New Cam-Release on 19 hp B&S Intek

[MarineBob]

I finally got to reassembling this noted engine from a JD mower. Having done the job wrong once (aligned the timing marks with the crank arrow, not the dot) I figured this time before I go any further I want to make sure the release mechanism is working as needed. I got the valves adjusted to what it seems are just in the middle of the spec range, slathered all moving parts with assembly lube and buttoned everything up with a torque wrench. I got an ancient Craftsman battery charger that has an engine start feature, supposedly 50 AMPs, Says it should crank for 10 seconds then a few minute rest to try again, which is not an issue with me. So once I got everything back together, I left the plug out and things spin easily with the charger/starter. Only did one or two spins with no oil. Then I installed the plug and no go. Goes to the compression point and stops like there is no release. So Here is my question, Is the 50 AMPs (who knows what it really is delivering) enough to push through the release point if its working as it should? Before I closed things up, I turned the engine by hand and you could feel the bump when the piston was up towards the top of the stroke, which I believe is where it should be. I got one more idea to try.....I got another mower with a pretty standard, new a couple months back (so its solid) battery. I am thinking I can take the engine into the garage and hook it up to that battery with some jumper cables just to see if the battery got the oomph to crank the engine. Any thoughts or experience what I might have wrong? The original problem was a broken release thing on the cam. I managed to find about 90% of the pieces , and all unaccounted for was some small bits. Maybe went into the filter? The hangup of just putting this into the mower is the relative's house is 45 minutes away, I know the mower has a new (last spring) battery but its probably needing a charge so I'd like to confirm a successful repair before I reinstall. The engine has something like 500+ hours, never had major repair but good periodic servicing.

 

[andrewslarge]

I’d add oil. Connect a 300 cca battery and give it a go.
I have had issues with just using a battery charger to attempt to start.

 

[MarineBob]

Yeah, I was a bit leery about spinning the engine without oil. I did Google if 50 AMP was enough to crank the engine, and the AI answer was something like use a 250-300 CCA battery

 

[andrewslarge]

I think it might work but I would hook up a battery. I also think it’ll spin over and run

 

[Forest#2]

Use a battery.

Your charger even though it says 50 amp boost it's for boosting start when using a battery, not just using it by itself.

Trying to crank without using a battery is most generally what ruins a good battery charger. If a engine will not crank good due to a bad battery YOU SHOULD NOT use your boost charger as main source for cranking unless you want to take the chance of ruining your charger. I've seen expensive boost chargers ruined doing such.
AND most boost chargers owners manuals indicates to only crank for no more than 5 seconds when using as a BATTERY boost.

 

[Auto Doc's]

A battery charger boost/crank mode is only used when connected to an installed battery, not has a standalone to crank an engine.

The problem with AI is that it is fueling stupidity.

 

[ILENGINE]

A battery charger boost/crank mode is only used when connected to an installed battery, not has a standalone to crank an engine.

The problem with AI is that it is fueling stupidity.

About the only thing I find AI good for is checking for what temperature to set my pellet grill for smoking a meat I haven't done before.

 

[slomo]

Then I installed the plug and no go. Goes to the compression point and stops like there is no release. So Here is my question, Is the 50 AMPs (who knows what it really is delivering) enough to push through the release point if its working as it should?

Let's back up a bit. Has the battery been LOAD tested? Best to find someone with a carbon pile tester. They are the most accurate compared to the new plate resistance junk toys Autozone and the like use.

IF the charger puts out 50 amps in start mode, it won't do it for long. It will get hot very quickly and limit amperage output then it needs a cooling off cycle.

Now let's visit what most electric start mowers need to start. A 200CCA battery is plenty with a good working engine. So 2-350CCA are the norm. Most starters (in good shape) only pull "roughly" 35-50 amps. So don't get all wound up on CCA ratings and such.

I know the mower has a new (last spring) battery but its probably needing a charge

Definitely charged.

I would check the grounds out which most people ignore. It takes 2 to tango. Those would be positive and negative cables in "good" shape.

 

[slomo]

Adding jumper cables into the mix can be a crap shoot. You are adding more items inline to the starting equation which is not a true test of starting. Stout fresh battery charged up and clean grounds is the ticket.

 

[Mark H_NO]

I have terrible results with jumper cables and mowers. There often isn't clearance to get good connections with full size auto jumper cables. The smaller clamps on boosters connect better, but a freshly charged good battery beats them all.