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Post #4 also mentions: "If this were a really old plain bearing engine you'd need way more oil in the mix than 100:1 could provide."

Do the blades spin freely? Do the engine RPMs drop right before the PTO disengages? These things shouldn't cause this problem, but might still point to the problem.

Where are you getting 100:1? Most modern equipment recommend 50:1. For the old chainsaw mentioned, I'd probably go with 40:1. The oils today ARE better than what was available 25 yrs ago. I'm with the "it depends on how it was cared for" crowd. If you use E0 and a high quality oil (I used Echo...

Thank, @Auto Doc's. Not the answer I wanted, but I'd rather have the right answer than to have a useless lawn ornament.

The ad is on Craigslist, and the model plate info was not provided. I have had manual reel mowers, and I have sharpened them, so I DO have an idea on how to sharpen them. I already have two conventional ZTR's. One is over 20 yrs old, and is getting hard to get parts for. The other is 8 yrs old...

There is a 70” Gravely Triplex Hydro Reel Mower for sale locally. Are parts still available for this thing? I've experimented with a push reel mower on a small area of my lawn, and I like it. But my lawn is too big to mow with a push mower. This would fix that.

Idler pulleys should have very little vertical play.

I have a Champion generator, which, of course, doesn't get used that often. The manual has 3 storage procedures. One for short term (up to 30 days), one for mid term (30 days to 1 yr), and one for long term (more than 1 yr). I always use the long term procedure. I say "always", but so far...

@JimP2014, what is your goal here? Do you want to "fix it right" and keep this mower working for another 10 yrs? Or do you want to just get it fixed enough to work for now, with plans to run it until it dies? I understand each position. It may not be worth it to "fix it right". If you DO want to...

@ILENGINE, I'm no expert in the matter. I'm not a petroleum engineer. I AM an engineer (electrical) and a gearhead (my dad was a professional mechanic), so I'm not totally clueless. But also, my career as an engineer has taught me that I don't know everything. For the assemblies that get filled...

I'm having a hard time understanding how this could be. I'm not saying that it's impossible, but I'd like to see proof. I hope that's not the case. I recently replaced a spindle, and filled it with Lucas Red n Tacky.

I'm a big fan of getting the right machine for a given property. I usually change my equipment every time I move. Sounds like you got the right machine for your needs.

I'm going to disagree that air cools better than grease. Grease will conduct heat way better than air. Wheel bearings have to be removed to be greased. They typically don't get greased through zerk fittings. Any assembly with a zerk fitting (ball joint, tie rod, etc) gets filled until grease...

Grease not getting past sealed bearings.... In this video, this guy disagrees that bearing seals will block grease from getting to the bearings, and he demonstrates his findings. The seals CAN block the grease if you don't apply grease correctly, and he shows how to do it correctly. The trick...

But then you go on to refute my claims of "way more power".

I don't recall, but I doubt we had racing oil. This was the early 80's, and we were changing it every race day. Probably should have changed it every heat.

You DO understand the concept of racing engines, right? High lift cams, bigger valves and valve springs, ported intake & exhausts. Steel cranks. I think the rods were aluminum. Not sure about the pistons. There were 3 classes. Stock, stock appearing, and modified. Stock is stock, except you...

Like I said, not a complete valve job. And these were all-out racing engines. The only OEM parts were: the block, head, lifters and spark plug. The crank, cam, & piston were all high end racing parts. Racing carb & intake, too. Straight pipe exhaust. The engines turned WAY more RPMs than stock...

It wasn't complete valve jobs. I didn't replace valve guides, and I didn't cut valve seats or valves. I was a teenager, so this kept me out of trouble.

I disagree. I used to race karts with 5 HP Briggs flathead engines. I ran open class, and the engines peaked out around 6000 RPM. At the end of a race, compression would be noticeably down from the start. I would have to basically do a valve job after every race. I'd remove the head and valves...

Mostly flat lawn... I'd skip self propel. I have a Toro Recycler with Personal Pace and electric start. You will need to keep the charger plugged into it all the time. And the Personal Pace system will need to be adjusted every season. I got the electric start and self propel so my kids could...

I would check the spindles, and make sure they spin freely. Grease them while you're in there. Most spindles never get greased. You will need to apply grease until it squirts out somewhere. At that point, the grease will force past the seals.

For me, the worst offense is running your mower with the discharge chute held open, and directing the discharge toward the road. Usually done by the commercial guys, and those commercial mowers are capable of launching stuff at dangerous speeds.

I go by time. If I can push mow a yard in 30 minutes, I don't need anything bigger. An hour of pushing is my limit. If it takes longer than an hour with a push mower, I get something bigger that I can ride. I'm ok with riding for a couple of hours. If it takes longer than that, then I need...

Does your solenoid have 3 connections? Or 4? All solenoids will have 2 large terminals for carrying the heavy current from the battery to the starter. All solenoids have a coil, which must be energized to activate the solenoid. Some have one connection to the coil, and some have two. The coil...

The park brake must be set for the engine to crank. Did your friend verify that 12V was getting to the solenoid?

If the engine spins over when you short across the solenoid, then: - the battery is good - the battery terminal connections are good. - the starter is good. Check the simplest things first. Is the park brake set? Is the PTO switch off? Does this mower require someone in the seat for it to...

I would just use the oil from the engine manufacturer. Yes, it's way more expensive than what you can get at Wallyworld, but... - How much do you really use? I do one change per year. 2 qts. That's not going to break the bank. - You know that the oil from the mfr will absolutely have the right...

If the engine spins over when you short across the solenoid, then: - the battery is good - the battery terminal connections are good. - the engine is not hydro locked. I'd suspect a safety switch. Do you have a test light? If so, check to see if 12V from the ignition switch is getting to the...

How was that a waste of time? You guys informed me that I had the right size tires. That means that I know what size to get if I decide to buy any. And that I need to look further into what's wrong with my deck.

Hmmm. Looks like tire size is not the reason I can't get my deck level. I don't think I can justify replacing the tires just to eliminate checking them before every use. I'll try the ATF trick, and see if that fixes the leaks. And look for other reasons for my deck issues. Thanks, all, for the...

Here is a photo of the ID sticker. I guess that COULD be 968 99 92 20.

This is the Husqvarna forum, so... yeah. Those specs don't match my machine. They must have made a change at some point. Mine has a single cyl Kohler Command Pro, and only one fuel tank.

Thanks, ILENGINE. The rears are right, but I'm not sure about the fronts. They are currently Kenda Corsas, and size printed on the sidewall is 4.10/3.5-5. I don't understand that sizing. 4.10/3.5-5? What is that? And is it the same as 11x4-5?

I have a CZ 4817, and the tires are fairly old and leaky. I just deal with it by putting air in them every time I use it. I recently tried to level the deck, and found that I couldn't get the deck high enough. I set the cutting height to 3", but at the max height adjustment, the blades were...

Sounds like the governor spring is either wrong, or installed wrong. 4800 should be out of the range of adjustment. I'd look over the governor spring, and how it's mounted. There are often multiple holes for it to mount into. See if there's a hole that makes the spring looser.

Do both mowers run the same RPMs? Are both air filters clean? Or, the same amount of dirty? Same blades? High lift blades will use more fuel than mulching blades. Bagging, mulching, or discharging setup the same on both? Check the cooling fins. A rodent could have made a nest in one of them...

To those saying that you don't need to be in the seat for starting.... Some do, some don't. I have two riding mowers. A Husqvarna CZ4817 and a Cub Cadet Pro Z 154S. To start the CZ, the bars must be pushed out, the park brake set, AND you have be in the seat. On the Pro Z, if the park brake is...

I can't keep the angle consistent enough with a flap wheel. I really like the idea of soaking blades in water for ez clean up. Why didn't I think of that?

You might try one of these. I just ordered one, so I can't comment yet on how well it works. It's a much cheaper knockoff of a tool that is reported to work well.

I never mentioned a temperature difference anywhere. Where are you getting this? I plan on keeping it well greased.

CC claims that it's a commercial unit. That year, they offered a Pro Z 100, 500, and 900. I consider mine to be "entry-level commercial" or maybe prosumer. Still, almost overkill for residential use. Don't go by that photo. I mangled the bearing, and maybe the spindle trying to get it apart. So...

I agree. I learn best by doing it myself. The new spindle was just delivered. It came with a pulley, which I didn't expect. (y) Great, given that it wasn't scheduled for delivery until Monday. Not sure it will make any difference, though. It's been raining for 3 days. Won't be able to mow...

Thanks. My garage now is one I inherited from my dad, with all his tools (that haven't walked off). It's a professional garage. He was a professional mechanic. I searched for punches the other day for removing bearings, and found a tool that looks perfect for the job. It's like a chisel with a...

I'm not sure why, but last year, I only put about 30 hrs on it. I think the manual calls for service every 25 hrs. So I didn't think it needed it. However, the air pre-filter, which is also supposed to serviced every 25 hrs, was caked with dirt, so maybe it was a hard 30 hrs. This year, I have...

My bearing supplier, Amazon, isn't quite that cheap. One bearing is about $9. One cup... about the same. I DID find 4 sets of Timkin bearings & cups for $35. Not quite as good as your prices, but better than $18 per set. Or $150 per spindle.

"Do the cones & cups need to be replaced as sets?" Never mind. I did a bit of research, and found that they get replaced together. I kinda thought that. My dad was a mechanic in the 70's, and did a bunch of bearing replacements. I seem to recall the cups (aka races) getting replaced too. Any...

Model # is 53RWEFJA050, DOM - 02/2016. Does that change anything? I speculated, "Is it possible that the 741-04129 bearing is not right for this spindle?" I checked another spindle, and it has the same bearing. Do the cones & cups need to be replaced as sets? Thanks, StarTech