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I agree with Star Tech and would add: Wet grass will develop a strong very corrosive liquid as it decays. The liquid loves alloys (blade spindles, etc) and will turn it into a crumbling mess, very quickly -$$$$ to replace. Its is slower to damage unpainted steel but the effect, in the end, is...

12 Volt automotive systems are notorious for developing poor ground/earth. Remove & clean all earth connections. Make sure they are all tight. With my own equipment, I always run a dedicated (-) earth/ground return cable/wire, from battery (-) to engine ie I do not rely on the chassis earth...

If you are changing your coolant every 12 months you should not have to flush the system EVER!, as long as you use the same coolant ie only flush when changing coolant brand/type. I would recomend replacing coolant every 2-4 years depending on the hours the machine is doing per year. Water Scale...

If no longer available, try modifying a fan off an electric motor. Be sure, fan blade pitch / air flow is correct for your application

Clean Filter Check for exhaust obstruction

Always do your own mix. It's easy and the only way to have control over the quality of the oil & fuel used and the ratio applied.

Interesting - This mower is second hand, is aesthetically in good order and since my customer has had it been serviced, minimal/nil chaff in the cylinder fins, does not use oil and was running just fine until dropping the con rod.

I do not agree, that ethanol destroys steel tanks - what destroys steel tanks is water that is allowed to collect at the bottom of the tank that the operator/owner of the equipment fails to remove on a regular basis. Ethanol blends may attract more water than straight petrol however condensation...

That's great my friend, however I would suggest that you drain the tank sump and any in line water traps, at least once per year.

Still waiting for the Brains Trust to speculate on how a piston/con rod ends up separating from the crankshaft.

I have never used ethanol blended fuel, so some of my commentary is speculative. Agree with purchasing any fuel from a high volume/turn over supplier. Also only purchasing sufficient fuel for your relativly short term needs (whatever they may be) Storage of petrol: Most, if not all, petrol...

Speculation: I understand that synthetic oils have better temperature resistance to breakdown. I do not know if this applies to all synthetic oils but know of one engine maker, who has addressed high temperatures, in one of their models by specifying that a synthetic oil (meeting very specific...

I am a bit surprised that there has been no speculation, as to the cause of one piston no longer being attached to the crankshaft of this engine???????

In small engines there is no significant difference between the burn/ power developed, of a high or low octane fuel (subject to the low octane fuel not being below that recommended by the engine maker). It would take sophisticated engine testing equipment, well outside most home/small business...

No High octane fuels, will not cause "knocking" in small engines. They will have little if any effect, good or bad however your expenditure will increase for no benefit.

Well it works for me. Just have to plan ahead and have your waste oil pan in the right position when you tip the mower/pump/compressor/generator. Depending on the location of the fill point, it may be helpful to have some blocks to steady the machine on, or a handy wall to lean the handle...

Like you Tony I am no expert on fuel standards or performance. I am with ILENGINI on this matter. I can not speak for USA fuels however here in Australia we commonly have 91,95 & 98 RON (Research Octane Number). I don't use ethanol blends so won't comment on them. 91 RON is used in small...

Many small petrol engines, on things like mowers, usually require choke to be applied by moving the throttle lever past the max rpm position - this is the main reason why they go to WOT at start. There is another factor - the governor moves to WOT when the engine is stopped. The governor will...

Listen to this guy - he knows what he is talking about. I do my small motors by tilting them (usually close to 90 degrees) so the old hot oil flows out of the fill port. Works for all small engines that I have come across. No need to purchase any fancy gadgets to add further clutter to my...

Just had a conversation with my local B & S agent; He said that ever since CV19, supply of engines/parts (across several brand's) from the USA has been awful. Doesn't know why.

Thanks for that MParr. I did a search - Yes Loncin are available in Australia. There is a 24 HP variant with 1" shaft. Very cheap. There is no dealership close to me. My concern would be parts back up. I think I will stick with the B & S that hopefully will arrive in Australia about mid June

Just found out that no 27Hp 1in x 3 5/32 in shaft motors imported in to Australia. Dont know why.

Thanks for that

Out of curiosity - Do you think that the 27 Hp 724cc (49T877) would fit without any chassis modifications???

Yeah! Thanks for that Lawn Royalty - The engine you recomend looks the goods. The extra 2 Hp will be helpful too. My research to date, suggests that Australia is going through a bit of a B&S twin drought - the engine you specified is not available at the moment BUT Briggs & Stratton 25 Hp...

What! No thoughts, on engine replacement, from the Forum Brains Trust????? I would have thought that repowering, of mowers & the like, would be a hot topic.

".........the fuel tank is clean and rust free (I only use real gasoline, not car gas)" All metal fuel tanks can/will rust. All fuel tanks "sweat" ie condensation develops . This is especially so in climates that have a wide daily temperature range, at certain times of the year. The condensat...

I am curious; Most of my experince is with 3-6cylinder diesel engines - never had a failure like this B&S V twin. Anyone care to speculate how/why? Engine came to me second hand in good esthetic condition (looked well cared for) with a claimed approximate 190 hrs (hour meter frozen at a much...

SOLVED!!!!!!! One piston is not moving - stuck up. I suspect connecting rod big end has separated - thats why there is no noise when cranked. New Question Without knowing what the damage may, be is this : A cost efective rebuild??? Replacement engine???

All engine mounting bolts tight - no sign of movement/fretting anywhere. I did not describe the vibration accurately - at low/idle rpm much more/courser/violent vibration, so much so that the carburettor is visibly shaking, to the point I am concerned it may crack an inlet manifold. High rpm...

Two new plugs - no change Removed the hydraulic & deck drive system, from engine crankshaft/PTO - no change. So none of the belt pulleys or electro clutch, are causing the vibration. Engine starts & runs just fine - vibration (I would describe as medium to high intensity) remains fairly constant...

Mower has two ignition coils - have swapped & checked each spark plug - plugs out & grounded, cranked engine - good spark on each. Plug colour - one good (light brown) other a bit dark but cleaned up okay. I agree with new plugs - low cost and never know may solve problem.

Ferris 48" Part No 5901740, B&S 23 Hp, Commercial Series, Model 44C777000 5 G1 Engine has developed a vibration, throughout rev range (deck not engaged) Work done: Armature gap within specification. Valve clearances, adjusted. Spark plugs cleaned & gaped - good spark. Fuel supply - good. Air &...

Fair comment

I was quite specific about engines fitted with a separate choke control V engines with a combined throttle/choke. I stand by my advice, for engines fitted with separate throttle/choke controls, to have the throttle closed or at most open a "smidgeon" for cold starts.Try it - you will get far...

I forgot to mention: If you inadvertently flood your engine. Do not keep cranking/ trying to start - this will just make the situation worse, overheat/damage your staring system and drain your battery Open the choke fully (choke button down/in all the way) Open throttle all the way. Place hand...

Don't know the engine but as an old fogy I would always recommend 1/2 the recommended oil change intervals, at least for the first two services. Use a straight 30W mineral oil initially and there after whatever you wish. All engines, particularly air cooled, depend on their oil for a lot of...

As a general principal, a carburetted engine should not be started with throttle advanced and choked at the same time - If your manual says to use throttle, only use very very little - fast idle position only. Many of the smaller, usually single cylinder engines, have throttle/choke on the one...

If its just a smear of oil I would not be too worried. Smoke on start up, that clears almost instantly may be oil or an over-rich/flood of petrol - check that you are going through the correct staring sequence, with throttle/choke settings as per operator manual. Most of my mowers - especially...

Added to Berts analysis above - this may be a sheared flywheel "key" - this may allow the fly wheel to move on the crankshaft, which in tern changes the ignition timing, causing backfiring and loss of power and quit possibly wont allow the engine to start/run at all.

Okay take a deep breath, this may take some time. The first thing is to be able to describe the "symptoms" so that we can have a chance at a diagnosis and remedy. This means you must try to get your terminology right - if you dont have the knowledge/background, to enable you to do this, get...

Slow cranking is most often a weak battery - try charging over night with quality multi stage charger, using a known good battery jump start, replacing battery. Could also be poor electrical connections - check all connections for security - pay special attention to earth/ground return. Note...

FYI - I do not wash my mowers. I use compressed air to blow them clean after every operation. I make a point of air blasting around the idling engine, through every opening I can find. I repeat this around the transaxle, deck & drive pulleys, chassis - when you know where the chaff tends to...

FYI - Opening the drain plug on the lower right side of the transmission only allows about 2/3 of the oil to drain. The remainder of the oil only came out when I removed the transmission front plate & "filter gasket". Note Take note of the position of the adjusting bolt cam on the bracket...

Well there you go - a throw away job! Well mine has had,what I would call a basic servic, in that the filter has been cleaned (would have replaced it it they were still available) and oil changed. The "boss" mowed the lawns last night with it and pronounced it as good as ever (high praise indeed)

No hour metre on my 212-H - she gets a thorough service (no short cuts) once very 12 months (more often if we have a great grass growing season)

Hi Bert, Transaxle oil changes - must confess I dont recall seeing this on the service schedule (have I missed it?) Another confession - in the 10 + years I have owned this mower, I have only changed the trans oil (30W) once and that was when she had a heart transplant (from Onan to B&S)...

I would not go so far as to say "solved" - thicker oil is probably just taking up the wear, so I would expect the problem to appear again. I really like this old mower, so hopefully have put off the next transmission problem for some time. As mower in great condition, I wonder (for the future)...

Good news! - As stated: Drained all the old 30W oil. Opened front end of transaxle (a lot more oil came out) found and removed "filter gasket". Cleaned filter ( new one not available in AU). Put everything back together as was. Refilled axle with a 15W-50 oil. Note: took a very long time for...

Thanks Bert - I should be able to find him from that.