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Thanks! I have a handful of those that I purchased recently. They seem small compared to the OEM ones, but currently they are working just fine.

I was able to locate the correct diode (1N4007) which I purchased and made a new harness. I made a new connection after the plug in the OEM harness for ease of removal in case I have further issues. It was more of a PITA to install the kill switch harness than it was to make it. I would...

Are there alternatives to the diodes?

Is there a different method instead of the diodes?

That was the original kill switch diode harness. If not for the forum, I would never be aware of the diode issue.

Thinking that the kill switch diode was possibly bad, I ordered the diodes and made a harness myself. It was a real PITA, but I got it installed and the backfire is now gone, at least for the time being. I hope it's been fixed. Thanks everyone for the assistance! This forum rocks!

There are times when it won't crank over well, but that has always been when the battery is low. I don't have a trickle charger, so occasionally I have to put a charger on the battery. When it's fully charged, I don't have any issues.

The valves seem to open up the same amount. As for the engine cranking while the plugs are installed, if the battery is charged, it cranks fine. Am I needing to replace the camshaft? I forgot to mention that sometimes it doesn't shut off when the key is turned to the off position. It will...

OK, I understand. But it's a new, never been used gauge. This is literally the first time I've had it out of the box. And with the numbers for compression that the manual says it should be, I thought it was a good number. The instructions say it can be used for any type of engine.

It's a brand new gauge. Never been used prior to this. And yes, this was cranking psi. I continued to crank it over until the needle on the gauge stopped moving. Both plugs were removed, so it spun easily. Why would I report fictitious numbers?

Thanks for the reply. I can check each cylinder with a scope for carbon. But I don't know about it being new. This is a 2008 engine. Is that considered new? Do you mean engines manufactured before a certain date are higher in compression ratio? I don't mean to sound like I have a bad attitude...

That's what is so odd about this. It's a random backfire. It's now not only during idle but at full throttle, too. At first it was a slight backfire only while idling. Now it's happening no matter where the throttle is positioned.

Excellent, thanks!

How do I replace that diode?

New fuel filter. Fresh tank of gas. It's what I've been running since I bought the mower new back in 2008. The fuel pump is 2 years old. I will remove the fuel line after the pump and check it. I haven't removed the engine cover yet to check the coils and the gap for the coils. I will do that...

Compression is 140 on each cylinder.

On the engine, just the coils and spark plugs. I'm not sure which side is backfiring. How can I test for this? I'm sure I have a compression tester. Gonna have to dig it up.

The coils are 2 years old, along with the wires. I haven't done a compression test yet. It's not using any oil and it's not building any pressure in the crankcase.

I have an intermittent misfire with this engine. Serial number is 406777, type is 0442 B1. I have replaced the spark plugs after setting the correct gap. I have checked the valve lash. The intake on the left cylinder needed a slight adjustment. The others were all at .05. I cleaned the valve...

Sometimes that's hard for me to do. But I will control myself and check everything that's been mentioned.

Will do that, thanks!

You too

I will do that, probably tomorrow. We're under a tornado warning and a thunderstorm watch, so I'm staying inside right now.

I will do that, thanks. I've had this tractor since 2008. The only issue I had was the mounts for the transmission. They cracked and the transmission wouldn't engage. I'm assuming that the "ears" on the frame were flexing too much. The last time I was under the tractor was when I removed the...

The belt and pulleys were replaced 2 years ago. I'm sure the belt is routed correctly. I imagine it's possible that the pulleys that I purchased were not the best quality. I will have to remove the deck and crawl under and check it all. Any ideas for a reliable source for the belt and pulleys...

Sir, I really appreciate your help. But I believe I may have given you the wrong impression. I watched the video you included, but it only speaks to the deck belt. My issue is with the transmission drive belt. Earlier this year I did have a problem with the deck, which I figured out and...

If you mean a brake for the tractor, the brake is internal in the transmission. It does, however, have brakes that rest against the pulleys on the mowing deck. But that doesn't effect the drive belt, does it?

Good tip. But this tractor has a K46 transmission, which has an internal brake. I hope I haven't misunderstood you.

Thanks for the manual, and the advice. I will check the pulleys, guard and the belt.

Model #936042. It's a 42" Ariens hydrostatic with a Briggs and Stratton Intek v-twin 20hp engine. Riding mower.

The past 2 times I have mowed the lawn, the drive belt on my riding mower (Ariens 42" hydro) has come off the idler pulley. This only happens after the mower is shut off. This pulley has a guard, so I don't understand how it's coming off. The belt is a few years old now, and it doesn't show any...

Just FYI, I had to "adjust" the blade brake bracket on the right side of the deck. It wasn't lined up very well with the pulley. Just the edge of the brake was contacting the pulley and also preventing the idler arm from its full travel. The blades now engage and disengage as designed. Not happy...

Thanks. I did test it, but without being able to see if the idler arm was moving enough to disengage the blades, I thought everything was good.

Thanks for the response. The PTO cable was replaced last spring. The deck idler arm hasn't been replaced. I can remove the deck and check/lube the idler arm. The spring that attaches to the arm seems to cause a little restriction of movement. Maybe I reinstalled it incorrectly.

This is on an Ariens 936042. It's a 42" deck. I just tore it down to repaint and rebuild it. I replaced the spindles, idler pulleys and blades. Replaced the blade brakes. Reinstalled everything the same as I found it. Now the blades won't disengage. Any thoughts? I used a schematic from an...

I had the same issue with my Ariens tractor. The ears for the transmission were both split, causing it to not go into gear. After researching it, I located a repair kit which involves cutting off the OEM ears and bolting on a new set. The new ears are heavier metal. It was a fairly easy job...

Dang, dude 👎

Thanks for the reply. I don't have the restrictor plate, but I do have the swirl plate. I really appreciate your help with identifying the 2 plates in question. As for the website, I agree. It's acting up badly.

Can you advise which is which? The restrictor plate is the metal one with the eyebrows? I don't know if I have ever seen the swirl plate. Thanks

So, the restrictor plate is what's used to detune the engine to the desired HP?

I've had the same issue with my mower. Replaced coils and plugs, but it still stalled after about 20 minutes of operation. I drilled a very small hole in the gas cap, and never had another problem.

I wonder if maybe I should buy an AGM battery for the UTV and put the newer battery in the mower. It's a 340 CCA.

Dang, batteries sure don't last long anymore 🥺

Well, I just checked it with a voltmeter. It drops to 9.62v during cranking.

I will do that, and thanks 👍

I'm using a battery that came out of a UTV that I have. I replaced that battery because it didn't seem to have enough CCA's to start it. This battery is a 300 CCA one. I put it on a charger before I installed it, and after hooking up the starter assist relay, it started right up with just a...

Already had that installed 👍

Gotta say, it's been a long time since it started so quickly and ran so well!

Replaced the battery, reconnected the cables, and it started right up! Thanks to everyone for your help!

Well, that was a show! Dang thing just about buried the needle in the "replace" end of the meter.