Recent content by ILENGINE

Star I agree that this industry is a collision course to a full crash and burn. OEM's are slow walking out of business. Like I have said before I am just buying my time until retirement. And I suspect I won't have to leave the business. I feel that over the next few short years all dealer...

It looks like that fuel tank is under the seat so may have to remove the seat and rear fender assemblies to get to the top of the tank to replace the nipple if replaceable. The hard starting is most typically due to the choke not closing all the way. Put the throttle control in choke...

Which is also showing NLA.

See @Forest#2 in post number for answer to question. Even highlighted in a different color.

Replacement crankshaft is 797076 which is currently on the Briggs distributor backorder list. The shortblock and replacement engine have been discontinued. Funny thing is I just dealt with trying to find a replacement engine for another independent dealer for this exact engine about 2 weeks ago.

There should be a short hose attached to that nipple on the tranny that just points downward to act as a vent. Doesn't look like that hose have been in place for some time. There is also another hose that goes from a nipple on the air filter housing to a connector on the side of the engine...

Lets start with the actual model and spec number from the engine tag so we can see what setup you have. Also the model number info from the tag under the seat will allow us to see the rest of the system. Most likely that hose goes from a nipple on the air cleaner base to either the top of the...

Head bolt torque is 220 in/lb. I usually do a three step process.

The reason that there is only one wire to those fuses is the heavy red wire in the middle is on a 3 bridge connector that feeds the fuse above and below it. I would pull the fuses to make sure the terminals are not corroded.

Make sure the plastic intake cross tube isn't broke or cracked.

You can add a shutoff to an engine with a fuel pump.. Not a problem. And leaving the carb dry is still good philosophy. I recommend adding something like Startron or other fuel stabilizer prior to shutdown and to help prevent the little bit of fuel left in the carb going bad while setting. I...

First thing I would check is the outlet to the exhaust. Something may of built a nest in in obstruction the outlet. Also could be carbon buildup on the exhaust screen which would allow it to start and idle but not rev up.

The click maybe the starter solenoid not completely pulling in the bendix to engage the flywheel. My nephews starter on his 35 Vanguard on his stump grinder does the same thing on occasion since new and he is pushing 700 hours. The first start attempt doesn't allow the starter to fully engage...

I have had 2-3 of those come into the shop over the years. And they can be a pain. Also had one with diesel fuel in the tank.

The first picture is not really a scratch it is the discoloration of the cylinder wall that lines up with the ring gap. The brown spot may just be oil sitting on top of the piston.

The answer is in post 13

The history on this saw is I sold it new to a neigbor customer that burns firewood for heat. This saw is run every year mostly in the fall like now, but does get used over the rest of the year for storm cleanup and various tree jobs. The saw presented to the shop with not running properly, and...

Looks like the link is part of the shaft https://www.partstree.com/parts/kawasaki-16041-7021/

Most of the ones that I have seen and used have a 5-7 year life expectancy before the battery dies. The hour meter on my nephews stump grinder counted hours by key on battery voltage but the display was internal battery maintained. It died a couple years ago after 8 years with roughly 450...

Kohler is sit on top of the threads to check not screw on to check. Some of the Kohlers have push in dipsticks and those are pushed in to check.

What I am starting to see if the aftermarket parts suppliers are charging the dealers list price for their aftermarket parts and then doubling the price over retail. Had a case of a JD idler pulley that the aftermarket folks wanted $34 cost and $66 retail for a part from the JD dealer sells...

Was looking earlier and my Kohler distributor sells the 25 357 64-S synthetic blend which replaced the 25 357 05-S Dino which for the most part is NLA...Dealer cost is $60/case and retails for $120/case. Now here is the catch. Unless you buy a pallet of 84 cases or the dealer orders his oil...

What engine are you working on that they are charging those prices. Just asking to determine what list is compared to what they are charging. And as far as oil prices. There maybe more to that story than appears on the surface. Some OEM distributors don't consider lubes on their standard...

Briggs is screw in to check. Kawasaki, Kohler, Honda, Tecumseh are sit on top of threads to check. A lot of Kawasaki dipsticks say do not screw in to check. Imprinted into the plastic dipstick.

Well it has been 7 years since they stopped producing Subaru engines. But you are right. Any running Subaru engines that need repair at a future date are SOL.

Correct. My distribution told me something similar a few months ago. Also that most parts are already gone, and there is only 1 person left working tech support and parts supply and that ends at the of the year.