Recent content by GearHead36

Thanks, everyone for the suggestions.

This sounds like the most likely cause. I'll have to check that. I seem to remember from when I rebuilt the carb that the fuel line was molded. Is that the case? Or will generic fuel line work?

I replaced the needle valve. The old one looked good, but my eyes aren't good enough to see microscopic wear, and since I had a new one, I replaced it.

I've never replaced it. I got the saw a couple of years ago from my sister. Sometimes it runs great so I haven't suspected the plug.

I pull it with no choke, no throttle. Then with throttle. Then with choke, no throttle. I know this will flood it... that's the goal. Then I pull it with no choke, full throttle, which should clear the flood after a few pulls, resulting in the right fuel mixture at some point in the process.

ZAMA - REBUILD KIT RB-69

I have the above chainsaw. Last year, it was hard to start all the time, so I rebuilt the carburetor with an OEM rebuild kit. It then became easy to start cold and hot. When cold or hot, it starts just as it should. When it's in between cold and hot, though, it can be very hard to start...

I prefer beginning of season. I also check the shroud and cooling fins to make sure Micky & Minnie haven't moved in.

Both my riders have Kohler engines. I don't go for the 300 hour oil. I prefer to change it every year, and 300 hrs would take me 5-6 yrs to accumulate. So I go with the "short-interval" oil, and change it every year.

I have a Cub Cadet steering wheel ZTR, and an older Husqvarna traditional lap-bar ZTR. The CC is easier to control on slopes. The lap-bar ZTR will sometimes slip & slide around. The CC will track where you point it. It's not a Ventrac, but it's also not $20000. IMO, it's a good step up from a...

Post #4 also mentions: "If this were a really old plain bearing engine you'd need way more oil in the mix than 100:1 could provide."

Do the blades spin freely? Do the engine RPMs drop right before the PTO disengages? These things shouldn't cause this problem, but might still point to the problem.

Where are you getting 100:1? Most modern equipment recommend 50:1. For the old chainsaw mentioned, I'd probably go with 40:1. The oils today ARE better than what was available 25 yrs ago. I'm with the "it depends on how it was cared for" crowd. If you use E0 and a high quality oil (I used Echo...

Thank, @Auto Doc's. Not the answer I wanted, but I'd rather have the right answer than to have a useless lawn ornament.

The ad is on Craigslist, and the model plate info was not provided. I have had manual reel mowers, and I have sharpened them, so I DO have an idea on how to sharpen them. I already have two conventional ZTR's. One is over 20 yrs old, and is getting hard to get parts for. The other is 8 yrs old...