Kawasaki FD750D-AS04 running poorly

Auto Doc's

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Maybe they did not have the throttle wide open (high) and choke fully open? Need to retest to verify. For both cylinders to be low would be unusual.
 

ILENGINE

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Auto Doc there is no way of knowing how long this engine has been acting up. Maybe it hasn't been running correctly for several years. And what I have been reading makes it sound like sudden low compression and loss of power and shutting down is more common that you would think. Several people that tore down the engine reported stuck rings. And this engine has symptoms of being an oil burner. #1 cylinder shows signs of oil burning on the plug I took out with oily residue on top of both pistons when examined with a borescope.

I also have a Kawasaki Mule 3010 with the FD620D that is showing similar issues at the shop. If I get a chance tomorrow will rerun compression on the 750 and check compression on the 620
 

Auto Doc's

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Auto Doc there is no way of knowing how long this engine has been acting up. Maybe it hasn't been running correctly for several years. And what I have been reading makes it sound like sudden low compression and loss of power and shutting down is more common that you would think. Several people that tore down the engine reported stuck rings. And this engine has symptoms of being an oil burner. #1 cylinder shows signs of oil burning on the plug I took out with oily residue on top of both pistons when examined with a borescope.

I also have a Kawasaki Mule 3010 with the FD620D that is showing similar issues at the shop. If I get a chance tomorrow will rerun compression on the 750 and check compression on the 620

Hello ILENGINE: For Horizontal shaft engines, I use a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone, put the pistons at about the halfway point, pour in the mixture and reinstall the plugs finger tight. Let the mixture creep in for about a day, then remove the plugs a purge the cylinder by cranking the engine. From there check the oil level, because it will likely be high. Change the oil and filter then install the plugs and fire it up. I have freed up a lot of carbon stuck rings in horizontal shaft engines using this method. Vertical shaft engines are a little more difficult and it takes a couple of times with the mixture while jacking the mower up high on the engine end to get as much saturation in the cylinder(s) as possible.


 
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ILENGINE

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I also have a Kawasaki Mule 3010 with the FD620D that is showing similar issues at the shop. If I get a chance tomorrow will rerun compression on the 750 and check compression on the 620
Checked compression on both the 750 and the 620 The 750 is reading 125-130 on both cylinders hot. For comparison the 620 is reading 170 on #1 and 220 on #2. The Mule is having intermittent issues with the valve in the electric fuel pump which didn't act up the day I was doing the initial testing on the no start issue.
 

Auto Doc's

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Hello ILENGINE,

I know you are trying to cover two machines with similar engines, but let's take one at a time to keep things direct and simple. Adding in variables from other machines just creates confusion.

What seems similar is not when it comes to this stuff.
 

Its Me

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remove the valve covers check to see if the push roads are seated in the cam area in the block.
 
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Ok, from what you say the carb needs to removed and cleaned the correct way, with a ultrasonic cleaner, I use it every time with lean running carbs. Fixes 95% of the time with new intake gaskets. Or just replace carb with new carb. Some times cleaner can't fix it. Really never had any problems with amazon carbs. After market stuff works 99% of the time and not a lot of cash, like under $50.00 maybe. I guess it is a 2 bbr carb? One side of carb is clogged. But spray around intake manifold by cyl heads and see if rpm changes.
 

ILENGINE

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I guess it is a 2 bbr carb? One side of carb is clogged. But spray around intake manifold by cyl heads and see if rpm changes.
Spraying around intake manifold gaskets does nothing. Spraying into the carb causing a rich run. I have since discovered posting this that the fuel pump is bleeding off, so I am questioning fuel flow. Have a new pump ordered and will see what happens.
 

ILENGINE

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Ok, from what you say the carb needs to removed and cleaned the correct way, with a ultrasonic cleaner, I use it every time with lean running carbs. Fixes 95% of the time with new intake gaskets. Or just replace carb with new carb. Some times cleaner can't fix it.
This thing has already been through the 2.3 gallon 6 transducer ultrasonic cleaner for 2 30 minute cycles, plus had all the passages ran with a thin wire and blown out with both carb cleaner and compressed air. And my experience with Amazon carbs has been not great. All have tended to fail within 30 minutes for various reasons. I order Amazon carbs just to steal the parts off of. Like the accelerator pump for a Kohler Command engine. Or the fuel bowl and throttle slide for ATV carbs.
 
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