Recent content by keakar

well i got the carb cleaned out. the carb was clean enough to eat out of, but there was a piece of grass like trash in the fuel inlet tube just before the float needle clogging it up. after it was all cleaned out and i tested it, i was shocked just how little flow there is in those tiny jets...

ok i found a video that shows my setup and explained how it all works off the muffler temp and how it should move so now i know that the throttle can be all the way forward on these engines without worrying about it applying the choke at all this is the video showing how they work in case...

i have the governor spring and it seems to work good now but the engine starts and runs for about 20-25 seconds then just dies im assuming its a fuel issue with a stuck float so i will have to pull it apart to clean it only thing im not sure of is if the throttle connected to operating the...

sorry it took me so long to reply, i have been busy there is a purple wire in the loom that goes out the hole towards the engine all you need to do is cut that purple wire right around where the small red battery wire goes into the harness by that white plug and splice a new wire onto it and...

it seems like they all do at some point. i dont like bypassing safeties but i never could resolve if it was the blade safety, deck safety, or rear axle safety or a combination of more then one that was the issue so i solved the problem my own way and it seems this is only an issue on the turtle...

ya i mean its kinda crazy how they use such a weak wimpy engine on them now but all the newer turtle style mowers had these engines. the older ones never had anything less then a 10hp on them used to be 25" deck - 8hp, 28" deck - 10hp, 30" deck - 13hp now its 28" deck gets that weak 10lbs...

damnit man you jinxed me, my dads turtle just did the same thing as yours was doing, no matter what you did, letting foot off the brake it just dies, whether in gear or not, blade on or off, it didnt matter. of 8 turtles i have owned, this makes 4 of them i had to bypass the safety kill switch...

well the older 25" mowers came with the B&S 8hp the 28" had the B&S 10hp and the 30" often had the kohler 13.5hp on the newer mowers now they are almost exclusively 28" with B&S 11.5hp and i have two of the 33" and one has the B&S 12.5hp and the other has the B&S 11.5hp i was thinking too...

white smoke is often a sign of flooding. try this, loosen the carb so it isnt touching the engine and hs a gap, then watch it and see if it starts dripping gas from carb saying its flooding. chances are the float needle isnt sealing to shut off the gas when its full

?????? its on a rear engine 28" deck riding mower and normally they have a 10hp on the 28" decks like this one so thats why i thought it was a 10hp the 33" deck rer mowers usually have 11.5hp engines on them but the 25" decks do sometimes have the 8hp engines

first it only needs to be the one of those wires that goes to the kill wire for the magneto i just seem to always pick the wrong one, so i just cut both to save time lol. you are just eliminating the kill switch circuit on the mower and going straight from ignition switch to the magneto coil...

yes it will, i have put up to 17hp inteks on them from troy builts, when i needed an engine, i just buy a murray or craftsman riding mower with bad deck and then take the 13 hp & 14hp engines off them to replace a bad engine for the snapper. any intek from 8hp up to 19hp will fit, mount...

yep, its a really easy thing to do to replace the head gasket its a fairly common failure

honestly i have 4 of those turtle mowers and 2 of them had endless kill switch issues, one would randomly shut off just when turning, and the other would just shut off when you hit a bump. i cut the two purple wires coming from the key switch inside the harness under the seat next to the brake...

ah, ok i thought it was such a tiny engine to be 10hp, but it says 10.00 on the sticker the way they play games with those engine numbers now, its hard to tell what they are