V-Twin Cylinder Head Interchangeability

BWH · 2025-08-30T15:29:58-0400

I am rebuilding a 1991 Briggs and Stratton 14 hp horizontal shaft v-twin model # 294447 on a 614 Grasshopper mower. When I purchased it one cylinder was dead, and it was spitting oil out the crankcase ventilation tube which was no longer returning to the air breather but just venting out the side. There was no smoke or oil coming out of the muffler and when I removed the muffler no oil residue was noted in the #1 cylinder exhaust side. After I tore it down I found an exhaust valve on the #1 cylinder head stuck open due to the valve guide sliding out of the head holding the valve open allowing compression to travel down the valve stem journal. I would try to reset the valve guide but I have been told this was an issue with these engines and resetting them even pinging them usually ends in it popping out again, has anyone had luck resetting these valve guides?

My question to the group is interchangeability of cylinder heads, I know that during the time frame of these engines the 12, 14 & 16 hp engines were the same block with the same bore and stroke with carburation being the only difference in the HP. I am wondering if the cylinder heads are interchangeable. I have a good set of cylinder heads off an 18 hp Briggs and Stratten V Twin the same vintage (slightly larger bore), unfortunately it was blown up so I salvaged everything I could but did not save the engine nameplate. I have set them on my block, and the bolt pattern bolts up perfectly. The head gaskets are identical with the exception of the cylinder bore the 18 hp gaskets are 2.90" bore vs 2.72" bore for the 14 hp. I'm not sure which head gasket set to use.

I would appreciate any information or experience on this matter. Thanks

sgkent · 2025-08-30T15:46:46-0400

the engine number you gave is only a part of the full number. I looked up one of those engines and the two heads are still available new. Looking at Ebay, Amazon and Briggs, depending on the seller and who knows the background on the head(s) typically $150 to $230 each.

Valve guides are an interference fit. If the guide bore measures stock you could put a new guide in it, ream it, then shoot the seats so they are concentric with the new guide. If you lack the equipment, you will pay a machine shop as much as a new head. If the bores are oversize from overheating then you would need to find oversize guides, ream the bores to the correct size and put them in, ream and shoot the seats to be concentric with the guide. Again, if you lack the proper tools it will cost you to pay a machinist.

BWH · 2025-08-30T16:00:44-0400

Yes, it's actually 294447 0410-01 91060411
4973

Thanks for the info that definitely is an option, I was just trying to save the $300 - $400 but may have to go that route.

Question I was also searching for a piston ring set (compression and oil rings, standard) but everything I'm finding is piston/ring sets which is around $90 a side. My pistons are good shape so all I need is the two compression rings and the oil rings.

Auto Doc's · 2025-08-30T16:39:34-0400

Hello BWH,

Just driving the guide back into position will not work for long. I've tried that, unfortunately.

The casting number has to match, and B&S was not always consistent with cast numbers. Used heads will likely have this problem as well. This was simply a bad design from B&S that has had problems for years. Failure to clean the cooling fins regularly causes overheating just makes the problem happen quicker.

Terryl Fixes on You Tube all has a good video about correcting slipped valve guides by removing the guide and then drilling the casting, tapping threads and then installing a set screw to lock in the valve guide. It's not a very difficult process and has worked for me on quit a few cylinder heads over the years.

The only other needed service is to make sure you re-level/resurface the head gasket mounting surface by sanding it with fine sandpaper on a true flat surface such as tempered glass. A steel work bench never has a true flat surface.

Of course, replace the valve seals.

Hope this helps you.

sgkent · 2025-08-30T17:24:45-0400

i looked for ring sets and almost all have a new piston with them. Only issue is that the specs don't show if std or oversize. One seller had sets of factory rings for $60 each set. Some rebuild kits about $200 also had them and all the gaskets. But they do not say STD or oversize. A close up of one of the pistons showed the M trademark, which is Mahle so maybe the factory pistons are made by Mahle. With careful measurement you might be able to find a set of rings the right size and width. Good luck.

Auto Doc's · 2025-08-31T06:01:57-0400

Ebay has quite a bit of new and used for this engine.

Auto Doc's · 2025-08-31T06:11:46-0400

BWH said:
Yes, it's actually 294447 0410-01 91060411
4973

Thanks for the info that definitely is an option, I was just trying to save the $300 - $400 but may have to go that route.

Question I was also searching for a piston ring set (compression and oil rings, standard) but everything I'm finding is piston/ring sets which is around $90 a side. My pistons are good shape so all I need is the two compression rings and the oil rings.

Hi BWH,

If the heads are as far as you have gotten and the cylinder walls & piston tops look good, leave well enough along and don't make more work for yourself by opening up the entire engine to "re-ring it".

It is not as simple a watching a couple of You Tube videos.

Lots of people go down this path without the repair information, experience or the tools to tackle such repairs. Very few succeed. That is not meant to scare anyone, that is reality.

Auto Doc's · 2025-08-31T06:19:43-0400

BWH said:
I am rebuilding a 1991 Briggs and Stratton 14 hp horizontal shaft v-twin model # 294447 on a 614 Grasshopper mower. When I purchased it one cylinder was dead, and it was spitting oil out the crankcase ventilation tube which was no longer returning to the air breather but just venting out the side. There was no smoke or oil coming out of the muffler and when I removed the muffler no oil residue was noted in the #1 cylinder exhaust side. After I tore it down I found an exhaust valve on the #1 cylinder head stuck open due to the valve guide sliding out of the head holding the valve open allowing compression to travel down the valve stem journal. I would try to reset the valve guide but I have been told this was an issue with these engines and resetting them even pinging them usually ends in it popping out again, has anyone had luck resetting these valve guides?

My question to the group is interchangeability of cylinder heads, I know that during the time frame of these engines the 12, 14 & 16 hp engines were the same block with the same bore and stroke with carburation being the only difference in the HP. I am wondering if the cylinder heads are interchangeable. I have a good set of cylinder heads off an 18 hp Briggs and Stratten V Twin the same vintage (slightly larger bore), unfortunately it was blown up so I salvaged everything I could but did not save the engine nameplate. I have set them on my block, and the bolt pattern bolts up perfectly. The head gaskets are identical with the exception of the cylinder bore the 18 hp gaskets are 2.90" bore vs 2.72" bore for the 14 hp. I'm not sure which head gasket set to use.

I would appreciate any information or experience on this matter. Thanks

The bolts usually line up, but the 14HP head gasket has to match the 18HP head combustion chamber exact. If not, a gasket failure will happen.

V-Twin Cylinder Head Interchangeability

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