GGP 452 engine loses power

S

Shozyzz

Forum Newbie
Hello everyone, I'm new on this forum and I'm still navigating around where to post about a situation like this.

So, my lawn tractor had a problem where after working for around 10-15 minutes it would start to lose power and eventually shut down. It wasn't very well maintained before, so I decided to do those things. I had taken off the entire engine, I have replaced every gasket around the motor (besides the gasket in the motor block - that stayed the same old one). In the process I had to take off many other parts, like the carbonator (I replaced it with new), starter, flywheel was also replaced completely new,... I have also replaced all the filters and the oil. I thought all of that would've solved my problems with mowing tractor. I have taken every photo of the every part how it was initially installed and I would replace it exactly the way it was. Now the engine is assembled back and the engine is working fine. But as I press on the pedal for driving forward or backwards it starts to lose the power. As soon as I release the pedal, it works fine again. There is probably many ways around what to look for, but ive been looking at many things for the past 24 hours. I would like to know what to specifically look for on the start. Has anyone had the similar issue?
In the link provided below I'm going to add some photos, how the engine is looking, maybe it would help someone recognise the issue. Im also adding the photos of the tractor model, engine model,... If someone needs a more specific photo, I can take it anytime same for anything I have done to the tractor, I'm glad to answer.

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I gladly appreciate any help, thanks in advance

Greetings!
 
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Welcome newbie,

Can you provide the product label information off of the machine and the label information off of the engine? I do not like guessing and searching the internet for hours.

Is this a Gravely with a Mountfield engine?

Is this a V-twin engine and possibly one cylinder is not firing the spark plug due to a bad ignition coil? The engine will not shake or rock when one cylinder is not producing power because the engine is solid mounted.
 
The has provide the info for the Globe Garden Products mower other than where to find an IPL for the engine itself. The mower's doesn't break down the engine.

Here is a link to the IPL.

NJA 102 Hydro IPL
 
In addition to what Auto Doc's said, what about fuel delivery? Check to make sure fuel flows freely. With all you've done alreadfy, replace inline filter, and fuel lines if any doubt. Tank may need to be cleaned.
 
Here is a good question. How does engine behave with just the mower deck engaged [ without engaging the transaxle] as they to put a heavier load on engines. This determine if you have an engine problem or a hydrostatic transaxle problem.
 
StarTech said:
Here is a good question. How does engine behave with just the mower deck engaged [ without engaging the transaxle] as they to put a heavier load on engines. This determine if you have an engine problem or a hydrostatic transaxle problem.
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Hi,
Here is the full story.

The original problem was that after about 5 minutes of mowing, the engine would gradually lose power and then stall completely. It did not stop instantly – it slowly lost RPM until it died. After sitting for a while, it would usually restart and run again for a few minutes before the same thing happened.

At the same time, the tractor also had a separate problem with the original PTO safety switch. Whenever the mower deck was engaged using the original switch, the engine would shut off immediately because the switch was faulty. To get around that problem, we installed a temporary bypass switch. This PTO switch issue is completely separate from the engine losing power after several minutes of mowing.

Because the engine had many hours on it, I decided to do a complete rebuild instead of replacing parts one by one.

During the rebuild I replaced or checked:
New carburetor
New spark plug
New ignition coil
New flywheel and flywheel key (the original flywheel magnet broke and damaged the flywheel)
New gaskets and oil seals
Cylinder head gasket
Valves serviced and adjusted
New fuel filter
Fresh engine oil

The engine now starts very easily, idles smoothly and revs normally. I don’t notice any misfiring or unusual noises.

Right now I cannot perform the mower deck test because I have not yet reinstalled the temporary bypass switch after rebuilding the tractor. With the original PTO safety switch connected, the engine still shuts off immediately when the mower deck is engaged. Once I reinstall the temporary bypass switch, I will test it under mower deck load and report back

https://www.motoruf.com/n/partslists.html?id=50514059 - this is the exact engine that I'm working around
 
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One thing to check on a slow dying engine the fuel tank venting. You can leave the fuel cap loose to verify if this is the problem.

IF the PTO engagement was killing engine immediately then it is likely a seat switch problem not seeing the operator. Now I don't if the switch is a NC or NO.

Also try to understand I am in the US and have never seen this mower so all I can offer is basic troubleshooting.
 
StarTech said:
One thing to check on a slow dying engine the fuel tank venting. You can leave the fuel cap loose to verify if this is the problem.

IF the PTO engagement was killing engine immediately then it is likely a seat switch problem not seeing the operator. Now I don't if the switch is a NC or NO.

Also try to understand I am in the US and have never seen this mower so all I can offer is basic troubleshooting.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your suggestions.

I already tried running the engine with the fuel cap loose to rule out a tank venting problem, but unfortunately the result was exactly the same.

I also checked the seat safety switch with a multimeter, and it appears to be working correctly. The switch opens and closes as expected.

I understand that this European mower is probably different from the models you are familiar with in the US, and I really appreciate you taking the time to help.
 
I've dealt with quite a few this year that had debris sticking in the fuel pickup tubes and fuel lines. The pickup tubes & lines had to be blown clear with shop air or replaced.

Grass clippings, dust and/or debris/water from a dirty fuel can often takes years to build up in a fuel tank and then get sucked in. This stuff slowly blocks the fuel flow and starves the engine. After it shuts down and sits for a while, the debris relaxes in the lines until the engine is run again. The problem keeps repeating itself.
 
Auto Doc's said:
I've dealt with quite a few this year that had debris sticking in the fuel pickup tubes and fuel lines. The pickup tubes & lines had to be blown clear with shop air or replaced.

Grass clippings, dust and/or debris/water from a dirty fuel can often takes years to build up in a fuel tank and then get sucked in. This stuff slowly blocks the fuel flow and starves the engine. After it shuts down and sits for a while, the debris relaxes in the lines until the engine is run again. The problem keeps repeating itself.
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Thank you for the suggestion. I will definitely check and blow out the fuel line and inspect the fuel tank for any debris.

However, there is one thing that confuses me. Even with the drive belt removed from the engine, the problem is exactly the same. As soon as I press the forward or reverse pedal, the engine RPM immediately starts to drop. If I keep the pedal pressed, the RPM continues to fall until the engine stalls.
That is why I’m not sure if this is only a fuel delivery problem.
 
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