I usually buy them on eBay for about a dollar. Locally, generic are about 3.00. So I keep on changing one or two a year. E-15 will increase the frequency of changing I am sure.
How will the new 15% ethanol gasoline affect our Craftsman mowers and lawn tractors?
- Thread starter Cusser
- Start date
Your engine doesn't have a diaphragm for fuel. It has a real carburetor instead.
Diaphragm carburetors are simply that sheet shown in #37, above. That & a Primer bulb comprise the entire fuel delivery system for those engines. Nice and simple.
Paul
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A Question For Which There May Be No Answer:
When people can not get E-0 for lawn equipment, is there a way to eliminate the ethanol from the 15% we are forced to purchase?
Certainly boiling off the alcohol would not work since it boils at a lower temperature than ethanol. And that would be kind of scary any way.
Are we all going to have to get Reverse Osmosis devices to purify our fuel?
When people can not get E-0 for lawn equipment, is there a way to eliminate the ethanol from the 15% we are forced to purchase?
Certainly boiling off the alcohol would not work since it boils at a lower temperature than ethanol. And that would be kind of scary any way.
Are we all going to have to get Reverse Osmosis devices to purify our fuel?
Not to be dense, but Huh?
The problem in some areas there is no choice, we have had ethanol at 15% now for over a year and E85 for decades now.
The biggest issue is storage or letting things sit, on a machine that runs all the time its not a major issue other than you use more fuel, about 15% more. The nearest pure gas dealer is over 100 miles away across state lines. The cost to go get it in a truck that gets 10 mpg, makes it a non option.
What I find is that older motors that rely on rubber diaphragms like the Briggs pulse jet carbs fail super fast, to the tune of one a year or more. What I do is simply keep a can of canned gas for starting using a squirt bottle. Since it takes more E85 to fire a cold engine, just the choke don't always cut it, so I pull the air cleaner lid, and give the carb a shot of gas, after that it good for the day.
I never let a machine sit more than a week with fuel in it, either drain it or run it out of gas.
I used to use Seafoam but started making my own using diesel fuel, naptha, and a shot of methanol. I do about 5oz of diesel to 5 gallons, (up to 10oz if you want, and half as much of the naptha and methanol.
Methanol is dry gas, its more volatile than ethanol and increases the water holding capacity of the fuel, rather than having it separate. The methanol can be skipped if the tank or can is fully sealed all the time.
The oil sort of creates a skim coating on the surface of the fuel blocking it from absorbing moisture from the air in the container or tank. At least that's how it was explained to me by a refinery lab I happened to visit at work.
If the gas has already aged, about 2oz of acetone per gallon will help correct it and allow it to burn as well as cleaning the carburetor a bit.
Someone gave me a bottle of an additive called Pri-G, they work for a refinery and swear by it. But its expensive. Its suppose to allow even the worse gas to still be used provided that the carb is not gelled up or clogged with rust. I've run it, it works but I'm not spending what they want for it. My home mix has done me well now for the last 10 or more years.
The biggest issue is storage or letting things sit, on a machine that runs all the time its not a major issue other than you use more fuel, about 15% more. The nearest pure gas dealer is over 100 miles away across state lines. The cost to go get it in a truck that gets 10 mpg, makes it a non option.
What I find is that older motors that rely on rubber diaphragms like the Briggs pulse jet carbs fail super fast, to the tune of one a year or more. What I do is simply keep a can of canned gas for starting using a squirt bottle. Since it takes more E85 to fire a cold engine, just the choke don't always cut it, so I pull the air cleaner lid, and give the carb a shot of gas, after that it good for the day.
I never let a machine sit more than a week with fuel in it, either drain it or run it out of gas.
I used to use Seafoam but started making my own using diesel fuel, naptha, and a shot of methanol. I do about 5oz of diesel to 5 gallons, (up to 10oz if you want, and half as much of the naptha and methanol.
Methanol is dry gas, its more volatile than ethanol and increases the water holding capacity of the fuel, rather than having it separate. The methanol can be skipped if the tank or can is fully sealed all the time.
The oil sort of creates a skim coating on the surface of the fuel blocking it from absorbing moisture from the air in the container or tank. At least that's how it was explained to me by a refinery lab I happened to visit at work.
If the gas has already aged, about 2oz of acetone per gallon will help correct it and allow it to burn as well as cleaning the carburetor a bit.
Someone gave me a bottle of an additive called Pri-G, they work for a refinery and swear by it. But its expensive. Its suppose to allow even the worse gas to still be used provided that the carb is not gelled up or clogged with rust. I've run it, it works but I'm not spending what they want for it. My home mix has done me well now for the last 10 or more years.
Mine doesn't have a primer bulb, so maybe just gravity and vacuum? It has the 'Easy Start' setup, which accomplishes the same as what I have always done before- pull the cord slowly a few times before trying to start it, but the Easy Start closes the choke a bit.