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Not sure if those would go on the MTD forum or not.

Anyhow, around ten years old and only 86 hours so kinda would like to get it going. It's the 46" triple blade model with the 22hp tecumseh. No model number right at the moment, been outside sweating, in the ac now. You don't need one. LOL.

Anyways I seem to be in brake mode? When you spin the rear tires they go in opposite directions so i'm assuming that's the brake. At any rate when you pull the pin on the rear end for freewheel, it does move the linkage bar on the rear end. But it won't go into free wheel mode. When I depress the brake pedal it moves a linkage bar on the rear end, but unlike the clutch linkage that turns a shaft that goes into the casing, it seems to just be on a stud that merely acts as a swivel point. This linkage doesn't appear to be hooked to anything anywhere. I have to wonder if something is missing? My first inclination was take the rear end off, which i've done on other mowers, but that might not required and would be a lot of extra work if not.

I guess I need to find a diagram of this damn thing somewhere. I just rebuilt my JD and really missed having a backup so i'd like to get this going if I can. Not only that, this mower seems to be built a lot better than the newer style JD that I have. I'm not a mower expert, obviously, but I am mechanical and can see a lot of more thought out and expensive to make parts on the White compared to the JD, it is heavier built.

If you insist on numbers you'll have to wait till later today or tomorrow I can't get up at the moment lol.

PDF Manual Web Archive Your model number is 13A4616H790.

Thanks Mark, ill look at that tomorrow. It is an LT 946H.

I'm convinced it has something to do with the brake linkage. The brake pedal goes to a 2" metal flat on the rear end. However the bolt it's connected to doesn't turn, and I don't think it's supposed to. It's not hooked up to anything and just moves back and forth. It does have a snap back spring on it. Perhaps i'm wrong about the bolt not suppose to turn, but it sure doesn't appear that way. On each side of the 2" flat are a 1/4" round stainless stub. The 2" flat is bent in such a way it looks as if it's almost suppose to come into contact with these but doesn't. I have to wonder if they are fully depressed and didn't release? Someone that works on these would probably know right off. If any of this sounds feel familiar please fire away! Thanks.

mechanic mark said:

PDF Manual Web Archive Your model number is 13A4616H790.

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LOL you're most certainly correct the suspense was getting to me so I went and looked. If I can't figure it out i'll say something. Thanks!

Well nvmd I still don't have the serial number ill find it tomorrow. I assumed the model was the L whatever cause it says the serial is 11 digits. Happens so is the model. Not a clue where it's at yet.

Ok, so the serial is under the seat it's 1L104H10303. I'll go see if that works on the site. If anyone else wants to take a look feel free! LOL.

The bracket that part 31 goes into s what I was talking about. Unfort don't see much in the way of what might help, and nothing mentioned, that I seen, in the troubleshooting guide. I will tinker with it some more sometime today.

Added, did a bit of a google search for specific problem(why I didn't before not sure) and came across the following comment so I could be on to something we'll see:


"Just because the lever is moving freely on the brake assembly does not necessarily mean the brake is disengaged. There are a couple of pins that apply pressure to the disc pads, these pins can get rust or corrosion on them and stick, also the disc is supposed to float on the shaft that it's attached to and it can get stuck also, either of these two conditions can cause the rear end to bind. "

Ok, so all i've done so far is confirm that those 2 pins are indeed the brake as they push in and against an external disc that is around 2.5" in diameter. They aren't stuck in, they were free floating when I took the brake bracket off.

This round brake disc won't free up, and that's with the pins removed. It seems to be something internal.

This mower does have a manual parking brake, but it is on the console of the mower and I believe it is mechanical and just pushes a rod or something onto the brake linkage to hold. I can't say i'm 100% right and that it doesn't work off some sort of microswitch as I can't see anything in there so i'm only mentioning this in case someone knows.

So..........i'm getting to know my mower well. But I still don't know what's wrong with it. Pulling the release pin for free wheeling on the rear of the mower doesn't help, and yes it's hooked up and moving the linkage on the rear end.

Ok, took the entire brake assembly off. Including the disc and pads. When you turn the rear tires by hand, the shaft the disc goes on doesn't turn. It's not frozen up, you can move it on the outside. Depressing the clutch, pulling the freewheel linkage, nothing i've tried will make this shaft turn. I'm fearing something internal is broke and i'm pretty much stuck at this point until someone with further knowledge chimes in, hopefully. Thanks.

Ok,so I just a complete mower education:

Hi, i am about to purchase a used 2000 White Outdoor lawn tractor

Like I mentioned earlier, I can tell that the White is built considerably better than my newer style JD. However, this article mentions the first thing MTD did was put in a cheap tranny. And that's my problem.

So now I have a tractor that has less than 100hrs, a 22hp tecumseh v-twin that starts right up and sounds great, and a trashed rear end.

Well, I don't really know it's trashed because I haven't talked to anyone yet.

I'm pretty sure the rear end is a 618-0319 and they are around $500 including shipping.

Added: My cheap box store JD is now 10 years old and has been ran pretty hard. However i've kept the oil changed. It has a BS twinv engine on it. I just rebuilt the entire mower deck and changed both belts. The motor is a bit hard to start but runs like a top and doesn't burn oil. Although cheaply made, I can see getting a few more seasons out of it, provided no rear end issues lol and I thought it was well worth the $200 worth of parts I put on it.

Question is, will I have this problem again? Did I get a lemon? If I spent $500 and thought I could get 10 years out of it I would do it.

Of course, not to say mine can't be fixed yet that's still to discuss.