Kawasaki FH680V Overheating

RevB

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An inexpensive IR thermal gun is worth its weight when diagnosing some problems. Objective measurement beats subjective measurements every time. 😏

Well...that's just not true. As an aviator of injected engines, you may have the capability to run rich of peak EGT or lean of peak EGT......rich uses excess fuel to cool an engine, lean uses excess air to cool the engine. Air is free and does not contaminate crankcase oil nor leave excess carbon. Even a carbureted engine has the ability, tho much more limited, to do the same thing. Years ago someone attributed an engine failure to lean combustion and "burned valves"....the only way you get burned valves or seats is to hold the valve faces off the seat and let combustion gasses erode either one....most likely the valve because thermal mass is much less and the valve gets hotter than the seat which is very effective at shedding excess heat thru the head's mass.
Almost forgot....the old spark testers were just neon bulbs in a non conductive pen except for a cupped aluminum cap that fit over the plug wire. If the bulb lit up, spark. Also useful to check electric fences to see if they're on or not.
 

outdoorpowermike

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Poor pto switch or connection at the pto switch will turn off engine, so will a poor contact at the 20 amp fuse that feeds the mower from the battery. Try checking these for possible porblems.
 

outdoorpowermike

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Poor pto switch or connection at the pto switch will turn off engine, so will a poor contact at the 20 amp fuse that feeds the mower from the battery. Try checking these for possible problems.
 

djg618

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To reply to a couple of you guys suggestions (@Davenj4f , @ILENGINE , @LMPPLUS , @outdoorpowermike). I've cleaned the cooling fins before so that's not the issue. I checked both coils for spark right after it dies and both sides have spark.

I'm ordering a PTO switch since sometimes I have to engage/disengage it before the key will turn over the engine. I'll check/replace all the fuses too.
 

Douglas Lee

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Is the battery charging when the machine is running?
Thanks,
Douglas Lee
*
 

djg618

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Update:

I put in a new PTO switch. Didn't help. I put in a new key switch. Still dies. Today it would not start after 'cooling down' for 2 hours. Had to drag it 100 yards back to my shade tree with my truck.

I've been noticing the fuel filter is empty when it dies. Changed the filter. Nothing. It starts for a second and then dies. I even removed the caps and it wouldn't start. Will not stay running.

The new carb came today with a new fuel pump. For grins, I'll install the new one and try to start it/mow. I had put a new one on previously but it wouldn't start. I thought it might be bad so I put the original one back on and it started right up. If it doesn't start with the new (2nd one) pump, then I think I'm chasing a fuel flow issue. I'll look at gas tanks, fuel lines and shut off valve again.

Someone mentioned the impulse line. I changed all three lines running to the fuel pump. But I didn't check if the impulse port on the carb was cleared. If blocked, that would certainly effect the pump. Anyone ever pull a vacuum on the port? Will that ruin a carb?
 

slomo

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Don't forget to check the fins inside the shroud.
This tip, is in, every, air cooled engine manual, regardless of brand, known to man. It's a yearly or more often like bagging grass maintenance item.
 

slomo

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Almost forgot....the old spark testers were just neon bulbs in a non conductive pen
Which basically tells you zero about the "condition" of your spark. Those Christmas light types are junk. We have better tools now.
 

djg618

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This tip, is in, every, air cooled engine manual, regardless of brand, known to man. It's a yearly or more often like bagging grass maintenance item.
I completely cleaned under the shroud last year when this problem occurred. Plan on checking again.
 
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