troy bilt Bronco wiring diagram
- Thread starter nbpt100
- Start date
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hello N.,
What kind of electrical problem are you having? Diagrams can be difficult to find. This model had fairly simple wiring.
What kind of electrical problem are you having? Diagrams can be difficult to find. This model had fairly simple wiring.
I may now have the answer, However, I do not yet know. ..........I am doing a repower with a brand new Briggs engine. When I wired the battery the lights came on. The key was off. Engine off. If I unplugged the 2 ignition switch connectors the lights stayed on. When I unplug the red charging wire they go off. Some how power is going to the light circuit through the red charging wire. I was told by the salesman this should be plug and play with my Bronco and this engine. There are 4 wires in the 6 pin connector. Red, Grey, Black, Orange. I believe the Orange is for an accessory. Grey is DC for the carb solenoid. Black is ground. Red is the charging wire putting out dc to the battery. My understanding is the lights run off AC? NO? I noticed on the new engine the red wire coming from the regulator is jumped to the orange wire. I am suspicious the Orange may feed be feeding the lights. The light wires are green and blue. I can not follow them completely but they do appear to go to both connectors on the ignition switch. The lights are suppose to be on when the engine is running. Maybe also key on engine off. I am not sure because I never saw this machine run. My thought is I need to cap off the orange wire. The lights will run only from the Engine and be isolated from the battery. I do not have much experince with tractor electrical stuff. What do you experts think.??? I know, if I had a wiring diagram I could figure it out. But they are not made available to the public any longer. You need to be an MTD dealer from what I have been reading.
BTW I have not yet tried to start the engine. I am also concerned the Rectifier/regulator may be bad. I know this is a long shot but stranger thiings have happened.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
It appears that your new replacement engine has a different charging stator. This is a 2023 model and already needs and engine?
Sounds like oil was never checked since new.
Sounds like oil was never checked since new.
I assume that is the case. I got it with a blown engine.
Thanks for the diagram but that is tough to read. I believe it is a 9 amp stator. Remember, the lights are always on as long as the battery is connected. I did start the engine and the lights stayed on. I was advised to cap off the orange wire to see if they go off when the engine is off. I did so and That killed the lights in all cases. Key off, engine On and KOEO. I will likely put it back and look for a solution elsewhere.
On the Engine side the red wire coming out of the rectifier is jumped to the orange wire that is suppose to be an accessory , like the lights. I am going to look for shorts under the frame where wires can rub and potentially short. I already noticed the insulation on the wire going to the seat switch is damaged. It is not causing an issue but if that is already exposing bare copper it may be happening else where.
On the Engine side the red wire coming out of the rectifier is jumped to the orange wire that is suppose to be an accessory , like the lights. I am going to look for shorts under the frame where wires can rub and potentially short. I already noticed the insulation on the wire going to the seat switch is damaged. It is not causing an issue but if that is already exposing bare copper it may be happening else where.
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Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
The diagram is a little light with the printing, but it can be followed if enlarged to 25% and each wire followed carefully. This shows to operate the headlights through the start switch assembly.
Yes, the headlights work off of a split circuit stator that supplies the AC current. They are powered by a blue wire off of the stator chassis to engine connector on the original engine.
The original engine likely had an inline charging diode wire, and the replacement engine has an actual 12V rectifier/ regulator. They are different charging systems.
The flywheel needs to be removed, and the stator installed from the original engine from the sound of this situation.
Yes, the headlights work off of a split circuit stator that supplies the AC current. They are powered by a blue wire off of the stator chassis to engine connector on the original engine.
The original engine likely had an inline charging diode wire, and the replacement engine has an actual 12V rectifier/ regulator. They are different charging systems.
The flywheel needs to be removed, and the stator installed from the original engine from the sound of this situation.
thanks. I don't have the old stator. You are right the new engine has a rectifier/regulator. IT sure appears the only AC wire from the Stator goes right into the rectifier. No other wire but ground. So all power is DC? right?
I was now able to read the diagram. It seems a little different than my Bronco's actual wiring in that the blue alternator wiring on the 6 pin connector is an orange wire that I am told is used for an accessory. The lighting wires are actually blue and green as the diagram shows. Some how the orange wire connects with the Blue lights wire. The Orange wire is getting power from both the rectifier and from the battery. When I disconnected them the lights went out permenantly and tractor had running issues.
I do not know enough to modify the wiring to get the lights to only come on when the engine is running. My simple thinking is to put a toggle switch on the lights green ground wire to control the lighting. Not ideal, but it is all I know enough to do.
Small Engine Warehouse provided me with this general guidance attached.
Am I missing an easy way to modify something so the light will only work while the engine is on?
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hello N.,
It is common for wire colors to change from the engine harness to the chassis harness. This creates confusion unless you have adapted a few engine swaps in the past.
Sometimes these engine swaps don't come easy and minor modifications have to be made. Installing a simple 2-pin weatherproof toggle switch for the headlights would work. Just "T" into the small battery charge wire to feed power to the headlamp switch, then attach the blue headlight wire to the other terminal of the switch. I advise you to put an inline fuse holder & fuse in the headlight circuit near the switch to avoid any future issues if a headlight wire gets grounded or pinched. This way you can control the headlights on/off with the engine running or not running.
My blind guess:
The new engine has 2 wires coming from the stator under the flywheel to the voltage regulator. The regulator is attached to the engine and grounded internally through the metal housing. The regulator has a 2-wire connector that attaches to the stator plug and the lone red-wire is the 12V DC charge wire that goes to the battery.
Is this close to what you have?
A couple of pictures of the regulator wiring would be ideal if you can attach them.
It is common for wire colors to change from the engine harness to the chassis harness. This creates confusion unless you have adapted a few engine swaps in the past.
Sometimes these engine swaps don't come easy and minor modifications have to be made. Installing a simple 2-pin weatherproof toggle switch for the headlights would work. Just "T" into the small battery charge wire to feed power to the headlamp switch, then attach the blue headlight wire to the other terminal of the switch. I advise you to put an inline fuse holder & fuse in the headlight circuit near the switch to avoid any future issues if a headlight wire gets grounded or pinched. This way you can control the headlights on/off with the engine running or not running.
My blind guess:
The new engine has 2 wires coming from the stator under the flywheel to the voltage regulator. The regulator is attached to the engine and grounded internally through the metal housing. The regulator has a 2-wire connector that attaches to the stator plug and the lone red-wire is the 12V DC charge wire that goes to the battery.
Is this close to what you have?
A couple of pictures of the regulator wiring would be ideal if you can attach them.
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