Tiller with 5 Hp B&S

The one in the back is so this engine can be used on other equipment and you can still check/ fill oil. Just make sure oil is almost about to overflow and put the black cap on.

Once I looked and saw oil down the hole. Wrong! It threw a rod due to low oil. I learned don’t guess. Fill til almost to overflowing when level.
 
andrewslarge said:
The one in the back is so this engine can be used on other equipment and you can still check/ fill oil. Just make sure oil is almost about to overflow and put the black cap on.

Once I looked and saw oil down the hole. Wrong! It threw a rod due to low oil. I learned don’t guess. Fill til almost to overflowing when level.
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I was wondering why it had two. I usually just tip the tiller forward over a drain pan. And yes, I do fill till it starts to run out. That's not to say, I haven't run it with just oil visible (low). Thanks for the tip.
 
The pull cord has not been retracting all the way by itself. Spring is fine; it's just the shaft needs cleaning. While I've got the pull cord cover off, I might as well address that too. Refresh my memory, after I clean off the engine shaft, I do NOT grease it before replacing the clutch?? Right?
 
djg618 said:
The pull cord has not been retracting all the way by itself. Spring is fine; it's just the shaft needs cleaning. While I've got the pull cord cover off, I might as well address that too. Refresh my memory, after I clean off the engine shaft, I do NOT grease it before replacing the clutch?? Right?
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No grease. Clean the shaft with Emory cloth or 800-1000 grit sand paper. Drop or two of oil on the felt inside the starter clutch.
I remove the spark plug, insert a bit of soft cotton rope down the hole to lock up the cylinder safely. Reinstall starter clutch and make it tight. There is a torque specification.

If you fail to get the starter clutch on correctly and tight it will possibly shear the flywheel key soon after running the engine under load.
I’ve done it.
 
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