Recent content by slomo

Best way to remove carbon is heat. Meaning temperature heat here. Not the gimmick in a bottle to remove water in the gas tank. Just like cleaning your oven in the kitchen. If you bake something and turn the oven off, immediately start cleaning with soap and water. The food comes off much...

Carb float height excessive?

Ok so most everything mechanical sounds like it's working as normal. Dump the gas and try some fresh E-0 unleaded juice. Wonder if someone, has been in the carb with a welding torch tip cleaner enlarging the main jet/s? Choke staying wide open once warm?

Are they resistor plugs? What is the resistance measurement through the plugs? Run some non resistor plugs. I try to cross over non resistors for all my OPE. How large of a gap will the coil fire? Fouling plugs can be weak spark. How about cam timing at the cam gear? Far as the muffler...

Back slamming out of the carb is improper ignition timing, super lean air/fuel mix, valves out of spec or weak spark.

Just so we all know, a circuit with no amperage flow shows a drastic difference (voltage drop) compared to a loaded to the fuse rated one. IF there are issues on said circuit that is.

Not for nuth in' but most every push mower has one. When you let go of the dead man lever, the brake pad stops the flywheel.

Check the valves or most likely carb needle flooding the cylinder. Pull the oil dip stick and smell for gasoline. If you smell gas, fix the carb first then dump the oil a few times. Do NOT try and run it with gasoline diluted oil. It will trash the engine. Or you have tall grass chaff...

Summation, all circuits require LOAD testing. Totally agree. As in a 10 amp circuit needs 10 amps for a full health check on said circuit.

Check the main ground and the ground to the EFI module. Those EFI boxes are picky about proper power and grounds. STOP replacing parts until you get it running. Every new part you buy REQUIRES testing. New doesn't mean new these days. Should be nothing wrong with a fuel filter at 32 hours...

Hope the fuel filter caught the debris you blew out.

He probably had the key ON when he connected the battery cables. Little spark jumped a bit. Maybe he has headlights that come on with the key???? Or the solenoid is shorted closed slash welded from amperage strikes when the key goes to start??? OP doesn't know what a solenoid is. Probably...

No.

Pull the starter and bench test it. LISTEN to the starter turn over. Should sound plenty strong.

To me this is a slow cranker. Check the main ground at both ends. Clean down to bare metal. Use grounding washers. This had a new battery and starter/solenoid right?

Did this ever get fixed? What was the fix action if so?

Did this ever get fixed? What was the fix action if so?

Pull the kill wire off the ignition coil. IF the coil is good, should drain the fuel tank dry. Unless you have a fuel issue that is.

THIS is the first thing to check. Fix the carb then dump the oil and filter a couple times. Looking is not a true test of the needle to seat seal. Needs pressure tested just like the needle and seat are ran under gravity pressure in normal ops. You can adjust plastic floats. If you are careful...

As in PRIOR to EVERY mow.

Need to ask why the push rods got bent.

Your stream is not working.

I know on some engines like Briggs, if you pull the top shroud off to clean the cooling fins, that top metal shroud might not be installed correctly. There is a flap cover deal that directs cooling air that the top shroud needs to fit over the tab deal to hold this flap proper. If installed...