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I have a Craftsman 917.272463 (21.5hp OHV 445777) that I thought had a bad wire somewhere. Sometimes, I had to move the wiring harness around a the solenoid just a little and it would kick off. And it wouldn't shut off right away. Usually it would take two or three seconds to shut off, after turning the switch off. So, I put another harness off of a 917.272672. All the colors and connectors matched.
But the problem is still there. This other harness, actually has a legible meter. And looking at the meter, WOW, it's all the way to the right. Like a dummy, I switched the two meter wires, and tried it, and got the exact opposite, all the way to the negative.

I'm all ears for suggestions. I have a customer coming to look at it later this week, and can't sell it like this. Can someone give me any idea's as to what to look for? I hate wiring, but understand the basics. (just the basics).

Everything was cleaned before I installed the new harness. Upon thinking about this, the juice that produced at the alternator, has to be regulated somehow. When I disconnect the two black wires that connect to what I'm guessing is the regulator, the meter goes to the middle. Close to where it should be. Seems the needle usually runs a little to the right of center. But when I disconnect them, it's dead center.

You have eliminated the wiring so now is the time to check all the switches. My guess is the key switch.

BlazNT said:

You have eliminated the wiring so now is the time to check all the switches. My guess is the key switch.

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It's a different key switch. In fact, it's a new one. I put that one on when I first started seeing this. That was with the old harness on it. Safety switch going out?

You've got me thinking, because when I'd have to move the wiring to start it, I'd have to lean over to get to it. Sometimes, when I'd shut the key off, I'd even get completely off the mower, and it would still be running. Not for very long. But some times, when it was start to die (key off) it would almost be shut off, then pick back up again.

I suppose I need to change safety switches. I doubt I'm gonna find a bad one, because it works most of the time. It never shuts off by itself, with the key on.

Your best bet is to find your wiring harness diagram and trace everything out, might be one in your owners manual, if not, you'll need a service manual.

Make sure you have a good connection to earth (ground) from the key switch, you could take off the kill wire at the key switch, start the engine, and then ground the wire to see if the engine stops.

I agree with the key switch not being grounded. Now when you turn off the key the solenoid on the carb is shutting down and it has to run out of gas to stop the engine, where it should be grounding the ignition module and stop it instantly through the key switch. The key switch is probably mounted in a plastic dash and lost its ground.

The dash is metal. Key switch is plastic, (IIRC) I'm not there at the moment. Isn't there a grounded wire going into the key switch? I know there's one under the right rear fender. Cleaned that one off when I changed wiring harnesses.

check the wires coming from the coil and alternator stator

You mentioned this OTHER harness has a meter..?? Is it a VOLT-meter or an AMMETER ..??

Boobala said:

You mentioned this OTHER harness has a meter..?? Is it a VOLT-meter or an AMMETER ..??

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I couldn't tell you. The meter was there, and connected. But the clips were broken, so it wouldn't stay in place. And all the lettering was faded. I couldn't really tell you if the meter was in it's normal position, just to the right of center. (when it was running.

Update on this: I sold it yesterday afternoon, as is. Told the man what I was experiencing with it. And he bought it anyways. I got $475 for it. It was worth a lot more. 21.5hp briggs. I put tubes in 3 tires. Replace the panel were the deck level slots are. Had to buy the plastic air filter cover for it. New starter. Rebuilt carb. New belts & blade. And IIRC, new bearrings in one of the spindles. New battery. PLus, when I got it, there was a lot of surface rust that I wire wheeled off, and repainted. I had a lot of time in this one. Glad it's gone. But wished I could've found the problem.

The ONLY two grounds (for wires) was the one below the batter (on the frame) and the one under the seat (by the gas tank) Both of those were cleaned. If the key switch itself needed to be grounded, that could've been the problem. Because when the key switch was off, I sanded and repainted the dash (outside)

Sounds to me like you did not replace the switch with the correct switch. Instead of grounding out the ignition in the off position, it was just cutting the voltage to the fuel cut solenoid, hence the 3-4 second lag to shut-off. Many switches may look alike, but the terminals serve different functions. Sounds like the buyer got himself a pretty good deal.

Honda Tech said:

Sounds to me like you did not replace the switch with the correct switch. Instead of grounding out the ignition in the off position, it was just cutting the voltage to the fuel cut solenoid, hence the 3-4 second lag to shut-off. Many switches may look alike, but the terminals serve different functions. Sounds like the buyer got himself a pretty good deal.

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I did not know that. Thank you. I'll have to do some checking on the switches I have.