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NICE JOB sgkent!! The plug on the right is the offender. Look at all the carbon tracking trying to ground out to the base ring of the plug near the threads. Look at the porcelain on both plugs. Notice the left plug looks normal. Recommend making a ground wire for THAT one plug that has the...

Just drain the entire fuel system. He's not working on a container ship here.

Were you on the heel of the cam when you adjusted clearance? Most four stroke engines have 2 TDC strokes.

1.Adjust valves to factory specs for YOUR engine. 2.LOAD test battery. 3.Clean all grounds.

I thought the last miracle research about zinc and phos was that, they did zero for engine wear? Google says zinc is good for hi temps and pressures like old flat tappet cams. Briggs valve springs are easily compressed with your fingers.

Better yet, grade the slope up with some rich mix top soil and 10% compost. Take the steepness out of the slope. It will at least minimize the slope making it safer on a mower. Good chance to level the yard out too.

I wouldn't mow any slope unless it was a full pressure lubed engine mower. Even then check the max slope angle.

I'm seeing more than a drain issue. Tons of rust on those grounding points. Bet the entire block is covered in mud. What cooling fins??? Look above the carb bowl. Got more than one leak going on.

Little detective work and she is mowing again. Nice job.

My canola oil is better than all these combined.

Hope she got it going ok.

Steering wheels or levers, don't see how they do anything for wheel traction. Ears are wide open.

How about the learning how to fix things on your own? Nevermind, don't have time to read forums anymore as he makes too much money.

Stop being soooo lazy. At least attempt to clean the OEM carb.

I would guess at adding any more weight would not be productive.

If unfamiliar to the machine, ask the seller to demonstrate it for you. Don't just buy the mower and take it home.

Yes smell the oil dip stick for a fuel smell. If you smell gas ON the stick, STOP USING IT. Fix the carb then dump the oil a couple times.

He or she was in a hurry.

Need pics and videos please.

I call them real gas and fake gas. Real being 100% unleaded and fake, any form of added Ethanol.

Just drain it out and push fresh 100% unleaded in.

Again the after fire solenoid on the bottom of the carb has ZERO to do with, filling the carb bowl, with fuel.

Find out WHY you have no fuel doing this test. Something is stopping it from moving forward.

You still have to get the proper fuel pressure AND fuel, to you injector. How much fuel pressure do you have and how much are you SUPPOSED to have?

Gator blades are not meant to bag or be any type of high or far discharging of the clippings. They are meant to mulch only. Mulching means weak lift or suction power. Did you notice the voids on the back side of each cutting edge? Those are there to reduce lift. What you want are high lift...

Dude, flush the tank out with gasoline only. Stop it with all the snake oils. More and more alcohols (Heet) will only falter the proper air/fuel ratio. No wonder it will not start and run with an over treated dose of snake oil HEET. Blow all the lines out with shop air. If it doesn't run proper...

Is the compression release working? Did you use an automotive compression tester like for a 350 Chevy for example? OR one for small engines?

Make a youtube video of it running or cranking. Link it here so we can watch it and help you.

What an idiot.

No worries pal. I dislike the new spouts BUT they do I feel, keep the fuel fresher being semi sealed and keeps trash out of the can. Pain in the rump to dispense fuel out of.

Are you serious? Do I need to elaborate further on a proper fuel can spout/nozzle? Since you asked. The right nozzle or spout is WIDE OPEN. Can and will let water, humidity, bugs, grass, leaves and other debris in where they do NOT belong. Every time you fill up the mower, all that trash on...

Is that the max distance the spark jumped? If so the coil is near dead. IF you have a resistor plug then your available spark is even less to the plug gap.

I would ask on here or call Kawasaki and get a shop manual. Look online for a shop manual for your engine. Next time take pictures of the linkage before messing with the carb. Did you hook the throttle cable up to the governor/throttle spring slash linkage? Take a picture showing how you...

There's your dinner. Fuel delivery issue. Mark H_NO gave you good advice that was ignored on page one.. After fire solenoid. Stops fuel flow into the main jet when the key is turned off. Prevents fuel from getting into the hot muffler lighting off making gun shot sounds. Has nothing to do...

Tells me the coil is near dead and needs replaced. Best time to check spark is at night. Push it outside the garage and watch for spark color and gap jumping distance. Yellow is faint. Blue or purple is what you want.

Yes. Clean and flush the ENTIRE fuel system. Blow out all hard lines with shop air. Any horizontal hard lines that make a 90 degree bend going up or vertical can form dirt blockages IN the 90 degree bend. Obviously restrict the flow of Diesel TO the injectors in your case. Make sure your...

Typically a puff on startup is dead valve seals. Smoking all the time is rings. Course could be a combo of other things too. Most likely from lack of maintenance. Dirt/grit getting by the air filter killing the rings. Every mower engine does it. Every used mower I get, pull the carb off and look...

Did you get this thing running proper yet? If so what was the fix action?

If it was mine, I would remove the drain hose and put a plug in it. MY LUCK, all the bouncing around mowing that hose would come off and lose all the oil. Back to your question. I would route the hose draining end above the engine block oil port.

Keep your OEM carb. Many a video on youtube that shows you exactly how to clean one out. Search for Railey's Small Engines. T-Bone has several perfect videos for you.

Especially any Honda push mower. They are sooo quiet and hardly use any gas. All because they are set to 2500rpm out of the box. Crank them to 3600rpm and they roar right along like the rest. I set at 3600 for max lubrication, durability, longevity and cooling. Just as Briggs and the rest state to.

I hope, which is all I can do, that you cleaned off the carb and area around the carb prior to removing the carb. You can see all that sandy grit which can and will get inside your engine. Kind of like at the hospital when a surgery is done. Everything is cleaned and prepped prior to cutting...

Possible dirt and trash in the fuel tank. Possible non venting gas cap. Possible failed internally gas line. Plugged up carb jets and emulsion tube. Possible carb float level height that is rarely mentioned about on here. Possible never had valve clearance checked. Possible using an open top...

Post a video on youtube and link it here. Want to see on your DEAD COLD engine, specifically the choke plate, in operation for at least 2 minutes.

On these Briggs autochokers, takes about 20-30'ish seconds before the choke plate moves OFF of fully closed. About a rough minute'ish later, choke plate should be fully open and stay open while the thermostat lever is hot from the muffler heat.

New doesn't mean it works, as new. Just stating the obvious. Most people look at purchase time trying to equate some level of quality.

I'm not a huge fan of RTV either. Most have vinegar or something similar that is acidic. Would guess on aluminum parts not a good recipe.

That statement doesn't make sense.

https://shop.briggsandstratton.com/pages/parts-lookup#/Briggs_%26_Stratton/104M02-0010-F1/Camshaft%2c_Crankshaft%2c_Cylinder%2c_Gasket_Set%2c_Piston%2f%2fRings%2f%2fConnecting_Rod%2c_Sump%2c_Warning_Label/104M020010F1/105100002A/y

PLASTIC CAM ALERT!!!!! Just looked his cam up here. https://www.briggsstrattonstore.com/briggs-stratton-part-594090/