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Finally got it off. Got some Kroil and soaked it good let it set over night. Started beating on it again hit it a few times and it just fell off

The two should not be related. Are you sure there is not something wedged in the deck like in the blades or even a pulley. Take the deck belt off and see if it does it then.

you could buy a torque stick. I have one.

I think you are on the right track. I think it is either a worn cam lobe, or it has slipped on the shaft. I have seen the lobes slip on the cam shaft. Check the lift on the intake valve and compare it to the exhaust valve lift. If the lift is the same the lobe is not worn but it could have...

If it won't blow out you can take a small screw driver and stick down in the hole and turn the seat then it will blow out. Be careful and don't go too deep and mess up seating arear.

YEA ME TOO

I usually just used compressed air to blow it out. Then the other end of the tool to install the seat.

Since that seems to have worked for you that is well and good. They do recommend releasing the hydro's when you do that.

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That is the manual kill terminal on the engine. Post model type and code no of the engine to look it up. It goes on the throttle control bracket.

POST MODEL AND SERIAL NO AND SOMEONE WILL SEE IF THEY CAN FIND IT.

If you change a lot of tires see my post BEAD BLASTER

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Working on a Dixie Chopper Silver Eagle trying to pull the engine but cannot get the clutch off. Any ideas as to how to get it off. Tried spraying it with Super Zilla and beating on it but won't budge.

It is all due to overheating. It makes the plastic gears brittle and will over time break.

Try blowing it out with compressed air.

Where is it leaking? Out the top oil seal? If it is replace the engine the top main bushing is worn out. You can replace the seal but it will blow it right back out.

Junk

I had a guy give me an LA145 John Deere because he had left the key out of the axle. Kept trying to get it to pull without the key and wore the axle down. Luckly, I had another hydro and changed the hydro out. still have not sold it yet. Sorriest paint job I have ever seen. I could scrape the...

Still no spec no.

Model and spec no of engine

Model and spec no. so we can see what you have. Also, equipment model and serial no.

This is where the axle housings bolt to the frame. That says it is the vertical draw bar kit. I have seen that one but don't think it will work.

YTH 24V54 960430188 00 I had to search to find the model no that fit the mower. I found it under model no 960430259 00. To find the model number that showed the anti-torsion brackets.

Does anyone know of a mounting bracket kit for the hydro where it bolts to the frame. Husqvarna YTH 24V54

Thank you Sears L2000 for your kind words. We need more people like you that recognize the people that helped them. They just run off and never respond back. But you know what you told them was the cure for their problem because that is the last time, they reacted to the post. Thanks again!!!!!!!

What kind of engine is it? The model number of the of the engine would be helpful.

It is a horizontal shaft engine.

To get the blower housing off you will need to take the engine off. You may be able to take the screws that hold the blower housing on and slide it back and get some access that way.

I have seen the fitting in the bottom of the tank rust shut and not allow enough fuel to get through to run properly. you cannot stake the hose loose at the fuel pump and check for flow. This mower feeds fuel out the bottom of the tank. you can take the line loose from the fuel pump and get it...

Did you get the cam to crank out of time?.

Try unplugging the O2 sensor and see how it runs.

This engine was built for Electrolux for sears and does not compute through Kohler like JD does. It was a15 hp with a SAM box on it if I remember correctly and that made it a 15.5 hp engine.

Best way to get the valve cover off is to take a 2x4 put it up to the side of the valve cover and hit it with a BFH. May have to hit both sides of the valve cover but it comes off and you don't bend the valve cover like when you try to pry it off

If it is a Command Pro single it probably has hydraulic lifters and are non-adjustable.

Have seen both the output shaft and fly wheel side main seals blow out.

How are you checking the spark?

The spring on reference no.632 hooks in that hole.

. Sounds like you may have a blown governor. Start the engine with governor hooked up. Push the governor arm towards wide open throttle. It should push back against you. If not, it has a blown governor. Fuel in the crank case could have been from the previous carb. But replacing it should have...

Need engine model type and code. It could be the flywheel ring gear missing teeth. If it is a Briggs engine are you sure the battery is hooked up right. If not, it could spin backwards.

Check your engine oil level may have fuel in the crank case.

Try Super Zilla good stuff

Do you know for sure it is a fuel related problem? Try squirting some Gum Out carb cleaner in the throat of the carb when it starts to die. If it keeps running it is a fuel related issue if not Ign.

A lot of universal heads come with various adapters you have to pick the one that matches the threads of the trimmer and change it out in the head.

Looks like someone has put the blades on and did not put the blades on to match the star pattern. Ruining the blade shaft

I don't need your know-it-all attitude. I would gladly do what Taryl said pal but there is no key that holds the gear on the crank shaft. There is no timing mark on the gear either.

I have viewed that as well. Did you read my post? It has no mark on the crank gear or keyway to hold the crank gear on the crank shaft. So that won't work on this engine.

I have seen batteries last for 5 years.

Friend working on a GXV670 engine that has no timing mark on the crank gear or key to hold it on. Anyone know how to time the cam to crank?