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Not necessarily worn but the lobes could of rotated ON the shaft throwing cam timing off. This sounds like a huge cam install in say a drag racing type engine. Tons of valve overlap with the intake charge blowing back out the intake into the carb throat to the air filter. Or the cam in not...

Codes are JUST suggestions only. A good place to start. Most of the time they are related to the issue. Still start with the basics and carry on. Verify each part/module/O2 sensor has PROPER battery voltage and a good clean GROUND. THAT is EFI troubleshooting 101. On cars and trucks, do the...

Make sure, every connection, the pins are all TIGHT and CLEAN. Ohm out across each connector till you find the offender. Wire to wire across the connector. Take your hand and fondle each wiring harness looking for bare copper, rubbing and so on. Battery fully charged......... Would also buy...

Okay that was huge. Nice work on cleaning it up. Just remember circuits need LOAD TESTED. Meaning the full amperage on THAT circuit THEN test it for a voltage drop. If you read 15 Ohms at rest, that will be way higher under load. Probably a pretty fat voltage drop going on. I'd call Kroller...

To me, the cam is dead. Lobes have shifted from where they were from new. New cam time. Pull the cam and look at an online pic of a new one. Compare lobe placement.

Your thermostatic lever off the muffler is all bent up. One of the other guys gave you a PERFECT set of instructions on how to set all this autochoke stuff up. No wonder she won't start with all that carbon plugging up the intake port and who knows about the exhaust port. THIS is EXACTLY why...

WOW, talk about cholesterol my gosh. She is or was packed full of carbon. Never seen one THAT bad. Must of over filled the oil all the time or did a lot of tipping.

Ok, try that on wet grass LOL. Be swimming in no time. Early morning dew is just as bad. Guess you need some rain to be talking wet grass. Freaking powder house where I live.

My friend, do NOT run the engine without the top metal engine shroud installed. These are AIR COOLED ENGINES. That shroud directs cooling air around the block and head/s for cooling. Same as running a car engine without coolant for an hour in dusty conditions. YES, cleaning the cooling fins is...

They make an orange flavor now. Strong as red, easy removal as blue medium.

Is the choke working or staying closed?

Hope you put the engine on the heel of the cam while checking valve lash.

Assuming your compression gauge is accurate AND is MADE FOR SMALL ENGINES........ Amazing it cranks over. Sounds like she is all carboned up inside. That value of 140psi is 9.5:1 compression ratio. Most new Briggs are 8:1'ish. Also sounds like the ACR is not working.

If you have some immediate engine killing event, sounds like something shorting out the ignition coil kill wire/s. The ENTIRE kill wire and safety harness needs looked at and TESTED. Pull the kill wire/s off each coil. Should run the fuel tank dry IF the ignition and everything else is good.

Need to slow down,,,,,,, stop buying all these new parts that don't fix anything. Every part you buy requires testing to make sure it works. New doesn't mean new anymore. So from now on, there is no telling what is actually broken. Half a new mower to test out.

If you can't buy a cj8, cross it over to another brand. Plain old school copper plugs are perfectly fine for mowers. Also recommend non-resistor plugs if you can find them. These weak push mower and tiller types create terribly weak spark. RIP Bertsmobile1. Still helping people to this day...

First place I would start is the battery. Needs LOAD tested. Not some cheap new false negative Ohms reader like Autozone or Oreily's uses. Need a real deal carbon pile tester. Call around and find someone with a carbon pile tester.

For the old wire wound types just spray the outside. For the newer outer lined with say black plastic, do like on a motorcycle. One end in the 30W oil and the other on some for of suction device. Mighty Vac or shop vac......

Also with the head off, if you can rotate the valves in their closed positions with your thumb only, they are net sealing proper or lapped in.

Do NOT use a high speed grinder to grind off the valve tip. It will remove too much material to fast. Then your clearance is too fat. Run it with your HAND on some 150 grit wet/dry paper. Reinstall the valve and recheck your clearance. Might take 5-10 tries. Do NOT get in any hurry doing this on...

https://connectorexperts.com/

We called them dummy cords in the Army. Cut off the plastic OEM teather. Little 550 cord and you are golden.

Right tool for the job.....

Look at the safety switches. Some have a nut to adjust the plunger throw. Might have one or three out of adjustment maybe??

Right, how many people know how to load a grease gun???

So is there a safety that is out of adjustment? Like when the mower hits a bump, something moves and either presses or doesn't press the plunger and kills the spark?

I said insulated stick. Really meant to say fondle the entire harness in a safe manor with the engine on. Gloves with hands inside bend and twist all along each harness. Check for loose fitting connections and such.

Pull the tank and flush it out. Blow it out with shop air and safety glasses. Tank is probably is full of water, grass, leaves, gas caps, engine blocks and so on anyway. Put fresh fuel lines on while you are there.

Not if the owner tried to "fix it". Nothing about that is warranty.

I would look there. Was working fine before you messed with it right?

Check clearance at the red lines.

LOVE the pics. So all this clean'ish look was AFTER you cleaned everything up? THIS is all part of the de-carbon process. Yes valves will need lapped. HEAD and block area where the head sits as well. Still see a lot of carbon around the valve seat slash sealing area. Can't see where it...

No, the right one doesn't have the spring loaded parts WITH O-rings to semi-seal the can. A cap can let the can breathe which will allow oxygen in degrading the fuel faster. Middle spout has everything you want or need. Cap and O-rings to semi-seal the can.

I would leave it alone. The more O2 and trash you let inside the quicker the fuel degrades. Fuel will oxidize off and not stay as fresh.

As Auto Docs said, definitely check plug color. Big 0-turns consume a ton of power. Thin walled mufflers in low light, might be normal. Post pictures of your plugs here.

You know it takes a ton more power to cut wet grass? And with dull blades doesn't help the recipe either. The denser or wider the grass blade the tougher it is to cut.

Some gas caps have a gasket that can break up and fall into the tank. Easily clog the tank outlet or more.

Adding to this. It all starts here fella's. Yes your gas can spout. Most people never talk about this even on here. Middle spout is great. Far right spout is the trouble maker.

New doesn't mean new. Let that percolate a bit. Might take 15 new coils to make/get a good spark. Yes open gap tester is a must. Many ways to do this. Simple 12v test light connected to a clean ground. Can vary the probe or pointed end, in and out of the plug boot. Looking for max gap the...

Look for drag marks ON the fuse legs too. No drag marks = a loose connection creating high resistance pulling extra unwanted amperage.

Did you treat the gas with stabilizer over the winter? Guessing not. Need to pull the battery before it gets cold at your house. Take it inside in a conditioned space. Hook it to a Battery Tender over the winter. Reinstall in the spring. Will make the battery last a lot longer.

For what exactly? Ummm, Ummm, dirt, grass and grit sticks and collects to greases and oils. Again your mower but clean and tight is best. Tight is part of the recipe. How about clean and corrosion free? Clean to bare metal polished with Flitz Metal Polish? Use some star grounding...

Not recommended but it's your mower. Far as loose connections go, make sure each spade terminal makes a DRAG MARK on the male connector. Male is the flat one. Female connector with proper tension will make drag marks on the male connector. Just shoving the connectors together might not provide...

They are made to fail. Sealed bearings with a zerk fitting......

For the most part, pretty chill place. We don't need engine or mower hours and extra fluff. Like I've had thios for 27 years. Got it from Aunt Gertrude after she fell and broke her hip. Get to the point and learn the mower parts lingo. Again welcome one and all.

Actually it's MOWER numbers and ENGINE numbers. More the better to assist people on here to help you. Pictures and videos even better help........ Mower manufacturers do NOT make the engines they install on their mowers. I don't get some forums that are uptight and still have 1987 forum...

At 27 years old, way past time for a de-carbon, valve job, lap head and adjust valves. Get to work. (y):D

Is this mower running or not?

Also on Kawasaki's, don't use a red shop rag to wipe the stick off. There are protrusions that tug fabric fibers and will get into the oil. BLOT with a paper towel or other non residue leaving behind towel. Small potatoes here nothing huge. Keep the oil clean.

I call it parking the dipstick on top of the tube to check oil level. Do not spin it down into the tube as the others stated. Check both sides of the stick for a proper level check. Go with the highest measured oil level. All tires properly aired up. Mower on LEVEL ground. Check the oil...