Recent content by 350Rocket

My new to me $350 (early to mid 80s?) MTD snowflite. Matches my 81 lawnfllite. Runs pretty good, just needs a muffler, belts very soon and some carb work (leaks immediately if you don't close the valve before shutting it off). Oil pic was before I changed it. 2005 craftsman (AYP) needed cables...

I'm not seeing anything bad. Sure looks clean. At least you got a lot of hours out of it for a modern small engine. Hard to say whether you should dig deeper or just cross your fingers that it keeps going for a while.

Finally an update.... broke the choke cable installing the new carb and the new one is different than what was on there..... couldn't figure out why it was still not wanting to cold start when I manually operated the choke and throttle....tried it again today in near freezing temperatures and it...

Yes knowledge comes from years of experience or reading. I'm not claiming to be an expert but years of reading various sources (mostly bobistheoilguy as it is actually run by a chemical engineer of some kind and has a great FAQ section) I wanted to make sure I wasn't going crazy since almost...

But it calls for engine oil, so there really isn't a correct "transmission oil" for it. They want you to use 20w50 or 15w50 synthetic.

Just looking up the oil capacity for my snowblower and noticed on the maintenance tips tag.... viscosity is not even mentioned. The most important thing it says is "synthetic is recommended below 32f" which is what the conditions will be basically all winter. I wish you guys would just do some...

My last statement I meant to make is that if your hydro calls for 20w50 engine oil (like mine does) you can use synthetic 15w50. The shop I've been going to only seems to carry Mobil 1 15w50 for this application. Synthetic does not flow faster except when cold (as when cold all oils are way too...

I'm done reading your posts to their complete entirety because they are full of so much crazy info (especially about the oil holes being smaller for synthetic lol) viscosity is viscosity no matter what the base is. But I agree we got off topic. But the short of it is you clearly have no idea...

At least on automotive applications ignition coils seemed to fail more frequently when people didn't change their plugs on time. It might not be a big issue on older mower engines but the later ones that seem to he prone to coil failure could very well be susceptible to this problem also. So...

Personally I have not noticed a difference in performance between spark plugs on any of the engines I've owned. I replace them as preventative maintenance, but usually when they get replaced they could have gone much longer before causing any issues.

Btw, it is scary that you taught anybody on this subject.

If you care to read it, I posted some of your fiction material about this topic and got some good commentary on many of the specific things that you said, which are 100% not true and won't be found anywhere on any kind of legit research papers.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ Maybe this will help you out.

Y It looks like you're just sending me on another wild goose chase, reading a bunch of math equations that have nothing to do with what difference there is between a conventional group 2 oil or a group 3 oil or Pao or ester oils. I'm no chemist or anything but there are several...

Can you share any sources for information about these examples? I have done a lot of research on oil over the last 20 years (just out of interest) and I've never heard of anything like this. And I've certainly never read that it flows freer.