Recent content by doug9694

Be sure that the crank, cam and other bearings are still good. If not then look on Ebay or etc.

I have had people bring in mowers that refused to start in the spring due to too much stabilizer. So follow directions! Dry carbs tend to flood the engine in the spring. So keep doing what you have been doing.

Over the years the gas formulation changes and is not good for diaphragms and other rubber parts. Floats are the way, IMO. Possibly affixing a suction type carb that does not have a diaphragm will work???

Perhaps the new switch is defective or the wiring is bad. The kill from the reverse is working so tie into that wire with another toggle or push button switch back to ground. Or get a wiring diagram for your model # and track and test each wire and component.

I agree!

I would put it after. Any debire in the tank could keep the valve from closing off completely. The filter should trap it!

The only thing I can come up with is maybe a leaky porous casting around the intake valve or the intake manifold itself. Carefully see if one cylinder is running much cooler then the other. Or use an infrared thermometer. The cool cylinder is most likely where the issue is. Reading more comments...

Gray oil is from water. Maybe some was in the tank or can used to fill it. Also if left in the rain or spray.

In my experience that happens with small trimmers and blowers, ect. The opposite is what I see. The engine running creates a vacuum and quits from fuel starvation.

What about a mulching blocking plate? If used in hi grass that may cause that. Also check that the blades are not up-side-down. Sharp edge must be lowest!

Try another spark plug .Check for spark if that don't fix it.

The plastic over time warps and lets too much fuel past the diaphragm and gasket. Ebay or Amazon sells those inexpensively.

Try using an inner tube.