Most recommend buying from local auto parts store. You replaced carb, is it running about the right RPM? The governor may need a bit of adjustment to get the throttle right. Are the carb mounting gaskets...

It's slow, but seems to be turning over fine. Did you check if the oil smells like gas, and if the level is right? Will it run at all? I wasn't sure based on your first post. Have you cleaned the battery, solenoid and starter connections?

You replaced the carb, what about fuel filter and lines? Have you checked fuel flow? Fuel lines break down on the inside, so you don't see it. If there's a fuel pump, what about the vacuum line?

How did you check for spark? If you don't have a gap spark tester, I would pull the plug, hook it up, ground it, and crank the engine. If no spark, try unhooking kill wire from coil. Where is the plug from? I hear there are many clone plugs out there that are no good. Buy from local auto...

Looking at the wiring diagram, the 7.5 amp fuse is on the safety circuit. It may be a problem with that switch, but if it isn't, look into the safety switches and wiring. You could have a short in there. If you turn on the key with pressure on the seat, and activate the PTO, does it make a...

Or, are you saying you jump between the 2 big terminals(battery, starter) on the solenoid, it turns over? Which of the two are you doing?

Good news, thanks for the update!

There are reasonably priced tachs that just use a wire you wrap around the plug wire. It's not the most accurate thing, but will get you in the ballpark. Here's the one I have, it's not great, but it's cheap and gives a decent reading...

It's progress anyhow. Double check the fuel lines, if the prime was wrong when you got it, it might not be the only thing... If fresh gas doesn't work, check for spark. Pull the plug, connect it and ground it, and crank the motor. Do it in the shade and see what the spark is like. The light...

If tightening the connections help, you probably need to clean them. Glad to hear you're working. BTW, that's a wild looking machine.

We could use some more information. Model number would help. Also could use some more description of the problem. It the engine not turning over? Have you tried jumping direct from battery to starter? Have you done anything to check the solenoid? Were you doing weeding off the mower, and...

Ok, I reviewed the thread. You've got fuel flow, and engine running, then dying. When you emptied the tank, did you do anything to remove crud from the tank? When it quit running well, did you pull the fuel line and check flow? Crud in the tank can do exactly what you're describing. In one...

Great news, thanks for updating.

I got the Stens that were recommended.

Does the PTO switch engage the blades? Silly question, but is the parking brake on? What model? I run a 50" Magnum.

Thanks for the clarification.

Stupid question, but I gotta ask. Is this one of the mowers where full throttle applies the choke? If not, check linkages to make sure nothing funny happens pushing that throttle to full. It's odd that it runs fine at almost full, bogs at full. I haven't done much with Nikki carbs besides...

Yes, disconnect is to test. It is to eliminate a blocked carb from the equation. If fuel flows from pump, check at carb, then check inside carb. Remove bowl, check for fuel, check float, clear passages. From the picture, I'd replace the filter, and probably fuel lines, but I have plenty of...

Thank you for the update!

I reviewed the posts and don't see if you checked spark. Pull plug, ground it, and crank the motor. Do it in the shade. Make sure you do whatever needs to be done to satisfy safety switches. Seat switch, neutral, put brake on, etc.

Make sure fuel will flow thru the filter, or replace it. You can test the pump, disconnect from carb and crank the engine.

Agreed! That's a quick and easy check to make sure.

How well does it flow to the carb? It sounds like you blew from filter to tank, how is it going the other way? If it flows freely to the carb, I'd pull the carb and bowl, and check flow through the float valve. Since you have it opened up, I'd blow out the carb passages.

That sounds decent, if you like the mower otherwise... Best of luck to you...

That's a heck of a mower! Welcome!

Good to hear your key is fine. Is the spark tester a gap tester, or a light bulb? The light bulb is not a good test. A visual check seeing the plug spark is a lot better. It sound like you did that. An alternative to starting fluid is 2 stroke fuel sprayed into the carb. I've had good...

Andrew, I believe he's saying it's wheeled trimmer/weed eater. Kevrev, you visually confirmed spark? To me, that's remove plug, ground, and spin motor to see spark. Is that what you meant? Have you checked fuel flow? Remove line from carb to check. I know you tried starting fluid, and...

This is the Briggs parts manual for your model number. It shows a Nikki carb and Walbro. The Nikki carb is part 794572. I couldn't find the Walbro. People here have recommended replacing the Nikki with a Walbro, but I don't know the part number. Hopefully someone will speak up with that...

Glad you found the valve guide.

Are you sure about the compression? The engine may have a compression release. Can you give the engine model number?

You need fuel, air, compression and spark(at the right time). In my experience, lack of fuel is the problem a whole lot of the time. You've covered most of the fuel system. When you were replacing fuel lines, how was the fuel flow? It needs to flow freely from tank to pump. Pull fuel line...

Check the fuel system. Pull the fuel line from the tank to the pump, and make sure it flows freely. Drain into a jar. Let it sit, and check for water. If it flows well, hook that back up, and pull from the carb, and crank the engine, and see how that does. If both of those flow well, I'd...

Good catch!

That is a fuel solenoid. It's purpose is to shut off fuel to the engine, when the ignition is off, to help prevent dieseling/afterfire. If you provide the engine model number, someone can likely help you get a part number. This page shows places where Kubota puts the info...

But that $20 carb may not work right. Don't just buy the cheapest thing you can find.

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Thanks Doug, I guess I did. We'll see what the new K2 does. Have you tried jumpering at the solenoid? Normally there are 2 large wires at the solenoid, one to battery and the other to starter. Obviously the solenoid connects those 2 when it is given the correct signal from the ignition...

Was it no fuel, or no water in the fuel?

The shutoff solenoid can do this. You said it's working, how did you test it? You tested with a line straight to the tank, does the problem happen with both tanks? Just to clarify, I cleaned the check valve, not the screen. The screen looked fine. This was the fuel pickup, not the switch...

Progress anyhow. I went back to page 1 and reviewed. Have you verified that the ignition switch turned to start position delivers 12V to the solenoid, and that you have 12V at the solenoid battery side? If the ignition isn't delivering, you could have a safety switch interfering. Check at...