Recent content by biggertv

Atwoods has SAE30 in 2 gallon size, reasonable prices.

I've seen these before. Yep, crookeder than a dog's hind leg and made that way at the factory. Best thing you can do is make sure you replace the belt and idlers with OEM parts. Also, sometimes grass gets stuck in the guards, if no children around, don't replace them after removing for belt...

Remove the plug to check compression and spin over to clear excessive fuel. Doesn't sound like a carb problem, more like valves or sheared key, though that's rare on a rider. Check valve adjustment before replacing carb, but spray cleaner in carb throat, if it starts with spray, replace carb.

Sounds like Coil going bad. Insulation breaking down with Heat. It's happened to me a couple of times with Briggs engines, they would last about 1/2 hour before quitting. New coil is the fix.

Gosh ya'll like to work hard. I'm Lazy. If tire has Weather Cracks, get a squirt can full of ATF.(the cheap kind) Remove the wheel and then the Schrader Valve. Squirt about 1/4 cup in the tire. Swirl it around all sides of the tire, let sit on each side for a couple of hours. Install Valvestem...

Give that Solenoid a Whack with the handle of a large screwdriver while stuck. Contacts could be welded together or spring too weak from being overheated. EDIT: I see you solved problem, leaving this here in case someone has a stuck solenoid in the future.

Screw Diesel. Go with Propane. Plugs will last 4ever and you'll have to stick to strict runtime oil changes because oil always looks new as the day you changed it. Conversion kits are out there and reasonably priced.

ATF. Remove the valve stem and using a pump oil can, squirt enough to lightly coat the entire inside of the tire. I didn't believe it either, But It Works. I used ATF4 and other types probably work too. It does seal small holes, especially Weather Cracks on sidewall. Inflate immediately and...

I've got a Cub Cadet, and the hose At Top of tank is the Fuel Line. I know, How? There is an extension under that fitting on top of tank that reaches to bottom of tank. Make sure it's all air tight or the Pump will suck air and not gas. Crazy, I know.

A Hole in the Block. Ask Taryl, he knows it didn't have the courage to keep a piston attached to the crankshaft.

Perfect calibration is not needed for lawn equipment. the key is Consistency. As long as All head or sump Bolts are Torqued to the Same Value, a couple of inch-pounds off won't hurt.

Low Click...Bad Battery. I don't care how new it is. Lately even new batteries have not been dependable. I'm blaming the EPA. Get a trickle charger and charge them at least a couple of times a year.

Clutching Idler? If so it has a Spring and springs wear out. Especially newer ones. Steel ain't what it used to be, It may not be giving the stretched belt the tension it needs, possibly slipping at Transmission under load. For Fluid Change, I'd use a hand pump. You may have to get creative with...