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The parts you need are just the air filter cover and air filter. Part numbers 245 & 250 on the diagram I posted. The only reason you would need the other parts post, were if you are going to completely remove and rebuild the carb...

You can call it a clutch, but if you look closely you will see that it nothing more than a CV drive where the more tension you put on the handle, the faster the unit will drive and the blade will engage with very little tension on the handle. Take a look at the manual I posted earlier to see...

Here is the service manual for those drive systems, but I don’t recommend trying to work on it unless you have a better than average mechanical ability. https://www.toro.com/getpub/22446

When was the last time the belt was changed? I’m guessing that it is time to replace it. Please post the model and serial numbers, I should be able to find you a part number and service manual. Slomo, if you knew a little more about the GTS models, you would know they do not have a clutch.

IPL lists the ignition switch as part number 725-13425, which is what your part number 725-06102B should suppercede to.

Are you sure you installed the correct switch? Many look the same, but if you look at the back of the switch, terminals are different. If you want more help, when you post back, be sure to include the model and serial numbers of the unit and the part number of the new switch.

When was the last time the drive belt was changed and the pulleys and idlers were serviced? If it was more than three years ago I would be replacing the drive belt and making sure all parts of the drive system are moving freely and in good condition. Star just beat me in posting a parts...

From my investigation your carb has a Husqvarna part number of 538408201, but is only available in Europe. This is why you won’t find it available in the US. My suggestion is to contact Husqvarna directly or the distributor you obtain your Husqvarna parts from.

First, you need a new mechanic. In my 50+ years of repairing engines I’ve never heard of a fuel leak being fixed by replacing a primer bulb. This guy is the reason small engine techs get a bad reputation. I wouldn’t let him work on my grand daughter’s plastic mower. If this came to me, this...

Two products I’ve used in John Deere units. I prefer the Bentonite because it is a clay base and doesn’t breakdown as easily as the JD grease. John Deere part #AM119608 Tecumseh Bentonite part #788067A/B/C

First, find another JD dealer, yours don’t know $),0=#%. Most D100 units have a transmission which use grease not oil as a lubricant. Since you don’t post the model and serial numbers, located behind the left rear wheel, I can’t tell you exactly what type of lubricant you need. I’m guessing...

Mower model and serial numbers are under the bagger discharge cover. First, I think you got taken by that “mechanic”. You say he replaced both the primer bulb and carb. A new carb will have the primer bulb installed, no need to replace. Second, from the picture, I’m 90% sure that the carb is...

Please provide us with the model and serial numbers for your mower, so we have an idea of which of the 25+ different setups Toro mower you have. Second, where is the fuel leaking, tank, carb, manifold or fuel line.

I see that you have been around this forum for 10+ years, and have posted 5 threads. I think you wound know that we need model numbers before we can help you.

Two things I would be checking with this problem. First, what size battery do you have n this unit? With an engine that large you need a battery with at least 350CCA. Second, check all connections in the starting circuit. I’d be looking for a loose, dirty or bad connection, particularly in...

Does your mom’s cousin’s, sister’s neighbor smoke, if not then the cause is good upbringing.

I’ll take the bad grammar anytime over the people who fail to provide us with the info we need to help them. They then get mad when we don’t provide the answers they want to hear. Thegrammarpolice are locatedontheSocialTruth forum

That is the big question, as everyone is going to be different. Best to get on the phone and check with your local shops, as labor rates are different and it will also depend on how busy they are.

Glad to hear life is good. May I suggest that you change to oil after about 5 hours of use to remove any debris from the sump. Totally up to you.

I’m betting that you will find a parcially sheared fly wheel key.

This manual will tell you how to properly check and troubleshoot the charging system. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FH601D-FH641D-FH680D-FH721D-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL-99924206002.pdf

Have more questions than answers. Before ordering any parts please help us. 1. Please supply us with all engine numbers. 2. Did you measure the cylinders with a telescoping and vernier? Two measurements at top, middle and bottom, 90 degrees apart. This will tell us if you need to go with...

To me it’s a classic example of a blown head gasket. Since you say you had the heads off I suspect 1 of 3 causes. Head and block surfaces not cleaned properly or head warped. Reused the head gaskets, that’s a NO, NO. Head gaskets not torqued in proper sequence or torque.

MTD now builds the Cub Cadet brand so anything you purchase with that name on it will not be of the quality you used to expect from them.

Can’t be raised, must be removed. Since you didn’t supply us with the model and serial numbers for the unit, I’ve just attacked the newest service manual to help you out. https://www.toro.com/getpub/182206

I suggest you take the brake material and arm to a good body shop. They will have the best glue available for jobs like this.

I hope that when you said you honed the cylinder “as smooth as glass” you didn’t mean shiny smooth. If you have no cross hatching your new rings will not seal properly and you’ll soon be burning oil.

If it came to me the first thing I would do is pull the float bowl and see what the condition of the carb is. If it was sitting that long debris in the carb may have float around clogging the jets.

I suggest you start by adjusting the valve clearance first. This service manual will help you with that. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FC290V-FC400V-FC401V-FC420V-FC540V-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf

Before trying to circumvent the electrical system to solve the problem, I suggest you go through the electrical troubleshooting procedures listed in this service manual first. Can you do what you are suggesting, yes anytime is possible, but the fuel injector solenoid is run through a control...

Make sure you installed the proper replacement PTO switch. They may look the same, but terminal may be different. This I’d especially true if you purchased off FleaBay or AutoScam.

Any good repair shop should be able to get this part for you. https://www.partstree.com/parts/kawasaki-92055-0892/

Because you were able to free it up using a block of wood and hammer, I suspect that the rings are fine and that the rod was probably frozen on the crankshaft. If you get it running I suggest you change the oil after 2 hours use to remove any debris in the oil. No need to put any oil in the...

If you try putting oil in the cylinder do it very sparingly. Now that it is free really don’t need to, as the engine oil will start doing its job. To much oil at this point will not allow the plug to fire.

Thank you Star, it come so natural that I forgot about that.

Sounds to me that the mower was run without oil. After it seized the user put in fresh oil to hide their mistake. Sometimes these units can be saved, but your odds are 50/50. If you want to give it a try, this is what I would do. You really have nothing to lose. 1. Remove the spark plug. 2...

First thing to do is check the oil level, no oil probably seized. Has oil may be seized, but need to check further. Remove the spark plug and try again with no plug. If it turns over reinstall plug and try again. Let us know the results of you tests and we’ll tell you how to proceed. When...

This is the tool I use, but it doesn’t work you’ll have to install a heli-coil as stated...

If you are getting 0 VDC you will need to start checking all connections between the key switch and the solenoid, this includes all safety switches. Before doing that check to see if you have 12VDC at the B terminal on the key switch. IF 0 VDC at the terminal of the key switch, you’ll have to...

Have you tried using a nickel instead of a quarter, sorry I couldn’t resist. Have you tried bending the edges of the foot down a bit with a pliers to close the gap and increase the tension on the leg.

Provide us with model and serial numbers so we can identify which unit you have. The good techs on this site hate guessing.

5 hours, then use whatever oil you would like to use.

I have found that sometimes using a torx wrench will grab. Not best way to do it, but sometimes you need to think out of the box.

When I run into a unit like yours I remove the battery and then I use jumper cables to reattach the battery wires to the battery terminals. This allows me to access the solenoid for testing. Second, if you are not getting voltage past the solenoid you won’t have voltage to activate the fuel...

Change after 5 hours and you’re ready to go for the season. Today’s valves and rings on small engines don’t need multiple changes for breakin. Save your $$$$, oils going to get expensive.

First thing I would be checking are the battery terminals for cleanliness and tightness. Second would be the ground to chassis connection, clean and tightness. Here is the troubleshooting procedure I use. Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1...

Before digging deeper into the possible causes, I would check the valve clearances on all valves. It does sound like a fuel issue, but let’s look at the easy things first.

This site has the carb you will need, but I recommend a little more research before spending $$$ on it. I’ve seen this many times and most often I’ve found the a good carb cleaning and replacing the float needle and seat solves the problem...

Please give us the model and serial numbers off the silver tag on the rear of the engine If this site doesn’t help you. https://www.partstree.com/models/20057-toro-super-recycler-walk-behind-mower-sn-260000001-260999999-2006/air-cleaner-assembly-briggs-and-stratton-122672-0192-e1-0/

West of Lake Michigan, east of the Mississippi River, south of Lake Superior and north or the noisy state. Sorry that’s as close as you get. Got to keep some things quiet.