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EFI engines need "cleaner" fuel than carburetted engines. When it comes to talking filters its almost a chalk & cheese scenario - ie don't mix them FI systems usually require significantly finer (smaller micron) filters. Most often metal casing. Higher cost. Often quite a large filter to allow...

My point is: Replacing an opaque filter at regular intervals, does not allow the maintainer to exercise judgement ie does it really need to be changed. If the maintainer/operator exercises good refuelling "hygiene" the inline filter may not need replacing for many years. Saving $ You will...

The video, posted by MParr, is not very helpful. Pleated filter media can do a good job , however it is hard to judge the degree of material caught/blockage and there is the ever present risk of the media breaking down and entering the carburettor. Use a gauze filter medium. Opaque filter casing...

Very few people in Australia bother with catching clippings. It may be our soil/grass types/environment but the clippings, on the surface, only seem to be around for about a day or two. My assumption - the various biological entities (worms/beetles/fungi/etc) consume the clippings. :devilish:

If the engine manufacturer does not specify, I would suggest a filter micron anywhere from 50-120. My feeling would be one more towards the 100 Reasons: The engines fuel delivery system will be able to handle a certain particle size without damage or blocking. No point in filtering out these...

How many of you have actually made comparative observations of before blade sharpening & after: How does your lawn look How hard did your mower work My bet - you will not be able to tell the difference and if you imagine you can, it will be minimal. Reality - There is no doubt that the mower...

"Straight weight oils like 30HD and 40HD have gone out of popularity. The biggest issue involving straight weight oils is the warmup time required to get the oil heat actually circulating efficiently." Partly correct; Multi grade oils do indeed act like a lower viscosity oil when cold, allowing...

To be able to make an informed decision about the performance of a filter, the following link gives you the idea of what may be involved; https://www.kitplanes.com/oil-filter-testing/ Anything less is just speculation :devilish:

"I hate China for its human rights issues, slave and forced labor, aggressiveness, dumping plastics into the open oceans, unfettered environmental issues, and dumping junk into our markets at a loss to undercut US manufacturers." Wow! Do you realise, that what you "hate" is, in a broad sense...

The only bad oil filter is one that overly restricts/stops the oil flow. Even an empty canister will not heart your engine for the duration of a service period. Will my oil filter; Remove contaminants - The only way to know this for sure, is by third party empirical testing. When did you see an...

No offence intended Tiger but your logic is wanting. Oil (all engine) filters are made all over the developed World, to engine maker specifications, branded (ie painted, serial number, etc) according to the contract (Engine maker, Filter Supply Company, etc). Price & adherence to design...

Thoughts On The Matter: Problem with filters (especially the spin-on/enclosed kind) is that the end user (us) do not have the equipment, technical expertees to make an informed judgement as to how effective the filter is. As others have noted, where the filter is made has little bearing on its...

Thanks Guys, Took my old belt in to my local mower shop. They agree with your part numbers/size HOWEVER the old belt is significantly shorter than the original belt DESPITE being was too loose, when not connected to engine/PTO. It may be that the only solution, to the belt coming off, is the...

Thanks ILENGINE - what of the dimensions/specifications for the belt? :devilish:

I have an old Toro Wheel Horse 17.44 HXL Model No.71283, Serial No. 240000104 - Deck may be a Model No.79107 - mows a great lawn. This mower was gifted to me, to use as parts - couldn't help myself - got her going and glad of it. Cutter deck belt needs replacing. Not sure but think Toro Part...

For all intents and purposes air is a fluid & for the most part behaves as one. Fluids, vary in their compressibility - air is relativly compressible compared with say oil. Pneumatic systems behave much like hydraulic. ILENGINE's reply is the correct one :devilish:

As a retired agriculturalist, I am wondering about a tractor tire that is being inflated to 60 psi ??? Could be some sort of loader I suppose. :devilish:

Follow up report? :devilish:

First check that you have the correct dipstick for your engine: With most vertical shaft B&S engines, you can check the dipstick for correct length & Min/Max markings . Just hold the dip stick vertical on the outside of the holder/tube, cap at the lock/screw down position, the Max mark should...

"flange pattern (should be the same)" If your a bit handy, a diffrent pattern shape/size, need not stop you. NOTE; You must still end up with, the new engine, pto shaft (crank extension) in the same position as the original :devilish:

I agree with the possibility of a blocked fuel tank cap breather - follow above suggestions Fuel filter; If access to compressed air, try blowing the filter out in the reverse direction of flow. Refit and see if you get a better flow from tank (into clean jar) Replace fuel filter - I have...

Try this; https://www.kawasaki-engines.eu/en/support/technical-information/technical-downloads/?f_series=FD&f_model=FD731V :devilish:

In cooler climates multigrades have the advantage over mono's for the very reason you have mentioned. Multigrades are less viscous at lower temperatures than monos, so offer less resistance to cranking (easier faster starting) and better cold engine circulation. Cold weather also reduces the...

Interesting! In Australia - Up until probably the last 10 years, 10W/40, 15W/40, even 20W/40 was probably the most popular mineral multigrade in both petrol & diesel engines. Most small air-cooled engines used a straight (mono grade) W30. They all seemed to do the job. It's all changed now with...

"Ah, very weak frames and a common issue...run er" By "runer", do you mean chassis rails?:devilish:

HaHa! I may be an amature sheet metal worker but no the problem is elsewhere. If I take the bonnet/hood off the engine looks crooked. As the mower is working well I don't realy want to disassemble the whole thing just to fix what is an aesthetic annoyance. I wish I could post photos on this...

Who said the "hood is still intact" - It sort of is - I have replaced the front with sheat metal, riveted on and the broken plastic top vent with an aluminium one. Toro goes a lot faster now :devilish:

This is a Toro Wheel Horse 17.44 HXL - I apologise for not giving the full details at the start. Still cutting a great lawn. Still looking a bit "wonky" from the front - wife (main user) loves it :devilish:

Good on ya! Your making a living out of what people want and I support you 100% in that. Most domestic ride on users, would be hard put to see any difference in power required and quality of cut. Quality of cut - sharp blade may cut a little cleaner at the magnifying glass inspection level- who...

No probs mate - sharpen away. I hope the sharpening contributes to your income because I don't believe it does a thing for the lawn. As I said earlier - I do not know of any professional gardeners/lawn mowing contractors that sharpen their mower blades and they seem to be able to deliver some...

This is news to me. Most grasses have evolved to tolerate considerable damage by grazing animals. Lawn grasses in particular have been selected to tolerate frequent "damage" from mowing without undue stress. As a retired farmer, I know that we depend on the condition of our grass to raise...

Sorry if repeating another's earlier comment; There can be no doubt that sharpening mower blades, will improve performance by reducing the hp required to do the job. BUT THIS MUST BE BALANCED BY KNOWING THAT: Sharpening requires the removal of blade material, vastly reducing the life of the...

So have you checked out the thermocouples, as suggested in #15??? :devilish:

Spindle bushings - ? The only spindles I know of are the cutter deck spindles (x3) with bearings not bushes. There are bushes in the front wheel rims - they are all good. Front axle is level with the ground. This is likly a terminological misunderstanding - please go further with your...

As the owner of an old industrial level Hustler Super Z, I am aware that the Supe Z designation now seems to cover a wide range of mowers in the brand. Might be a good idea to give your actual model/engine/hp/deck size

Slomo - don't know what the climate/soil conditions are where you mow but feel compelled to make some helpful (?) suggestions: Only mow ; When grass is dry Soil in relativly dry Avoid using same tracks - change mowing pattern If living in a high rainfall area and or clay soils; Put in some...

I am but an old farmer, limited understanding, just accept the recommendations of what seems rational. Modern crankcase oils containe many additives, to help them performer to the standards the engineers/chemists demand. When the oil is fresh, the mix is in balance & contains no foreign...

Propane has significantly lower energy/L than either petrol or diesel. The effect is lower power, more gas consumed /hr/kilometer than a liquid fuel. Can be attractive as often much cheaper than liquid fuels. Does not have the "lubricity" of liquid fuels so may cause accelerated wear of valves...

I think you may be a little confused. Turbo diesel have been around since 1925. In serial production since 1951. Most smaller (sub 150 hp?) tractors were naturally aspirated until about 2000? Turbo charging can confer more efficient/complet fuel burn = better engine efficiency/power output and...

FYI - From my limited understanding. There have been two main types of diesel cylinder heads; Precombustion (PC). An excellent but expensive system. Tolerant of fuel quality & to a small extent contaminants. Does not lend itself to fast exceleration. I have never seen a cross flow pre combustion...

Enjoyed your response. I would speculate that the reason why most of the World uses diesel extensively, while the US not so much, is that you have always had relativly cheap petrol, making the acquisition of a diesel car/ small commercial, questionable economics. My wife's Hyundai i30, 1.6L...

Sounds the goods BUT the specifications are a bit suss - "Ignition Mode - Electric Ignition" something lost in translation? :devilish: Personally I would prefer liquid cooled for best performance, longevity and possibly quieter running.

In Australia, The vast majority of contract/local government, grass cutting, is done using diesel powered mowers (most over 25 hp). Emergency & remote power supply electricity generators, over about 7 Kw, are diesel Dedicated fire fighting pumps are for the most part diesel (being less...

Try to remember - the USA is NOT the centre of the known universe. In my part of the World turbo diesel vehicles from around 1.6 - 3.5L are very popular and have been so for very many years. Light commercials (2.2 - 3.5L Ford, Issuzu, Toyota, Mazda, VW, MB, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Photon, LDV...

Diesels vary just like petrols. In general they are likly to have a longer stroke, than petrol & deliver torque at lower rpm. Not a diesel expert but am aware that diesels that rev over about 1700 rpm are considered high speed. Big trucks are loping along at under 1500 rpm. Small vehicles (cars...

Slomo - try comparing similar capacity/ roles with similar - when did you last check out a petrol "18 wheeler truck" "We both know, any non turbo Diesel is a dog." If it's a "dog" , a 300D (non turbo) cruising economically at 100 mph may be a greyhound. Horses for courses - want a sports car...

Had a W123 240D, 3 x W123 300D's and a W116 240D - LOOOVE diesel. While the naturally aspirated variants are very sloooow to accelerate - man do they just keep going! 160 kph, noooo problemo! and as solid on the road at that speed, as they are at 60 kph. One of my 300Ds was a station wagon 5...

Not a good idea - while it might be possible to get it to run (after much costly effort) it will not run for long. Diesel engines are designed, from the start, to accommodate much higher compression (needed for spontaneous ignition) and what is essentially a life of pre ignition, that would...

No! A rich fuel air mixture will cool the engine. It will also carbon/soot up the plug(s). One of the most common causes of a hot/cold engine indication, is a faulty thermocouple/sensor. As you have two (engine/transmission) is it possible to swap them around and see if they are consistent in...

In my very limited experience overheating is usually: Lack of cooling - As this is an aircooled engine, something restricting air flow. Running lean - carburettor not delivering the correct amount of fuel for the air : fuel ratio - something restricting fuel flow - "gunked" up jet or similar