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StarTech Yes, replacing it with an upgrade is the best indication, but this is another world...either they are not available or they are very expensive...I'll take advantage of the fact that I have my hand in the dough and measure it, because I'm not sure of the nothing originality in this tractor.

In the B&S/Murray diagram, the screw does not exist. Maybe on other models... I don't see how the Torringtons last long as they are open. It is possible that in light use, like golf turf, they last a little longer.

I agree, but since it is not jumping and the gap is still acceptable, the exchange will be for later. The most important thing for the moment was to give a lot of stability to the plate sector, which was rocking... with the screw I put in, it was very firm.

StarTech Show! But in the video I saw, it wasn't a replacement kit... it was common bearings, which are much cheaper around here. I'll take the measurements and see if there is direct replacement or needs adaptation. As for the needle axials, I have a doubt if they are efficient for a long...

There is a little play on the axles of the wheels, I saw some replacing the bushings with ball bearings... would anyone know how to tell me the number of such a bearing?

Today I completed the steering wheel rotation limitation... it is stopping with +- 1/4 of a turn before the previous end... in the sector plate 4 teeth before the end. It worked very well... it's not forcing the draglink pivots, because the limit is now in the plate sector itself. I also made...

Exactly...JD was my inspiration.... 👍

I don't understand fan gear?!?! Are you against the location I chose or the idea of limiting the curve?

Well, trying to solve the excess wheel spin (L/R), I already adjusted the end limit (which is now done in the plate sector, before it was at the end of the gear), adjusted the length of the drags, corrected the alignment and recovered the excess play in a drag, I saw the need to change the front...

Many things happen at a time when we do not assess the consequences, especially when it comes to products, as they are discarded or sold. It would be nice if there was a comparative statistics of results between those who have never used grease, those who always use it and those who use that dry...

Well, the work on the spindles turned out pretty good and it might stay that way until I sort out an adjustable drag. Yesterday, when removing the spindles, I noticed that the bushings are already at the end of their useful life, but I can't reproduce these because they are too thin and I ran...

On the contrary friend, any comment is important, even if it is not in the way of my immediate solution. After completing the adjustment on the spindle, I was able to assess that the best way out would be to make an adjustable drag... but I couldn't gather the necessary material. The adjustment...

Well, I went ahead with the fix on Spindle... Tomorrow during the day I will see the result better. Before After Before After It was relatively easy, but if there was drag adjustment it would be much better.

But the right one too... see it enlarged... the angle doesn't favor it, but it does have a fold.

Do not scare me! In the diagram it appears with the fold.

42L18G60X8A

I'm still hitting the drag... Could you show me the drawing? " This by the way is adjustable as the plate in front of the cross member has slots so you can tighten it . "

Focusing on the cited parts and now with daylight, I could observe some things (with aligned sectorplate) 1 - In fact there is a difference in the size of the drags. 2 - There is a weld on the right side drag (seat). 3 - Matching the drags, there will still have to be a small correction in the...

There are other options... create adjustment of the current drags or straighten the spindles, which seems to me to be the real problem. When the original part is expensive or not available, creativity is used.

See a close-up, but remember that the shild is crooked.

I can't see what you're talking about, but any correction (as I don't have drag adjustments) will have to be on the splindle ears.

I removed the car lift and adjusted the steering wheel (the sector plate is misaligned).

If my draglinks were adjustable it would be easy, but... I'll try hard.

I ended up taking advantage of that hole in the plate sector. I made a bushing, crossed by a screw plus a wide washer and another pressure washer. Now the plate sector doesn't wobble and there's only looseness between the gears... it's excellent. However, when I align the sector plate, the...

My draglinks have no adjustment, they are fixed. My wheels are reasonably parallel and in line with the steering wheel.

Well, even if it's cleaned after each use, the damage is already done... and only the sum of the next use is prevented. The ideal would be to avoid the accumulation of sand/dust... but how to make parts like the ones below? And also between the plate and its support... Or another similar...

I found this material from John Deere... it's not the same sector plate, but it serves the purpose I think. And it can even act as an end-of-course limiter for the steering.

I don't know this technique, let alone dry wax. If it really dries, the probability of sticking dust or micro grains of sand is very remote. But does it create a film that hinders friction between parts (which is the purpose of grease)? ... or acts as a dirt repellant?

Yes, according to the diagram nothing there...but a screw with a limiting sleeve would guarantee more precision and less wobble in the secto plate. Good, sector plate bushing minimal wear...steering shaf bushing, perfect...teeth little wear... Talk more about "I'll bet your wheel have major toe...

After watching some videos about blocking the hitch or non-return of the tensioner pulley on several decks from different brands and even analysis of my own deck/tractor, I am in doubt regarding the placement of grease in unprotected points on the deck and in the plate sector, for example . In...

It doesn't appear on the diagram, but shouldn't there be something helping to support the plate sector in this hole? Another doubt is how much the front wheels turn... it seems excessive to me, even hitting the drag links (LH/RH) at the end of the course. There are ears on the Spindle...

The test drive worked very well... I just had to readjust the height of the deck, as level 6 was too heavy to engage... but the little vibration I still have to solve... As for the unevenness of the blades, I plan to follow in Taryl's footsteps and use precision tools...

For what purpose are you attaching this piece? Make the terrain very flat and continue with grass or turn over the land to plant something different?

Yesterday I was testing the modified deck and everything was working normally, until I noticed a failure in acceleration, characterizing a lack of fuel. I removed the caburator and did a quick cleanup, normalizing the thing and I finished the day without problems. I returned home and this...

Well, now it's a refinement... Today I'm on my micro farm and I'm going to do a test drive... here I still don't have a workshop structure like in my house where I live. Here I still don't have internet or a computer... just my cell phone. Free spindles, tensioner bearings and new passage...

Do you believe this vibration is acceptable?

Well friends, Today I finished the adaptation project… it turned out really well. The deck now rises and falls with virtually no forward or backward variation and no twisting. I put a belt tension adjustment point (which I didn't have), replaced some coupling lever bushings... but the tensioner...

Hello friends! To determine the new belt size, I need to know where exactly the idler pulley works...whether in the engaged stop or in the middle between the start of the brake release. Would anyone know how to tell?

Do you think that a 3mm variation is good or is it still too big? ...at least on paper it worked...

I analyzed the situation of my deck a lot and came to some conclusions... 1 - It's a poorly made adaptation of a Husqvarna deck, on a Murray product. (obvious) 2 - The suspension arms must be the same size, which is why my deck twisted when going up or down. 3 - The distance from the deck towers...

Guys, I don't know if you understand, but what I need to know is what level is indicated when the belt is as shown in the drawing, that is, perfectly horizontal. ...and can be any similar type of deck...

Hello everyone... anyone "online" and who has a deck like the one below (same suspension arm and link) to tell me at what level (1, 2...6) the belt is perfectly horizontal... with respect to the driving pulley.

While the idea of changing the geometry of the deck matured, I changed the bearings of the idler pulley and the tension pulley... both were dry, noisy but without significant play.

I removed the support on the left side (red) and repositioned it closer to the right, so as not to hit the bottom anymore, keeping the same height as the holes on the right (green). However, as can be seen in the drawing, it was not parallel to the rear structure of the deck and, in addition...

No... no discussion... it really helps... My english is from google... I just disagreed when you said that "The belt ossillates because there is a not enough tension on it". I described to you the practice of my case, which is exactly the opposite, that is, greater tension, greater oscillation.

Really I conclude that there was a very poorly done adaptation. When looking for new decks to buy, neither from the original importer (Trapp) does not exist. Yes, it appears, but from Husqvrna... and I saw answers from the seller saying that people buy Husqvarna and adapt it to Murray. But I...

Belt data that came on the deck when I bought it It's correct?

Yes, I understand that the movement of the deck makes an arc in relation to the driving pulley and this can affect the belt tension a little... but in my case this variation is very large and changes not only the belt tension but also the oscillation of the tensioner pulley. If I make an...

After completing 50 hours of use, I did the first preventive maintenance on my Murray 18.5 HP... (change of oil, filter, grease, valve gap readjustment, blade sharpening, inspection of several other items, etc.. .). I spent some time analyzing my cutting deck, since I bought it (it's used, I'm...

Continuing... Case 6) This last example is a masterpiece of cheap and functional engineering... I just invented it... Case 6)