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Your mower has an F-Series engine on it and was only produced in 1989. This manual should help you out. Yes, I would replace both seals as long as I have it off the mower. https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball.html

First, please post the model and spec numbers when you post back. That way we will know what engine you’re working on. Second, this is the procedure I taught my students when troubleshooting electrical problems. Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four...

Hopefully you purchased it from a reputable dealer, because you need to return it for the right part.

Water in the fuel.

Did you checked to see if the flywheel key is partially sheared, which would throw off the timing. Second, did you set the coil air gap at .010”? Third, did you set the point gap at .020”?

If you would read the instructions in the manual you would see that it says to remove the coil. Second, the secondary readings say the ohms are K, which means thousands.

Did you even look at the manual? 5.54 ohms does not came close to the parameters for both the primary and secondary windings. Guess you need help where to look, try section 8-14.

Read and follow the directions in this manual for testing coils. Zero Ohms would indicate a bad coil when tested properly. https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FD680V-FD731V-99924-2065-01-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf

Please post engine updates so we can see which engine and carb you are working on. .010” valve clearance seems way to much.

Page 8-11 of this manual shows where each of the four wires are connected on your engine. This might help if you have to rewire. https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-K91-K141-K161-K181-K241-K301-K321-K341.pdf

Patience is not a virtue you have a lot of, right? You’re posting the same thread 7 hours apart? Not good. Look at the dipstick on the old engine. Might try swapping O-Rings and see if that helps. A good O-Ring should solve your problem as dipsticks are not vented. Where’s the picture...

Patience is not a virtue you have a lot of, right? You’re posting the same thread 7 hours apart? Not good. Look at the dipstick on the old engine. Might try swapping O-Rings and see if that helps. A good O-Ring should solve your problem as dipsticks are not vented. Plus in your hurry to...

Looks like a Snapper Comet 30.

Did you to see if the variable speed pulley moved freely? Is the belt tensioner are moving freely? Is the belt routed correctly? These are all things I’ve seen DIY guys forgot to check.

Once again DUPLICATE THREAD.

Looks like the clutch bolt was not tightened properly. Going to have to remove the blade and clutch to find the problem.

I’ve done a many of these. Length of time needed depends on many things. I’ve done it in 45 minutes, but had one which took nearly 2 hours. Your expertise. Tools available Fasteners frozeng Are you able to get under easily Will you have a helper Are you able to follow directions like this...

Since when did Briggs go out of business?

I gave you the part numbers for your proper carb. I suggest that you go to the dealer and have him order the correct one. Yes you may have to pay a little more but if it is the wrong one he will have to bite the bullet. Make sure you take along the engine numbers and the numbers I posted, so...

Tiger, as a service tech you know what to look when getting after market parts. This thread is a prime example of how the DIY guy can get into trouble when they order “IT WILL FIT” parts which may fit but will not do the job. Carbs and coils are the most common components where the DIY guys...

2+2 does not add up to 4. If you have a primer bulb the carb you received will not work. Return and find a good supplier. AutoScam is not a good supplier, as they put a different carb in the box. Not that it surprises me, as I’ve seen this too often in the past.

Looking at the two carbs you showed in post #1, I don’t think you have the correct carb for your engine. When I look up the model number you posted it calls for carb number 15003-7133 which is superseded to carb number 15003-7099. The one thing I see with both of these carbs is you must remove...

Sounds like you have a fuel problem, engine revs high on starting, and electrical problem, blows fuse . Please post anll Engine numbers so we know which engine you have. Stihl used four different engine manufacturers.

I checked and That engine came with a minimum of three different carburetors. Depending on the engine numbers it is very likely that you have the wrong carb. Please check and post the full engine numbers and the part number for the new carb you purchased. That way we can see where the prices is.

Have you run a small wire through the oil return passageway, making sure it is clear all the way into the crankcase. This is how I found the problem I talked about in post #3.

Outside may look the same, but inside may be different. Is the units model number the same as the one listed in the ad? I’ve never had luck with carbs or coils purchased on AutoScam or EBay. To easy to get junk that someone else has tried them returned.

About 10 years ago I’ve switched my 2-cycle engines and those I repair to Opti-2 2-cycle oil. It can be used in all 2-cycle engines with ratios from 16/1 to 50/1. Since doing this I no longer have multiple different fuel cans and I’ve also never hada failure.

Did you replace the carb with an OEM carb bought from a dealer or a carb off EBay or AutoScam. If it were the later I suspect you have the wrong carb. Purchasing a carb that is advertised as “it will fit XYZ ENGINES” may well be your problem. Because it fits doesn’t mean that it is jetted...

I would suggest Toro MyRide system, great for your back. Make sure you take a test ride after checking this site. https://www.toro.com/en/homeowner/riding-mowers/timecutter-mowers?CurrentPage=1&filter=a77f0334-62ec-4fcf-ab2d-623593288648-filtertext-TimeCutter+MyRide#content

Reported this guy

Did you check to see if the magnets on the new flywheel were in the exact same location as the old flywheel in reference to the keyway? More than once I’ve seen a DIY guy replace a flywheel with magnets in a different location. You still get spark, but at the wrong time.

Any time I change points I always spray with brake cleaner, then blow them off with air before installing the cover. That way I know everything is clean and dry.

Replaced too many of them. The cause was not dirt or sand. Cause was wrong size gears and axle alignment.

Look under the seat for the model and serial numbers. You have to lift up the seat.

Star, do the units with 42”, 46”, and 50” decks all use the same tranny?. I don’t like wasting my time looking up each model to answer this question, as my crystal ball is out of order. If the OP wants help he can supply us with numbers. This will also tell us if he is smart enough to open a...

Post the model and serial numbers for your unit. We hate it when we have to guess which one of the hundred different models branded as Cub Cadet. Will tell you that on 99% of the models you have to remove the transmission and open it up to replace an axle.

The drive wheels on a Toro are different than those on other mowers. They use a different size drive gear, less teeth, smaller gear size. Because of that the gear on the wheels are larger. Because of this the alignment between the drive gear and wheel gear has a closer tolerance. Toro’s...

Front wheel drive systems on the Toro 20377 are junk. You are lucky to get 2 years out of the drive wheels becausee t they have plastic gears, and against a metal drive gear. Depending on how much it is used I’ve seen them go out in 6 months This is the main reason I recommend keeping the...

The needle and seat kit you are using contains a new needle, why aren’t you installing the new needle? Are you installing the seat with the ridges toward the carb body? I’ve found that it is better to test for leaks with the carb in the operating position, with fuel applying pressure on the...

Slomo, look closely and you’ll see that the plastic case is gone. Your suggestion will only work once the insulated case is replaced.

That terminal connection should have a plastic cover around it so it doesn’t short out when inserted into the square hole. The plastic cover, which is gone, holds the connector in the square hole. You can see black parts of it in your third picture. You can make your own connector, or...

Might be worth dropping a dime to this company. https://www.yarmandstore.com/oempartfinder?aribrand=MTD&arian&_gl=1*dp4m6e*_gcl_au*MTUxNTA2NjM0OS4xNzc5MzIxMzY3*_ga*NDgzODAwMjc4LjE3NzkzMjEzNjc.*_ga_ELRRHHB45S*czE3NzkzMjEzNjckbzEkZzAkdDE3NzkzMjEzNzUkajUyJGwwJGg0Njk1NjI3NDY.

We used Simple Green for years and never had a problem.

That’s because those tractors were built for Toro for a couple of years before Toro decided to get out of the tractor line. In my opinion they were pieces of junk. Was working at a Toro dealership and we stoppped selling selling them. Think their experiment lasted five years. Warranty work...

toro part number 190-180-190

Yes, that is the easiest way to accomplish your task.

I can’t believe I’m ssaying this as a Toro guy, but looking at the two models, I would keep the Honda.

With the Briggs you replace both the needle and seat, which should get you very close to getting the float level. In my years I’ve figured out a way to adjust plastic floats, but I’m not going to post for all to see, as many DIY guys will not do it right and end up buying a new float.

Float needle is stuck open. Time to clean and rebuild the carb with a knew float needle and seat. Here’s a procedure I taught my students. Needle and seat replacement. Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets...

Try this. https://techcomm.rehlko.com/techcomm/pdf/32_690_03_EN.pdf