Recent content by ILENGINE

You do realize that you could of turned the deck off, and set the parking brake and then got off and closed the garage door and the engine would of keep running.

Either on the front of the transmission or the front corners. different mowers and transmissions use different setups so need to look around the front and see if everything is attached. Some will have both front coners, some just one. Some will have a connection on the front and others...

Make sure the transmission support brackets are still attached. If the bracket is not connected will allow the transmission to pivot when starting and stopping. Also will cause cracking at the connection points at the frame/axle area

With the electric pto the pto safety switch is the pto engagement button that you pull to engage the deck. So the safety switch is located on the dash.

Surge in my question doesn't mean the engine is surging. Generators have two ratings. One is for a continuous load like say a toaster. And the surge wattage is for like starting a motor or compressor. Surge load is always higher than running load. So a generator may have a 5500 watt...

If you install the float needle and pin in the carb cover and then turn that part upside down the float should sit parallel to the carb cover. The valve adjust fuel. Or for a little education. If the adjustment needle is pointed then it adjust fuel and further out you turn it the richer the...

Best I can tell shuold be part number 691005

Most mowers in the transport position won't even move under their own power. In the transport or freewheel position you are bypassing oil at the hydro motor coming from the pump. The only time bypass or transport position should be used is when you need to push or tow the mower because it...

Is the 5500 watts surge or nominal? How much of a large load by wattage? Is the large load 120v or 240v? Do you have a tachometer and if so how much is the rpm drop under load? and what is the no load rpm?

It was. I have seen water in carbs appear to do some strange things.

With the briggs flywheel tool the bottom nut is just used to keep the pull bolts from falling out of the puller. They are never tighten down on the flywheel. Should just thread the bolts through the flywheel enough to capture all the threads. Don't turn into the block or could do damage...

Could be belts but also could be that you have worn a groove into the variable speed pulley and it will give the same effect as a belt bottoming out in the pulley groove.

Looks like then ZL-GCEE-1K5A-1EXX and the ZL-GCEE-3K5A-1NXX are both superceding to the ZL-GCEE-SK5A-1NXX

OK here is the qlitch. The number that you listed in the first quoted post falls under the brake center section improvement and in those cases the entire unit has to be replaced. The parts numbers I listed are for the second quoted post

Some mowers have a shorting tab that activates when disconnected. So it thinks nobody is on the seat.

I suspect you are overthinking again. How some of these companies time their engines doesn't correspond to how the keyways are cut. If the magnet is facing the ignition coil were is the piston located. Should be close to TDC.

That motor uses the normal generator tapered shaft and the genset mounting flange is part of the engine side cover which will about make it unuseable for any other purpose. Just went and looked the genset is $650

The winding is burnt to a crisp. And you don't even wan to know what that cost. Hint. More than the generator sells for.

Service manual shows flywheel bolt at 41 lb/ft

No, most likely the issue is age, and the seals harden and over time just get loose. Did one on a Kohler Twin last summer due to the same issue. And that one pushed back in with finger pressure also. I have also put Loctite 641 retainer on some seals that tend to be a loose fit to try to...

There is about a .1% chance that there is a gasket leaking between the carb and the intake which maybe found by spraying that area with something like WD-40. The other 99.9% is there is a piece of dirt in the idle circuit of the carb that you haven't gotten out yet. And sometimes takes some...

If oil got on either surface while it is curing it will not seal. Don't beat youself up though. I have had a few failures over the years also. Just had one a couple weeks ago that the Honda sealant was hardening and failing within minutes of the engine coming up to operating temperature...

Some of those heads tend to seep oil for a period of time, and some the bottom edge sits at the sump oil level. So can be challenging to keep oil out of the area while letting the stuff cure.

Here is the instructions for the ultra Red DIRECTIONS: 1. For best results, surfaces should be clean and dry. 2. Cut nozzle and apply a continuous 1/16″ to 1/4″ (2 to 6mm) bead of silicone to one surface, surrounding all bolt holes. Assemble parts immediately while silicone is still wet...

The lifters will bleed off while sitting, even more if that is the valve that is open because the extra valve spring pressure tries to close the valve against oil pressure

Now something to keep in mind with Briggs. The kill wire contains the crosstalk diodes, and could be the issue. If the diodes go bad the modules will crosstalk and kill spark.

Would need to remove the blower housing and disconnect the ground wire from the ignition coil and crank to determine if it is the coils or a short in the system. But if both coils have failed at the same time I would be worried that something has shorted and sent 12V battery voltage to the...

I think your thought would be acceptable. For the most accuracy of engine health would probably need to do a leakdown test. Worked on a generator a few years back that had a 5% bypass on leakdown but only showed 5 psi on compression gauge. Engine had a clogged spark arrester screen.

Like Scrub said. Almost all surging issues are due to fuel/carb issues. I can't think of the last time I ran into a governor surge issue outside of the governor not working and the engine trying to find the self destruct button. Actually I think the last confirmed governor surge I encountered...

If I remember correctly there was also an issue if the oil viscosity was too high could also cause over pump of the lifters. I think that had to do something with 30W used in temps below 50 F if I remember correctly. Bringing it up since people tend to use whatever weight oil they love best.

I was talking about the pulse line. Looks OK in the picture. Fuel flow restriction some place. May need to remove the line between the fuel pump and the carb, and crank the engine to check fuel flow from the pump. Depending on where the fuel tank is located you maybe able to disconnect the...

Lets start over. Loosen the governor arm nut. Move the throttle to full throttle while watching which direction the governor arm moves. And then turn the governor shaft in the same direction as the arm moved. So if the arm moves CW then turn the shaft CW if the shaft went CCW then turn the...

With the RTV sealants you have to make sure there is nothing contaminating either surface. but also have to keep the oil residue that is in the head from running back out onto the surface while it cures. Some of those sealants take 24 hours before they are ready for use. The last one i did...

Just a though. Look at the right valve cover as if you were sitting on the seat. There is a hose coming out of the top of the valve cover that connects to the fuel pump. Make sure it is connected. Could have other fuel restrictions but have seen the hose split and/or get disconnected while...

The top of the spring connects into the bottom hole of that spring clip that connect linkage to the carb. The bottom will either connect into a small hole next to the linkage on the bottom or some even connect in the same hole. And the up and down surging in almost always caused by a dirty...

Definitely need the air cleaner and the breather hose needs to be present and connect to prevent dirt intrusion into the engine. Takes very little dust to totally wipe out the rings and cylinder wall. I wouldn't worry about the valve until you have an issue.

Depending on how damaged the fan is. If workable I would at least put the blower cover on to direct some of that air over the head for cooling. Most likely just the gasket leaking. Or if it has sealant. everything has to be dry and free of oil/grease/contaminated for the sealant to cure...

Had a case of Briggs OEM solenoids a few years back that would start the engine exactly 3 times before burning out the engagement coil and not longer engage to start the engine.

My thought is there are a couple washers and the other nut that holds it on are missing Basically sandwiched to something. Did a search of the parts list for his mower but didn't find anything of that size.