Recent content by Rivets

Before bad mouthing anything, take it back and have the mechanic take a look at it. At a good repair shop and in a reasonable time periID, most good shops will replace a defective part under warranty. Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve run into defective parts.

Before doing anything more remove the key and bolt. Then take some medium/fine abrasive paper and polish the crankshaft until it is smooth and shiny. Wipe clean with an oily rag and the sump cover should slide right off.

This is the trimmer I recommend to anyone that asks. I bought this 8 years ago and have had absolutely no problems, and I’ve abused it. I don’t know if this model is still available, but Echo is the only way I will go. https://www.echo-usa.com/trimmers-brushcutters/srm-266

This service manual should answer all your questions. https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tecumseh-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/TECUMSEH-SERVICE--REPAIR-MANUAL-OHH50-65-OHHSK50-130-OHV11-OHV17-OVM120-OVRM40-675-OVRM120-OVXLC120-OVXL120-OVXL125-695244A.pdf

This service manual will explain how to adjust the governor. https://www.georgiaffa.org/docs/sidemodules/57817_Honda%20Repair%20Manual%20for%20GCV%20135-160-190%20&%20GSV%20190%20(1).pdf

Check your RPMs, if it is running below 3400, adjust. Running below the clippings will not be cut or thrown out properly.

This is the procedure I use. Report back with your findings and we’ll work from there. Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1. How well you understand basic electricity. 2. What tools you have and know how to use. 3. How well you follow...

Thank you for educating me, I’ve always called that the front axle, learned something new today. Normally they should move freely, but I’ve seen a few where a bit of spray lube helps out.

Would you please explain what you mean by pivot bar? I’ve been working on equipment for over 50 years and have never heard that term on the front of a unit. This is probably why no one has responded.

I see I no need for the average DIY guy to purchase one of the expensive testers, which he will use as once or twice. I’ve used the simple neon tester for ever and have not had any problems. Do have one in my box, but I would be lying if i told you the last time I used it.

Maybe this manual will help you diagnose the problem. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Command-CH11-CH12.5-CH14.pdf

The kill wire I’m referring to is the wire attached to the coil. I made NO mention of the seat kill switch, which until you test the coil kill makes no sense in talking about.

Front wheel drive mowers are probably the worst mowers for steep inclines. Not much you can do to solve this issue.

Today’s coils cannot be tested without an expensive piece of equipment. If you are getting no spart through your inline tester, remove the shroud and then remove the kill wire from the coil. If you still have no spark, the experienced tech on this site will tell you to replace the coil.

Get yourself an inline spark tester and the next time it happens install the tester and check for spark. I suspect you will find no spark. You have either a hot short ot hot open, which means the coil will need to be replaced.