Recent content by ILENGINE

Try starting the engine, and with the direction selector in N move the speed selector to 6 or 7 and let the clutch out. then push the clutch back down, move the speed selector to a slower speed, and then put it in F or R and see if it will move.

I think is started out with furry little critter syndrome that resulted in an electric short.

Unless something is lodged in the valve then that isn't the problem. I have seen cases with some of the newer low emission fuel lines where the plastic liner comes loose and will block the fuel line off also. Will usually show as a soft spot in the fuel line if you pinch it with your fingers...

Have you checked the fuel tank for debris that could be plugging off the fuel outlet.

The rest of the story. This is not a factory warranty, this is a store return that was purchased by the customer 2 years ago and the customer purchased the extended warranty. I don't do extended warranties. The person that originally called me and lied about it being factory warranty...

It could be something as simple as a bare spot on the kill wire where it could be rubbing on a metal part of the engine.

Your description of the problem leans very heavily on a blown head gasket.

I am not sure what all you have removed. But from the diagrams you may need to remove the grass cover from the blower housing so you can remove the rotating screen before the housing comes off.

Most push mowers have the filter built into the tank.

I won't use the red filter on anything. Too course of filtering and have had enough debris get through to hold the float valve open. White for gravity flow systems, and the 40 micron 84001895 for fuel pump systems. Or the 12 050 01-S for larger engines.

Or smells like gas but burns at the speed of kerosene.

Rare but I have been wondering the same thing. Is a gasket blocking the bowl vent causing a siphoning effect.

Had the same thing happen at a station in my area several years ago Around 20 vehicles involved and several that didn't even ,make it out of the gas station lot.

Remove the blower housing and disconnect the single wire going to the module and rerun the test. If it sparks 4 times and then quits then replace the ignition module 12 584 04-S

That wire goes to an accessory that you do not have on your mower Just extra wire. You should be looking for a two spade automotive type fuse. Most likely the fuse holder could be clipped to a piece of sheet metal in that area around the battery. Sometimes depending how they are clipped can...

You can try it. Worse thing that could happen is it dies from fuel starvation with half a tank of gas.

Possible it hydrolocked from leaking fuel or other issues. If it does it again remove the spark plug and see if it will crank. Any liquid in the cylinder will spray out. And be careful about spraying fuel because it can create static charge and ignite the fuel.

40 micron could, be not guaranteed to cause flow restriction issues causing the tank to not completely empty. I was seeing some flow restriction issues on riders with gravity flow carbs on riders newer than 2012 when attempting to use 40 micron filters. Part of that issue is due to the...

Correct it won't freewheel. Also that pin could also get into something that you don't want and cause other issues.

having fat finger issues this morning. Just either mistyped or was misthinking when I posted above with the part numbers. Actually the like alerted me to my mistake so Thank You. I have went back and corrected my original post.

I came across one picture of what is supposed to be a 16100-z431010-0009 and it showed an electric choke.

The 24 584 45-S is replaced by 24 584 201-S is the correct part numbers.

Or it isn't a cross and is actually a different carb.

When I put that part number into Dixie/Gardner I am not seeing that part number. What pops up is the 16100-z431010-0009 which shows 61 in stock.

Your model number comes back with the product number with the Rato engine. It looks like that engine was used on 2 models of Poulan Pro mowers in 2017. Was told that Rato US no longer exist by my distributor a few years back due to looking for parts for a Rato used on a Generac generator.

Can you supply us with the model number of the mower so we can locate a IPL for your mower.

You got the wedge block on the drive motor upside down. Looks like they call it a motor block part number 19216824210

Even when the front side price on the 55 gallon drum looks appealing you need or in this case @PTmowerMech also will need to consider what the LTL freight on the barrel of oil will cost. And being 55 gallon and not 54 falls under different hazmat requirements.

Assuming that the rear pulley is the power input pulley for the deck. From that pulley take the belt around the idler pulley to the left in the picture, that is the tension pulley and is normally the first pulley after the power pulley. Then go around the spindle pulley on the right in the...

@PTmowerMech Actually what you are seeing is very common. It has been the norm to be able to purchase quart bottles cheaper than 5 gallon or 55 gallon drums for several years. Or at least for the common person. maybe different if you purchase a few thousand gallon a year like auto...

Everything that you are indicating points toward a faulty seat switch or seat switch circuit.

From my Tecumseh school training the proper tightness is to start the threads on the tank and then grab the cap and then flick your wrist to spin the cap down on the threads, and when it stops don't touch it.

That is what I got.

If this is the plastic fuel tank mounted on the engine with the thick cap threads, people are bad at overtightening the cap. On those the cap vents through the thread gaps, and if tightened down beyond a light seat will seal off the thread passage and cause overpressure and/or venting issues.

Looks like the Briggs recommended engine replacement is the 31R907-0007-G1. Other brands of engine can be adapted to work but will require exhaust rework replacement and possible wiring changes.

Actually the original 16:1 engines used 8 ounces of SAE 30W non-detergent motor oil mixed with a gallon of gas. But that is historically older engines before the widespread use of modern 2 stroke oils were available.

I don't know anybody that actually uses break in oil, other than racing folks. I suspect it is just regular motor oil. and 15 hours is not excessive. Most engine manufacturers have done away with the first break in oil change if the engine contains an oil filter, which is most cases is 50-100...

How about supplying us with the model information from the engine so we can see what you are working on.

I know the feeling. Just got a what looks like new Huskee rider in Saturday. Must of had a case of the Monday's Idler pulley for the short belt on the rear is whining, the variable pulley bearing has a wobble, and the input shaft wobbles on the transaxle is also jumping gears internally...

Every lawnmower, lawnmower engine , car manufacturer, tractor, and implement manufacturer subs their warranty work to their authorized dealers. That is just how it works. Maybe the alternative will materialize in the future where the customer has to ship the product back to the manufacturer at...

Looks like there are two lines on the flywheel that align with the parallel edge of the crankcase and the N will face toward the ignition module on the flywheel And then align the mark on the camgear with the mark on the crankcase. Can't post copy of my service manual due to being for...

Standard is 42 ounces without filter. At least for the OHV single cylinders.

48 is the standard amount for most of the Briggs rider engines with oil filter. Some of the V twins are 64 ounces.

Due to changes in the Kohler modules over the last few years, basically you need to change both modules, partially because in some cases replacing one module and the other will fail shortly, and with the redesign of the Kohler modules if the part numbers on the module don't match they both need...

In both cases it was due to the plastic suction tube being replaced that connects to the brass tube from the bottom of the carb.

Leave the wires disconnect and determine what is shorting out the pto.. The overload of the yellow wires could of damaged and fused the wires going to the electric clutch.

I have come across that issue twice over the years.

Think of the engine pulley as if it was a fence post. Put one end of the belt over a fence post grab the other end of the loop and pull tight. Now rotate your hand 1/4 turn counterclockwise. and that will be a rough diagram of how the belt will look installed but with the right side of the...

Just because you are getting 13.6 volts with a meter doesn't mean that the wiring can carry any current I suspect that you have a bad or corroded wire some place that is preventing any amp flow. You ca try a test light, or I like to use an old light bulb fixture from a riding mower to...

I suspect that most of the bounce issue is a lot of Z turns have a rigid front axle whereas, riders have a pivoting front axle. Lowering the tire pressure may help, but I don't think it will help much.

Bud, everybody is having parts availability issues. I waited 11 months for a $6 part on a new out of the box pressure last year. Took 10 months to get a carb for a 3 year old leaf vacuum that the customer lost the use of from May of last year to this March. Kohler will get the engine to...

The truth is the MTD tillers are not a sealed unit and will leak like a sieve, and allow water intrusion through every opening it can find. I have pulled apart more than my fair share of the rear tine tillers to find them full of water and rust. Seized shift forks are an everyday event with...

All descriptions will be as if you were sitting on the seat. The belt comes off the right side of the engine pulley, around the horizontal V pulley next to the engine, then twist to go under the bottom of the vertical flat idler pulley, over the top of the vertical V pulley, across the top of...

I will about guarantee that you have the drive belt installed incorrectly. Most likely flipped at the transmission pulley. Give us the model number so we can see what the belt routing is supposed to be, and if possible provide a picture of how you have the belt installed.

And if it is one of the Powermore engines need to remove the carb and make sure the screen deep down inside of the fuel inlet is clean.

Two things, if you turned the fuel bowl 180 degrees won't tighten down properly and also the plastic carb body that the screws go into are very easy to strip.

That is the engine EPA number which doesn't mean anything except the EPA. The JD model serial number tag will either be on the back or in some cases the side of the frame. In this case may start with M0105

And at this point is is almost entirely MTD since B-D owns Craftsman and MTD which included Cub Cadet, Bolens, Yard Machine, YardMan, Troybilt, Huskee,, And at one time were also making Toro Consumers products, and Ariens.

Most likely just counterweight. Wouldn't run with spark every half revolution.

To me that means some place that won't build up fumes out of direct sunlight.

Can you hear or feel the fuel solenoid on the carb click when the key is turned on and off. Could also try putting a small amount of gas into the intake and see if it starts and runs or starts and then dies.

Lets isolate the issue a little bit. Remove the deck belt from the engine pulley and then start the mower and engage the deck. Does it keep running or still bog down and die. If it dies that we have a safety switch issue most likely the seat switch circuit. If it keeps running then most...

It doesn't help the fact that the dealer distribution system for Kohler doesn't have field reps and internal tech support. All that is now handled by Kohler directly.

The only time I haven't reused head bolts unless they came with a new head was on the old K series Kohlers. Something about the aluminum to cast transition would cause the head gasket to blow if you reused the bolts.

And to answer your second question. Yes they can be eliminated.

I have done 2 on JD 445's and one on a Gator 6x6 over the years. And if you don't pull off the bypass hose and let the block and water pump fill, it will overheat before it purges. That Polaris Ranger I was working on a couple of months ago required raising up the front of the UTV about a foot...

That is the horizontal shaft water cooled engine. make sure to pull the short coolant bypass hose between the water pump and the thermostat housing when fulling otherwise it will air lock the system and not self purge.

What are your initial thoughts on that one. Ran without oil and full of aluminum particles or went swimming.

Very true, it would be gone in my book with that issue. Looks like a perfect way to cook a stator on engine shutdown.

Is the front axle pivoting top to bottom in the frame mount. the axle will wear in the area allowing the axle to tilt which will also contribute to the issue. And in some cases the frame will also flex around the area of the motor will can also be a factor.

If it has the fuel solenoid on the carb make sure it is retracting when the key is turned on. Sometimes they can get gummy and stick with fuel residue.

Subs to 788-0499A and is showing as a valid number in my distributor system but have none in stock.

I did but I don't see a reason for them to be wired to a relay. While would you connect AC to a relay. And if they were connected to the same relay would create a dead short back to the stator. I was just thinking they were a casualty to a backfeed on the ground side of the relays. There is...

the whole thing is strange. And I can't think of anything other than headlights that would work with AC And like you I can't see the 40+ for headlights unless they are running them parallel and not in series so half wave AC to each headlight.

I am finding 0499 cub beige for the hood and side panels.

The only thing that I can figure that those two wires off of the regulator with the special connector with the burnt end would feed the headlights. Nothing else in the system would even be remotely AC powered. I would be checking to make sure the headlight wires didn't get close to the...

Something else I would check before adjusting the governor is make sure the throttle shaft in the carb turns freely. Sometimes after setting gas will accumulate around the base of the throttle shaft in the carb and get gummy preventing the shaft from working correctly.

You mean you actually got the MTD carb kit to fit. Almost every one that I have had to install there is some part in the kit that is incorrect for the carb. Correct part number per IPL but the float valve is wrong, or the wrong bowl gasket, or some other part that you need but can't use...

That engine has been out of production for close to 20 years. It was Kohler's first attempt at lost foam casting technology and it was a disaster projects. Main reason it was discontinued was the the upper half of the crankcase, the cylinders and the heads were cast as one piece. Because...

Everything leads back to a seat switch issue. May need to go through the wiring looking for a rubbed wire. A wire making intermittent contact can drive you nuts.

Most of the products with the Remington name are actual MTD products build in their own MTD or contracted factories. The Remington pushmowers and trimmers may have their own Powermore engines etc. The Remington trimmers are the same units as their Troybilt, Yard Machine units. The Remington...

Remington power products was purchased by MTD a few years ago. So the Remington branded products that you are seeing at the box stores are just like Troybilt, Cub Cadet etc.

A lot of the Remington saws made by MTD were actually McCullochs or somehow linked to McCulloch, I have even ran into saws with a DOM of 2021 have obsolete parts because of the McCulloch connection.

My brother in law has the the 13AK11Bk710 which is the newer version of that exact mower that I work on every year. I have had to replace every terminal going to the pto switch and half of the connectors on the key switch due to the terminal tension strips breaking causing intermittent and no...

On that mower if the fuse blows it also shuts off the engine. Need to get a volt meter or a test light and unplug the electric clutch and check for 12 volts at the electric clutch plug. If you have voltage then most likely the clutch has failed. No voltage would mean other issues and with...

Just because it says 12 volts doesn't mean it has 12 volts under starting load.. Sounds like there is a weak or bad connection and is loosing juice under load. May want to have battery checked to make sure it is good, and also check the battery connections both at the starter solenoid, and...

Same here, Just not cost effective to repair them in most cases. The last Murray was probably 3 years ago, and it was one of the newer Murrays, that came back to a contact "parts at chinese company dot com" and we will see if we can assist you. No website, no parts diagrams, etc. The Brute...

The GN-190 engine is used on the 09441-2 which according to the Generac dealer site says to contract Briggs because they are the support for the product. Briggs doesn't list any of the external components of the engine just the engine short block parts. There have no reference for the carb...

That is the newer style Chinese Murray blade mount. You will find the blade is not available through any source of supply and you will have to do exactly what you are planning with the older blade mount and blade if you want to continue using the mower.

Looks more like the GN-190 engine. Most parts for that model will be NLA and don't be surprised if Briggs or Generac claim it. Briggs will say to contact Generac, Generac will say to contact Briggs. Neither company will support it.

I think Jagg threw in something unrelated to the original post when he mentioned his 350 chainsaw, and then went on and discussed the original engine in the same sentence. Hence the confusion behind the exhaust valve on a 2 stroke chain saw.

I have done the same with the .043 to .050 swap

No, Not that I know of. I don't sell the lp in skip link. Haven't seen the need in that size and what I have seen hasn't been real impressive. I have seen that TriLink makes a full chisel version of the 3/8 lp. May have to try some of that one of these days. The worse chain in my...

I originally purchased a roll of the skip link for my customers running bars longer than 24" which is recommended by Oregon for longer bars. Within 6 months I couldn't give away a roll of standard sequence. If you want to increase the performance on a 50cc saw running a 20" bar run skip...

Skip tooth has been my biggest seller over the last 3-4 years. To the point that I don't even stock normal sequence in 3/8. And would probably be selling it in .325 if it was still available. Now I know there is companies that make skip in.325 but not readily available through the normal channels