Recent content by l008com

You know what would SIGNIFICANTLY help prevent this? If stores actually posted pictures of the parts, instead of using a generic B&S logo as the image for this thing. MOST websites including ebay selling these seals use the logo instead of a real photo. No wonder there is confusion.

My yard was a real mess when I bought my house, 11 years later, it is looking good. Now it looked good the last few years, so it didn't take me a full 11 years to turn it around. ALSO we've had a very rainy spring so far, which is why it looks exceptionally good at this very moment. Still...

The more people I contact, the more contradicting info I find. I emailed B&S through their parts website and I got a reply that said 'uh oh i think our stock is wrong, we'll get back to you' . It is very annoying.

So when I search for the valve seal part number (590534), I'm finding both seals types, the one that fits my machine, and the one that doesnt. Do they have two different parts with the same part number? How do you differentiate? Example: 590534 But then: 590534

The model number is in the previous reply. And 590534 is the part number i ordered that seems to be wrong. Where would one find the date code?

Ok I looked up my motor number again (09P7020144F1) and looked up the valve seal part number (590534) and what I see on jackssmallengines looks like the original, not the one I bought. But I didn't buy from jacks, I bought on ebay. But the part is supposed to be an OEM part and it came sealed...

Ok I got the valves out, i was stock on removing the caps but they came right off, then the sliding clips came right off, and now I'm all good. Well, except for this . . . The old valve seal vs the new one, they sure do look different. Whats up with that? I ordered via part number so it should...

I already did this once last year but I guess I forgot because I can't figure it out. Normally you just push and slide but that doesn't seem to be working here. This is a 675 model off of a craftsman lawnmower. Theres the retaining clip that holes the spring on, then theres the little cap that...

Well, by "these" I mean "this", just one cylinder. How does this look? Good? Bad? Soso?

On my mom's lawnmower, the end of the drive cable snapped. Its an older machine so if one snapped, the other is probably close. So I was going to replace both. But I was looking at this today. So the cable that snapped is the one with the spiral housing around it. if you unbolt this clamp...

Update: I fired the machine up today and it started pretty easily and seemed to run well. I let it run for about 15 minutes. It was very cold out today, about 32°. I had sprayed fogging oil in the cylinder so there was a normal big cloud of smoke at first, but that went away after a couple of...

Well then fingers crossed I really don't need a new engine! I suppose the best option if I did would be to buy the harbor freight engine and bring it to a machine shop and see if they could mill the shaft somehow to make it fit

That would be perfect for what I'm looking for. Because not only do I want a high and low forward, and a reverse, but I also want to put an open differential on this machine so I can actually take corners without the worlds worse understeer. AND I want to hook it up to my factory CVT. It would...

"Now some do have a multi speed differentials as you choose low, high, and reverse ranges." tell me more about THAT. The MOST ideal solution for me would be some type of gearbox that has a normal forward, a low range forward, and a reverse, all hooked up to a regular old automatic CVT belt drive!

So what do you do? Is there really no way to replace the motor if it was dead? Or would I have to try to transplant this one's crankshaft into a different motor?