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yth22v46 bent pulleys/destroyed belt

#1

R

red rider

hi 'yall . have a yth22v46 that threw/destroyed it's belt and now seems like pulleys are out of line? but i dont know the specs when they where new. whether they are all supposed to be in the same plane, horizontally speaking. obviously they should probably all be level with one another and two are no longer, but it also seems two are at different heights? that would not have been because of the incident but it makes little sense unless the belt does not ride in the center of each pulley.

but primarily, the 3rd pulley from the left, which is also the highest is the most out of level/bent but the orange welded bracket seems fine. how could that strong bracket have bent ? any ideas ?

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#2

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

The 3rd pulley from the left is find. It is supposed to be mounted on that angle to guide the belt coming off of the spindle pulley back to the engine pulley. The second pulley from left looks like it maybe setting too low which could be a result of wear in the pivot arm and bushing.


#3

R

red rider

interesting, so it is supposed to be tilted and higher than the others. so the rest should be level in in the same plane with one another? yes, I believe the second from left is bent down, that one i can fix...I previously broke another belt because the front bar that holds the front of the deck, slowly comes loose, so i added a backup nut to the original nut and now it seems to stay put. And so since that is fixed, and i still broke a belt, I wonder why that happened. Something must have gotten caught in there since I no longer believe things are out of alignment.


#4

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

interesting, so it is supposed to be tilted and higher than the others. so the rest should be level in in the same plane with one another? yes, I believe the second from left is bent down, that one i can fix...I previously broke another belt because the front bar that holds the front of the deck, slowly comes loose, so i added a backup nut to the original nut and now it seems to stay put. And so since that is fixed, and i still broke a belt, I wonder why that happened. Something must have gotten caught in there since I no longer believe things are out of alignment.
No way to accurately assess the deck pulleys and spindles condition, angles, and correct alignment from this one pitiful little picture.

How old is mower and how many hours on meter?


#5

StarTech

StarTech

Check moving point of the idler moving arm for wear. If worn replace it and the stepped washer. This idler is made of soft metal and wear quickly at pivot allowing it to tilt. Notice the idler pulley wear pattern it is all over the full width.


#6

A

Auto Doc's

Wild guess: The idler with the most paint still on it was replaced, and the belt retainer guide tab was not set back on the locating hole to make sure it would not drag on the belt.


#7

R

red rider

250 hrs. I have a video but it's not very helpful, as the angles are hard to capture and are deceiving. And there is no reference. the deck itself is sloping, and husqvarna provides no specs on what the ideal spindle angles should be. They should have something that specs that X spindle's should all be in same plane, and the
Wild guess: The idler with the most paint still on it was replaced, and the belt retainer guide tab was not set back on the locating hole to make sure it would not drag on the belt.
mower has 250 hours. all pulleys are original and seem to spin freely and dont look particularly worn to my untrained eyes. i have a kit of new pulleys i could put on but at this point, it doesn't seem like they are sticky and responsible for the broken belt. here is pic of the furthest left pulley you are mentioning and next to it the idler pulley and its arm. this one i need to bend back up a touch.....regarding that tensioner pulley. the taughtness of the belt is from the bolt on other side of deck. I had previously been unable to get the belt to engage and determined it was due to the belt being too loose. I then bought a new belt and was not much better. I assume belt manufacturering specs are not perfect and was a touch too big, so i drilled and added a backup bolt behind it so i can pull the tensioner another quarter inch or so, and after that , was able to get the blades to engage. I used it that way for few months and then the belt broke. I dont think it was overtight, but perhaps it was. But i had to tighten it a touch to get the blades to even engage so I dont know how else to have resolved that issue. In any case, sounds like i may just have to relevel the idler pulley, and try a new belt and see what happens

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#8

A

Auto Doc's

250 hrs. I have a video but it's not very helpful, as the angles are hard to capture and are deceiving. And there is no reference. the deck itself is sloping, and husqvarna provides no specs on what the ideal spindle angles should be. They should have something that specs that X spindle's should all be in same plane, and the

mower has 250 hours. all pulleys are original and seem to spin freely and dont look particularly worn to my untrained eyes. i have a kit of new pulleys i could put on but at this point, it doesn't seem like they are sticky and responsible for the broken belt. here is pic of the furthest left pulley you are mentioning and next to it the idler pulley and its arm. this one i need to bend back up a touch.....regarding that tensioner pulley. the taughtness of the belt is from the bolt on other side of deck. I had previously been unable to get the belt to engage and determined it was due to the belt being too loose. I then bought a new belt and was not much better. I assume belt manufacturering specs are not perfect and was a touch too big, so i drilled and added a backup bolt behind it so i can pull the tensioner another quarter inch or so, and after that , was able to get the blades to engage. I used it that way for few months and then the belt broke. I dont think it was overtight, but perhaps it was. But i had to tighten it a touch to get the blades to even engage so I dont know how else to have resolved that issue. In any case, sounds like i may just have to relevel the idler pulley, and try a new belt and see what happens
Am I correct to assume this is a manual handle operated deck?

Can you give a full top view of the deck and pullies when you get an opportunity.

The reason the idlers are wide and at a bit of an angle is normal. It compensates for the deck to be set a different cutting heights.

Your belt dilemma and modification have me wondering if you are ordering the correct belt from an actual parts vendor or Amazon.


#9

R

red rider

yes, manual blade engage. ...I've learned that the big main pulley should be at an angle, but you are suggesting that littler idler that the belt tensioner connects to, should also be left at the angle it is at?.... I was just about to 'level' it, but will wait............the last belt (the one that just broke), was taken from this kit. I haven't installed the pulleys etc yet, but i did use this belt.

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#10

R

red rider

front left has two holes drilled for holding the tension rod and the front right shows the tensioner pulley , at a slight angle, out of plane with the two outer main pulleys, which are in the same plane. the second from left pulley is intentionally angled

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#11

A

Auto Doc's

Hello R.,

From this picture, I think the belt retainer tab is clocked in the wrong position for the larger idler pulley. Loosen the pulley partially and see if the retainer tab will align at about the 4 o'clock position. That and the tab should tab be closer to the pulley. They are spring steel, so the pulley may have to fully removed and then the tab bent and test fitted. Most of the belt retainer tabs on a stationary idler have an alignment tit that fits in the hole of the deck mount welded bracket.


#12

R

red rider

this is a pic i got off the web. it's hard to tell because that idler arm swings around when it's not under tension and so i dont know what his would look like when it is in final position

maxresdefault-1374658532.jpg



, but it does seem that mine may be different, or installed wrong? I checked manual and service manual and couldn't get a good sense of how it is even supposed to be, so maybe the kids at lowe's who put mine together didnt put it on correct?2025-10-29 17_31_30-VID_20251029_160018110.mp4 - VLC media player.jpg









maxresdefault-1374658532.jpg


#13

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

The first and third pictures in your post are for the electric clutch version were you have the manual engagement.


#14

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

No way to accurately assess the deck pulleys and spindles condition, angles, and correct alignment from this one pitiful little picture.

250 hrs. I have a video but it's not very helpful, as the angles are hard to capture and are deceiving. And there is no reference. the deck itself is sloping, and husqvarna provides no specs on what the ideal spindle angles should be. They should have something that specs that X spindle's should all be in same plane, and the

mower has 250 hours. all pulleys are original and seem to spin freely and dont look particularly worn to my untrained eyes. i have a kit of new pulleys i could put on but at this point, it doesn't seem like they are sticky and responsible for the broken belt. here is pic of the furthest left pulley you are mentioning and next to it the idler pulley and its arm. this one i need to bend back up a touch.....regarding that tensioner pulley. the taughtness of the belt is from the bolt on other side of deck. I had previously been unable to get the belt to engage and determined it was due to the belt being too loose. I then bought a new belt and was not much better. I assume belt manufacturering specs are not perfect and was a touch too big, so i drilled and added a backup bolt behind it so i can pull the tensioner another quarter inch or so, and after that , was able to get the blades to engage. I used it that way for few months and then the belt broke. I dont think it was overtight, but perhaps it was. But i had to tighten it a touch to get the blades to even engage so I dont know how else to have resolved that issue. In any case, sounds like i may just have to relevel the idler pulley, and try a new belt and see what happens
Belt tension is important for longevity of belt and cut quality. If you had to adjust the engagement cable position or slightly move a spring to get the belt to engage the blades, it was obviously way too loose. There should be about a half inch or so of belt deflection when you push belt, at the longest point between two spindles.


#15

StarTech

StarTech

I have found that the el cheapo idler arm needs replacing most of the time along the step. It is a flimsy piece of metal which why it sold for less than $10. Matter of fact I got three of in stock that cost me $2.40 a piece from my last distributor. Now of course they are going to cost $3.60 from my current distributor.
1761832319177.png
It mostly thin metal that bends easily and the round pivot hole wears oval and also the sides where the step washer goes wears thinner allowing the arm to tilt more over time. So for $20 plus shipping it is well worth it to replace it no matter what.


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