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When you put the pump on the other mower, which hoses are you using? Check the pulse hose connection to the engine. Remove the hose and make sure it's clear and not cracked.

Good point.

Here's a parts diagram for that engine and carb. https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/briggs-stratton/briggs-stratton-engine/100000-19z999-series/12f700-to-12f799/12f702-0606-01/carburetor It shows a needle valve, and idle speed kit, 94 and 98. Did you see them...

Ok, just checking. Check the pulse line, maybe there's a crack. If you take the fuel line off the carb, and crank the engine, what happens?

The cam issues wouldn't cause a problem when you put the air filter plate on. That's gotta be blocking air/fuel, or binding a linkage or something like that, IMO.

Slomo is talking about the pickup in the tank. When you say before the filter, are you blowing towards carb or tank?

I'm definitely going to try that second type, I've never had good luck with the first either. It breaks, and now you've got a really hard piece of steel in the center of your broken bolt.

Fuel lines to the primer, make sure they're not overly hard, make sure the bulb can draw and push fuel. There could be a clog.

So that hole I see in the pictures has a bolt in it? Something is rubbing that belt. Can you move the belt by hand? Ilengine said "This deck uses a spring connected between a J hook on the rear axle and the rear of that flat plate mounted on the rear of the deck to tension the belt when the...

Disconnect the plug, and try to manually turn the engine over.

Also, I see a missing bolt on one of the belt covers. You need to check those and make sure they're not free to rub the back of the belt.

You're welcome. Glad it was the easy answer.

Ignition switch shorted out, maybe elsewhere also. Time for wiring diagram and voltmeter.

Good question. For the voltage to pull down as much as it was doing, something had to be sucking current, which can melt insulation, burn wires, and more. Check the throttle cables etc while you're doing fuel lines too. Check the choke cables, make sure they can move freely. Choke full on...

Thanks for the update. Replace fuel lines is always good if any doubt. When you say won't run, are you saying it starts, then quits? That's where we were after changing the regulator. When you were testing fuel flow, how long did you flow for? When you change fuel lines, drain the tank...

Is there any news Kawamoto26?

Good news, glad the regulator fixed the voltage drop problem. Try the original carb. It really sounds like a fuel problem at this point.

Well, I can see it in those pictures.

Thanks for the update.

Where is the plug from? I hear there's lots of clones out there that don't work well, and you should buy from local auto parts store. Don't test 2 stroke with starting fluid, there's no lube in it. You can spray mixed gas instead. Make sure all the gas/vac lines are run correctly.

New carb may help. I believe the carb may have a diaphragm to pump fuel, and they can harden. Glad to hear you dealt with fuel lines, tank and fresh fuel. So often, that's what it needs.

I don't know if it's the picture resolution, but that doesn't look bad to me your compression is good, and it runs well. For starting, check the prime, and fuel lines.

But the pump works well, fuel flows well with engine not running, then voltage down with motor running. But something is drawing it down... Check voltage with pump running, then with engine running.

Thank you. That voltage drop is not good.

Please clarify, is the fuel pump electric? That was my impression from what you wrote.

Here's the motor, I think. https://www.partstree.com/models/ch740-0041-kohler-command-pro-engine-made-for-scag-25hp-725cc/05-ignition-charging-4/

Here's the wiring diagram, from https://www.partstree.com/models/stt61a-27ka-scag-turf-tiger-61-zero-turn-mower-27hp-kawasaki-sn-7740001-7749999/electrical-schematic-23hp-amp-27hp-kawasaki-5/ Well, that's not very useful, as it's for the mower, not the motor, and doesn't show the charge system...

That's what I thought. What's the model number? Maybe a wiring diagram will help.

Sure sounds like a power problem. What is the voltage now? It sounds like the voltage went down with engine running, which sounds like alternator/regulator. Looking back where you said fuel flow drops off with engine turning over, which sounds like the same thing. Did you check the wiring...

Use a spark plug. Remove the plug, connect it, and ground it, and crank the engine. Do it in the shade, so you can see the spark. It's not as good as an adjustable gap tester, but it's better than the light bulb.

The fuse blowing suggests an electrical problem, perhaps an intermittent short. I would inspect the wiring, and jiggle/tap them with engine running to see if you can make it die. Please provide model # info so people can look up the circuit diagrams and other info on the mower.

If taking off the brake kills the motor, you need to check all the safety switches and wiring. Just because the seat switch has continuity doesn't mean it can't be the problem. Unplug the wires at the switches and examine the surfaces, you should see shiny where the contacts make contact...

Good call Ewan, I forgot to mention that.

No smell now, or start of summer?

Check the oil, smell it for gas. If needle valve is leaking you could be getting hydrolock. If you smell gas, need to clean carb and test to see if valve seals. Change oil before running.

I was trying to find out if you were hydrolocked from excess fuel in crankcase. It can cause some of what you reported. About half doesn't sound good, though I'm not sure I get what you are saying.

Did you see the fuel go into the carb, or just see it going through the fuel lines? Let us know what happens with fresh fuel.

Did you verify good fuel flow? When replacing all that fuel stuff, did you drain the tank? Have you checked the carb linkages to make sure the throttle and choke are working? Give us the model and serial number off the sticker so we can look it up.

Good news!

Are you following manufacturer's start procedure? Choke on/off as specified? Many do best with prime, then choke on, pull 5 or more times, then 1/2 choke or choke off to start. Good luck.

What did the lines look like when you changed the pump? A leaky vac line to the pump can do this. I would check the flow to and from the pump. I don't know how much you have to disassemble to get the fuel line off the carb...

What was the oil level?

You said the old circuit board/switch did the same thing, gotta be in the wiring.

Is the relay stuck?

I know you didn't do it, but nice spelling of solenoid in the diagram... :)

Check fuel flow as Andrew said. I also recommend the shutoff, though I shut it off after mowing, but don't always run it dry.

It's sounding like a short in the charge circuit. Maybe a damaged wire that shorts to ground? I know you've looked for that, but that's what it sounds like.

I would try removing the fuel gauge, as you said. You may have gotten it going, but it's not necessarily fixed. Clogs at the fuel pickup have a tendency to come back, as the engine runs and draws crud into the pickup. This will also let you flush the tank line from tank to carb. The check...

What about the idler pulley? Also, please supply the model #.

FIrst thing is, we're going to need the engine model #.