Issues with pto (solved)

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bertsmobile1

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Bearrepair said:
Thanks for all the feedback this has been a great learning experience for me! I already ordered the diods and will have a couple spares just in case for later. I hope to have it ready for spring as im a hobby mechanic and make side money foxing things and its been fun and rewarding! But ive never asked for help until this issue most things i was able to figure out but we are only human and sometimes need the knowledge of others to continue forward!
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That is why we are here to help & also learn.
Like Star I have added some to my next electrical parts order .
I found one listed for Cub and it was $ 42 wholesale so $ 5 worth is a good investment if I can charge $ 20 and save the customer $ 20 .
Otherwise you are looking at a full loom and that is in the hundreds .
 
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closecut

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A 1N4007 diode will wok just fine.It has a 1000volt peak reverse voltage.Here is a link to diodes on Amazon.Cheap as dirt.The negative end has a line on it,put this to the positive end of the solenoid..it should only conduct when the reverse spike arrives,hence the reverse connection.You may have to purchase more than you want,but they are cheap.I have used these diodes on golf carts,mowers,tractors,and lots of other machinery for the same purpose.
 
StarTech

StarTech

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closecut said:
A 1N4007 diode will wok just fine.It has a 1000volt peak reverse voltage.Here is a link to diodes on Amazon.Cheap as dirt.The negative end has a line on it,put this to the positive end of the solenoid..it should only conduct when the reverse spike arrives,hence the reverse connection.You may have to purchase more than you want,but they are cheap.I have used these diodes on golf carts,mowers,tractors,and lots of other machinery for the same purpose.
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So you saying a 1 amp, 30 surge amp diode replaces a 6 amp, 400 surge amp diode?
1712405205115.png

OEM used a 6amp, 400a surge for a reason.
 
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Freddie21

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The white ring on the diode is the cathode, or negative end. As far as the replacement goes, if wires are attached and you can't see the ring, the black wire should be the cathode. The red wire is the anode or positive end. If you can get the raw diode by itself, it will be much cheaper. Most of the time, you can go one of equal physical size, or larger, if the specs are not known.
 
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StarTech said:
So you saying a 1 amp, 30 surge amp diode replaces a 6 amp, 400 surge amp diode?
View attachment 68233

OEM used a 6amp, 400a surge for a reason.
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Yes.The diode I recommend is better than the oem.
The oem is the minimum to do the job, and the cheapest.It also allows them to sell more parts.Look at the price for the replacement parts that cost only pennies each.Lots of companies making lots of money due to the dumbing down of society.Replace a wiring harness because of one bad diode?Ba! Humbug!
It is the voltage that kills a diode.The pulse does not last long enough to create the wattage needed to blow the diode.I have used this replacement for many years with no repeat failures.Take it for what it is worth.
 
StarTech

StarTech

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closecut said:
Yes.The diode I recommend is better than the oem.
The oem is the minimum to do the job, and the cheapest.It also allows them to sell more parts.Look at the price for the replacement parts that cost only pennies each.Lots of companies making lots of money due to the dumbing down of society.Replace a wiring harness because of one bad diode?Ba! Humbug!
It is the voltage that kills a diode.The pulse does not last long enough to create the wattage needed to blow the diode.I have used this replacement for many years with no repeat failures.Take it for what it is worth.
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Something just not right about replacing a 400a surge with a 30a surge rated diode. Yes the voltage rating can be higher but doesn't affect the amp rating.

Besides the one I recommended is a 1000V unit which would make a better replacement than the 1N4007.
1712491266850.png
 
StarTech

StarTech

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Freddie21 said:
The white ring on the diode is the cathode, or negative end. As far as the replacement goes, if wires are attached and you can't see the ring, the black wire should be the cathode. The red wire is the anode or positive end. If you can get the raw diode by itself, it will be much cheaper. Most of the time, you can go one of equal physical size, or larger, if the specs are not known.
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If you had looked at the OP wiring you would seen that he doesn't have a red wire at the PTO. Instead he has a black wire with white tracer for positive side and a black wire for the negative side.
 
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The 700 volts is the maximum constant supply voltage that it can handle.
The PRV is the reverse voltage it can handle.The reverse spike is a very short,sharp, low wattage,high voltage surge.Look at the spike on an oscilloscope,you will see what I mean.You do have an oscilloscope,don't you?
My experience(over 50 years in electronics) has led me to this replacement over the OEM standard-designed-to fail,sell more parts replacement.I have seen NO REPEAT FAILURES.If the OEM was 1N4007 it would never fail at all,unless a case of direct lightning strike nearby, caused by an induced EMP from the strike.(Electro Magnetic Pulse). The 1N4007 is rated for 1000volts PRV.
 
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