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What do to about my 13 year old lawn ? Compacted soil ? Fungus ? Old age ?

Jun 23, 2014#1

MowerMark

13 years ago 50-50 Rye/blue sod was installed. For these 13 years I had 1500 sq.ft. of the nicest lawn in the neighborhood until a year ago right after a professional aerator man punctured the lawn. I thought it would do good, but the lawn went downhill ever since.

It develop patches of yellow, mostly circular, and no consultant was certain of the diagnosis. I had a Rep from the sod company look at the areas, and he suspected fungus. I used Monterey Fungi Fighter with good improvement . Had to use it again (8 ozs./5 one gallon of water) twice.

Now there is a new problem. Irregular areas in which the grass is shorter, yellowish tips, and it doesn't grow like the surrounding areas. The yellowing shorter areas can be circular, or look look several state outlines (that is, States in the USA). A few areas have died, so I torn them out and replaced it with good soil. Of the remaining "bad" areas, it seems the soil is compacted and hard to penetrate. So I used a rod and made many punctures in the hard areas, and watered them well tonight.

Went to an irrigation store, and they did NOT have "wetting agent", those compounds which make water "wetter". In the past year in the the San Francisco Bay Area, I cannot find anyone who specializes in grass diseases and care of lawns.

There has never been any insect problems. These compacted areas just seem dry. My plan is to put out cups to make sure all areas are being watered, adjust the automatic sprinklers, and continue puncturing the hard areas.

Give the severe drought here in California, and the age of this lawn, it's tempting to rip is out and replace the area with artificial turf.

I took some pictures if it helps, but don't know how to upload them here.

Any thoughts ?

Thank you.

Jun 23, 2014#2

Retiredcarguy

Lack of water may be the cause and answer. Planting a new lawn may bring the same result, considering your rainfall shortfall.

What have other property owners done in your area as an alternative to a green lawn?

Just maybe, the weather may change.

Jun 23, 2014#3

MowerMark

Retiredcarguy said:
Lack of water may be the cause and answer. Planting a new lawn may bring the same result, considering your rainfall shortfall.

What have other property owners done in your area as an alternative to a green lawn?

Just maybe, the weather may change.

No, other neighbor lawns remain intact, and I have not held back watering the lawn. Is there a person in the San Francisco Bay Area who specializes in lawn consultations ?

Jun 23, 2014#4

MowerMark

Retiredcarguy said:
Lack of water may be the cause and answer. Planting a new lawn may bring the same result, considering your rainfall shortfall.

What have other property owners done in your area as an alternative to a green lawn?

Just maybe, the weather may change.

Follow-up:

I used a long handle long shaft Phillips screwdriver and penetrated the grass in various areas. The soil was very hard in most areas SURROUNDING the abnormal area. My plan is to get an electric drill and long bit and make holes in the lawn, then water well. I have a manual aerator which is like a two hold puncher but it takes quite a bit of force and the hallow core often plugs up.

Any other suggestions ?

Jun 23, 2014#5

exotion

The hallow core is supposed to plug up. Then when you push again it should push out the old core.

Jun 24, 2014#6

MowerMark

MowerMark said:
Follow-up:

I used a long handle long shaft Phillips screwdriver and penetrated the grass in various areas. The soil was very hard in most areas SURROUNDING the abnormal area. My plan is to get an electric drill and long bit and make holes in the lawn, then water well. I have a manual aerator which is like a two hold puncher but it takes quite a bit of force and the hallow core often plugs up.

Any other suggestions ?

Key word = should.

The two I own have parallel-walled tubes, and the plug sticks therein. The cutting tubes should be slightly trapezoid, larger at the top.

Yesterday I used a two foot long drill bit attached to an electric drill and made multiple holes in the lawn, then watered again. Of note is that everywhere the lawn growth was sub-normal (yellowing, sparse, and or shorter) the soil was difficult to drill. I'll bet soil compaction is the answer. Will continue drilling and watering and report back here,

Jun 24, 2014#7

exotion

Should rent an actual core aerator. Will do a great job worth the investment. Or even hire a company to do it. Another thing is find a local university that does soil testing and get a ph test to see which kind of fertilizer to use. Then of course mow tall and mulch

Jun 24, 2014#8

MowerMark

exotion said:
Should rent an actual core aerator. Will do a great job worth the investment. Or even hire a company to do it. Another thing is find a local university that does soil testing and get a ph test to see which kind of fertilizer to use. Then of course mow tall and mulch

Remember, I had a "professional" aerating man come over and attack the lawn about a year, and it went downhill immediately. It has never been the same since. For over twelve years the lawn did well without aeration.

Jun 26, 2014#9

MowerMark

Wow! Pleased to report that after multiple drill holes then watering (as usual), the both lawns are 75% better. Awesome.

Jun 26, 2014#10

Buckeye10

MowerMark said:
Wow! Pleased to report that after multiple drill holes then watering (as usual), the both lawns are 75% better. Awesome.

That is good news. Did you ever try putting a heavy dose of lime on the yard?

Jun 26, 2014#11

MowerMark

Buckeye10 said:
That is good news. Did you ever try putting a heavy dose of lime on the yard?

No, I did not. I wanted to make just one change at a time. If the grass gets to 100% of its former self, should I sprinkle it with lime ? Will that make water "wetter" ?

Jun 26, 2014#12

Buckeye10

MowerMark said:
No, I did not. I wanted to make just one change at a time. If the grass gets to 100% of its former self, should I sprinkle it with lime ? Will that make water "wetter" ?

Lime will not hurt it at all and lime is very cheap. Here in Ohio I can get a 40 lb bag for around 6 dollars. Do you have a spreader? If so get however much you need and put a decent amount on. I do it like this, I spread it slightly heavier than I do traditional granule fertilizers because it not supposed to burn the yard. However I wont spread it if it is to dry or there is no rain predicted in the future. If you water your lawn than put it on whenever you want. I took out a row of pine trees the previous owner of my house planted right in the middle of the back yard. I never thought grass would grow. I limed the crap out of the area and the grass is deeper green than any other part of my yard.

Jun 26, 2014#13

MowerMark

Buckeye10 said:
Lime will not hurt it at all and lime is very cheap. Here in Ohio I can get a 40 lb bag for around 6 dollars. Do you have a spreader? If so get however much you need and put a decent amount on. I do it like this, I spread it slightly heavier than I do traditional granule fertilizers because it not supposed to burn the yard. However I wont spread it if it is to dry or there is no rain predicted in the future. If you water your lawn than put it on whenever you want. I took out a row of pine trees the previous owner of my house planted right in the middle of the back yard. I never thought grass would grow. I limed the crap out of the area and the grass is deeper green than any other part of my yard.

Yes, I have a drop spreader and found THREE large unopened bags of "Cal-Sul"®. The ingredients are listed as calcium sulfate dehydrate 86%, 21% calcium, and 16% sulfur. Yes, it strangely totals more than 100% ! Don't remember why I obtained Cal-Sul.

Is this what you suggest, or should I get something else ?

Jun 26, 2014#14

Buckeye10

MowerMark said:
Yes, I have a drop spreader and found THREE large unopened bags of "Cal-Sul"ｮ. The ingredients are listed as calcium sulfate dehydrate 86%, 21% calcium, and 16% sulfur. Yes, it strangely totals more than 100% ! Don't remember why I obtained Cal-Sul.

Is this what you suggest, or should I get something else ?

I do not know anything about cal-sul but you could probably put it on at the same time as the Lime. Lime is what is going to make your soil better for growing. I am 99.99% positive you can mix add both products to your lawn at the same time. How big is your lawn?

Jun 26, 2014#15

Buckeye10

This is a photo of my grass 2 years after I removed a row of 50ft tall pine trees. I used heavy lime to get good growing soil. All the tire tracks you see are from my application of Gordan's liquid weed and feed I put on Sunday. I am going to stripe it this weekend.

Now I am not saying soil is your problem. But lime is so damn cheap its worth a try.

Jun 27, 2014#16

MowerMark

Buckeye10 said:
This is a photo of my grass 2 years after I removed a row of 50ft tall pine trees. I used heavy lime to get good growing soil. All the tire tracks you see are from my application of Gordan's liquid weed and feed I put on Sunday. I am going to stripe it this weekend.

Now I am not saying soil is your problem. But lime is so damn cheap its worth a try.

My lawn looks close to yours now. 500 ft2 and 1000 ft2. Sure I'll get Lime. Any certain brand or percentage ? Rate and frequency of application ?

Jun 27, 2014#17

Buckeye10

That picture is just a small portion where the trees used to be. I have around 2 acres of grass so fertilizing gets expensive and watering isnt really an option. About the lime, I honestly don't think it matters what brand you get. I get mine from Lowes which is a competitor of Home Depot. I would spread some lime then spread some of that cal-sul stuff you mentioned. Good luck. I hope the spots end up going away. Its gotta be frustrating.

Jun 27, 2014#18

Buckeye10

Mark, Check out some of these products. I found this page the other night and they have a distributor right by my brothers house. Its the same company as the stuff I used last week but this is their golf course line.

Gordon's Professional Products - Plant Nutrient Supplements

I googled golf course fertilizer and found this page. If the price is ok I am going to have my brother pick me up a jug and give it a try.

Jun 27, 2014#19

MowerMark

Buckeye10 said:
That picture is just a small portion where the trees used to be. I have around 2 acres of grass so fertilizing gets expensive and watering isnt really an option. About the lime, I honestly don't think it matters what brand you get. I get mine from Lowes which is a competitor of Home Depot. I would spread some lime then spread some of that cal-sul stuff you mentioned. Good luck. I hope the spots end up going away. Its gotta be frustrating.

Do you have a link (URL) to the Lime you use ? Many times manufacturers make products which produce fine particles which one is forced to inhale. Appropriate-sized solid granules work best. What does Lime accomplish ? Can too much be applied ? What are the consequences ? What improvement should be noted when using Lime ? How long will the effects persist ? When to reapply ?

Is there a wetting agent which can safely be applied to enhance water penetration ?

Jun 27, 2014#20

Buckeye10

MowerMark said:
Do you have a link (URL) to the Lime you use ? Many times manufacturers make products which produce fine particles which one is forced to inhale. Appropriate-sized solid granules work best. What does Lime accomplish ? Can too much be applied ? What are the consequences ? What improvement should be noted when using Lime ? How long will the effects persist ? When to reapply ?

Is there a wetting agent which can safely be applied to enhance water penetration ?

I know nothing about wetting agents. You mentioning it is the the 1st I ever heard of it. What exactly are they used for? Ill google lowes and see if they have a picture. The stuff I use is brown and can get a little bit dusty.

Jun 27, 2014#21

Buckeye10

Shop Pennington 30-lb Lime at Lowes.com

This isnt the exact stuff I use. I go to the outdoor section of Lowes and go to the back where they store the generic brands. The bags I buy are around 6 dollars but the link I sent you will work. Its probably a better choice and its only 11 dollars for a 30lb bag.

Jun 28, 2014#22

MowerMark

Buckeye10 said:
Shop Pennington 30-lb Lime at Lowes.com

This isnt the exact stuff I use. I go to the outdoor section of Lowes and go to the back where they store the generic brands. The bags I buy are around 6 dollars but the link I sent you will work. Its probably a better choice and its only 11 dollars for a 30lb bag.

You must mean this stuff: Shop Sta-Green 30-lbs Lime at Lowes.com

Jun 29, 2014#23

Retiredcarguy

It is good to ph test a lawn every year or so. However, in drought and reduced rainfall/watering areas, one should be careful not to upset the alkali/acidity balance.

The addition of lime can be a much overlooked and very easy improvement to lawn health.

Jun 29, 2014#24

MowerMark

Retiredcarguy said:
It is good to ph test a lawn every year or so. However, in drought and reduced rainfall/watering areas, one should be careful not to upset the alkali/acidity balance.

The addition of lime can be a much overlooked and very easy improvement to lawn health.

Overlooked ? Never heard of it until now. Will apply it this weekend. Thank you again.

Jun 29, 2014#25

Retiredcarguy

MowerMark said:
Overlooked ? Never heard of it until now. Will apply it this weekend. Thank you again.

Careful now, don't add excessive lime without ph testing. Don't go to alkali, as it is more possible in the west, because of reduced rainfall.

It takes time for added lime to be absorbed and bring about ph change.

Jun 30, 2014#26

Buckeye10

Retiredcarguy said:
The addition of lime can be a much overlooked and very easy improvement to lawn health.

And VERY cheap compared to other dry fertilizers.

Jun 30, 2014#27

H

Howdy Doody

Buckeye10 said:
And VERY cheap compared to other dry fertilizers.

I am just going to throw in my 2 cents worth. I now have 2 different types of fungus and they sound like the same type you have. I hired a local lawn care guy here in East Texas and basically he told me I was doing most everything wrong with regards to my lawn care. Here is what he told me:

1 - I was cutting my lawn too short. I should never cut more than a 1/3 of the grass and I should always cut it on the highest setting.
That being said, I was not shaving my lawn, but I had started cutting it to setting 3 instead of as high as I could go. We had some snake
issues last year so the wife said cut it shorter which I opposed, but did it anyway of course.

2 - I was over watering. I was watering 3/7 days and my station times were varied. He said that I should only water in 1" of water once
a week and always the day after I mowed. This cycle is good for temperatures up 95 degrees and if it starts getting hotter than 95 I should
go up to 2 cycles. He said that while water is necessary a to nice lawn, it can also be your worst enemy. So, in order to get the 1" on my lawn,
I did the "can test". I laid them out on my lawn and ran 3 cycles of 15 minutes per station x 5 stations. I then dumped the water from each can
into my rain gauge to check the output of my stations. So, 3 x 15 minutes gave me the desired output, but yours might be different.

3 - I asked him if I should "punch" my lawn and he said no. The reason is the soil in our area is sandy so the water will drain good and soak in fine.

4 - I asked him if maybe I was mulching too much since I also mulched lots of leaves in the fall. He said this was not an issue at all and mulching
would put back 80% of the nutrients and water from my grass and also the leaves. Of course dry leaves have little if any water, but he did say
the leaves had other beneficial minerals too.

This is of course what works best for my lawn and I hope you can find good professional to help you. He and his wife own this small company and are not
part of a big chain like True Green or Chem Lawn which did no good for me. He also has a degree in this field from Texas A&M and not just a scripted evaluation.
I have seen some marked improvement in the fungus and the overall condition of my lawn even before he has done any treatments at all. Hope this helps.

Jun 30, 2014#28

MowerMark

Buckeye10 said:
And VERY cheap compared to other dry fertilizers.

The only lime I could find locally was this: Encap | Encap Fast Acting Lime Plus AST Technology

Applied it yesterday.

Jun 30, 2014#29

MowerMark

Howdy Doody said:
I am just going to throw in my 2 cents worth. I now have 2 different types of fungus and they sound like the same type you have. I hired a local lawn care guy here in East Texas and basically he told me I was doing most everything wrong with regards to my lawn care. Here is what he told me:

1 - I was cutting my lawn too short. I should never cut more than a 1/3 of the grass and I should always cut it on the highest setting.
That being said, I was not shaving my lawn, but I had started cutting it to setting 3 instead of as high as I could go. We had some snake
issues last year so the wife said cut it shorter which I opposed, but did it anyway of course.

2 - I was over watering. I was watering 3/7 days and my station times were varied. He said that I should only water in 1" of water once
a week and always the day after I mowed. This cycle is good for temperatures up 95 degrees and if it starts getting hotter than 95 I should
go up to 2 cycles. He said that while water is necessary a to nice lawn, it can also be your worst enemy. So, in order to get the 1" on my lawn,
I did the "can test". I laid them out on my lawn and ran 3 cycles of 15 minutes per station x 5 stations. I then dumped the water from each can
into my rain gauge to check the output of my stations. So, 3 x 15 minutes gave me the desired output, but yours might be different.

3 - I asked him if I should "punch" my lawn and he said no. The reason is the soil in our area is sandy so the water will drain good and soak in fine.

4 - I asked him if maybe I was mulching too much since I also mulched lots of leaves in the fall. He said this was not an issue at all and mulching
would put back 80% of the nutrients and water from my grass and also the leaves. Of course dry leaves have little if any water, but he did say
the leaves had other beneficial minerals too.

This is of course what works best for my lawn and I hope you can find good professional to help you. He and his wife own this small company and are not
part of a big chain like True Green or Chem Lawn which did no good for me. He also has a degree in this field from Texas A&M and not just a scripted evaluation.
I have seen some marked improvement in the fungus and the overall condition of my lawn even before he has done any treatments at all. Hope this helps.

This was much more than 2 cents more like $5,000. Thank you. In the areas in which the lawn was not thriving, the drill had a hard time penetrating. It wasn't clear that the professional aerating caused a fungus, but several professionals declared it fungus and it did get better in association with using Fungus Fighter.

Never sure how much to water, and never sure what % grass to cut. Has this really been properly studied ?

Jun 30, 2014#30

MowerMark

pH calculator: Find My Soil pH (an online app)

Jun 30, 2014#31

MowerMark

YouTube series from Sta Green

Fertilizer Basics - Sta-Green Lawn Care Program - YouTube

Jul 2, 2014#32

Retiredcarguy

Try this, as it works very well for me:

Milorganite | Home

Jul 2, 2014#33

MowerMark

Retiredcarguy said:
Try this, as it works very well for me:

Milorganite | Home

Have never seen that before. Found it on the Home Depot website: Search Results for*milorganite fertilizer*at The Home Depot

BUT it is not in the store now.

Jul 2, 2014#34

RCCola45

MowerMark said:
Have never seen that before. Found it on the Home Depot website: Search Results for*milorganite fertilizer*at The Home Depot

BUT it is not in the store now.

I had a pallet of that couple years ago ... it worked real good. You can't put to much on ... not suppose to burn. Its slow acting so lasted longer than other fertilizers I have used. Really greened up my yard. I did get some weird looks from people walking around the corner lot here ... it will smell a little bit for 3-4 days ... kinda like walking next to a water treatment plant ... maybe because its processed waste from water treatment plant. It was cheaper per bag then other things I used but it takes like 3-4 times as much compared to a normal fertilizer. Timm

Jul 3, 2014#35

Buckeye10

RCCola45 said:
I had a pallet of that couple years ago ... it worked real good. You can't put to much on ... not suppose to burn. Its slow acting so lasted longer than other fertilizers I have used. Really greened up my yard. I did get some weird looks from people walking around the corner lot here ... it will smell a little bit for 3-4 days ... kinda like walking next to a water treatment plant ... maybe because its processed waste from water treatment plant. It was cheaper per bag then other things I used but it takes like 3-4 times as much compared to a normal fertilizer. Timm

Thanks for the info. I never noticed any smell. Also you are making me wonder if I put it on to light. I am going to try a heavier dose next time just to see how it works even though I did get results from my light dose.

Jul 3, 2014#36

MowerMark

RCCola45 said:
I had a pallet of that couple years ago ... it worked real good. You can't put to much on ... not suppose to burn. Its slow acting so lasted longer than other fertilizers I have used. Really greened up my yard. I did get some weird looks from people walking around the corner lot here ... it will smell a little bit for 3-4 days ... kinda like walking next to a water treatment plant ... maybe because its processed waste from water treatment plant. It was cheaper per bag then other things I used but it takes like 3-4 times as much compared to a normal fertilizer. Timm

Will try it next week. Ironite has made the lawn the most green.

Jul 8, 2014#37

MowerMark

I just found a small amount of a "wetting agent" I used 10 years ago, Aqueduct : Aqueduct :: Chemicals :: Products | Advanced Turf Solutions, Inc.

Seems no one here is familiar with it.

Jul 8, 2014#38

MowerMark

Buckeye10 said:
I know nothing about wetting agents. You mentioning it is the the 1st I ever heard of it. What exactly are they used for? Ill google lowes and see if they have a picture. The stuff I use is brown and can get a little bit dusty.

HERE: Aqueduct :: Chemicals :: Products | Advanced Turf Solutions, Inc.

Jul 11, 2014#39

Retiredcarguy

Retiredcarguy said:
Try this, as it works very well for me:

Milorganite | Home

Lime once a year, as ph tested, and Milorganite (see the above link), a few times a year works great.
Even during dry summers.

Jul 14, 2014#40

H

Howdy Doody

Buckeye10 said:
Thanks for the info. I never noticed any smell. Also you are making me wonder if I put it on to light. I am going to try a heavier dose next time just to see how it works even though I did get results from my light dose.

Read the origin on the package of Milagronite. It is basically processed human waste so it will have some smell like a waste plant.

Jul 14, 2014#41

Retiredcarguy

Howdy Doody said:
Read the origin on the package of Milagronite. It is basically processed human waste so it will have some smell like a waste plant.

That it is!

Together with annual ph testing and lime only as needed, Milorganite has worked great for me for over 20 years. It also keeps the deer, the four legged kind, away from the foundation plantings, as we live in a rural area. The odor is insignificant and dissipates in a few days.

I highly recommend it.

Jul 14, 2014#42

MowerMark

Howdy Doody said:
Read the origin on the package of Milagronite. It is basically processed human waste so it will have some smell like a waste plant.

I just purchased two bags and left them in the car overnight. My car now smells like a waste plant.

Jul 14, 2014#43

L

lessma

MowerMark said:
Wow! Pleased to report that after multiple drill holes then watering (as usual), the both lawns are 75% better. Awesome.

How far apart did you drill the holes and what type of drill did you use?

Thanks

Jul 14, 2014#44

MowerMark

lessma said:
How far apart did you drill the holes and what type of drill did you use?

Thanks

I drilled about every 4 inches spaced and about two to six inches down in only the areas in which the grass was abnormal (sparse, yellowish, stunted growth, etc.). The soil was compacted/dense in each and every abnormal area. The drill bit was two feet long and there were two types of drills. One had the usual end used for wood, and the other had two rectangles at the tip. The diameter was about 5/8". I like doing the drilling because:

1. The professional aerator man seemed to cause a fungus infection

2. No lawn plugs everywhere

3. It gave an appreciation for how compact soil changes lawn health.

4. Cost less

Then Lime and Milorganiteｮ was applied. In the few areas in which the lawn had died and was depressed/sunken, the area was cut out, soil removed, and was replaced with MiracleGroｮ Lawn Soil mixed with Perlite. It'll take about a month for the rhizomes of the Bluegrass to fill in the bare spots. Cutting out the dead areas immediately made the lawn look better because there was no yellow areas.

Jul 14, 2014#45

A

Andy W

You could also put some gypsum down and that will soften the soil.

Jul 14, 2014#46

MowerMark

Andy W said:
You could also put some gypsum down and that will soften the soil.

Please clarify. You mean add gypsum to the entire lawn, or just to the small areas of new MiracleGro lawn soil with Perlite ?

Jul 14, 2014#47

Retiredcarguy

Using gypsum? Be careful. Read what is in the below link:

Gypsum to soften hard soil? Probably not

Jul 14, 2014#48

MowerMark

Retiredcarguy said:
Using gypsum? Be careful. Read what is in the below link:

Gypsum to soften hard soil? Probably not

"Aerifying with large half-inch hollow tines and punching about 25 holes/square foot will produce good results." 25 half inch holes per square foot is quite a few holes.

Jul 14, 2014#49

RCCola45

Howdy Doody said:
Read the origin on the package of Milagronite. It is basically processed human waste so it will have some smell like a waste plant.

Them people in and around Milwaukee are full of it!!!

Jul 14, 2014#50

Retiredcarguy

RCCola45 said:
Them people in and around Milwaukee are full of it!!!

Thanks and it is great for a small lawn. My wife sprinkles it on the house foundation plantings to keep the deer away.

Jul 15, 2014#51

A

Andy W

I normally put gypsum down on the entire lawn once a year to soften the ground this lets the roots grow easier and the water soaks into the ground better.

Jul 15, 2014#52

MowerMark

Andy W said:
I normally put gypsum down on the entire lawn once a year to soften the ground this lets the roots grow easier and the water soaks into the ground better.

But does it actually work that way?

Jul 16, 2014#53

A

Andy W

It works for me.

Jul 16, 2014#54

MowerMark

Andy W said:
It works for me.

I have many bags of gypsum. How to apply, how much to use and how often ?

Aug 17, 2014#55

Retiredcarguy

It has been a while. How is your lawn?

Aug 17, 2014#56

LazerZLandscaping

Yeah, how is your lawn?

Aug 17, 2014#57

MowerMark

LazerZLandscaping said:
Yeah, how is your lawn?

The lawn is the best it has been in over ten years. I've also allowed the blades to be longer, perhaps 2". Thanks for asking. The remaining areas which are less than perfect are because the soil is dense in this exact areas. But these areas comprise maybe 5% of surface area. Will keep drilling once a month.

How often to apply gypsum ?

Aug 18, 2014#58

Retiredcarguy

MowerMark said:
The lawn is the best it has been in over ten years. I've also allowed the blades to be longer, perhaps 2". Thanks for asking. The remaining areas which are less than perfect are because the soil is dense in this exact areas. But these areas comprise maybe 5% of surface area. Will keep drilling once a month.

How often to apply gypsum ?

Nice! So turn over those dead patches and replant. Early fall is the perfect time to do it.

Aug 18, 2014#59

MowerMark

Retiredcarguy said:
Nice! So turn over those dead patches and replant. Early fall is the perfect time to do it.

Did a few places six months ago. Replanted the remaining few areas wouldn't help unless the soil were to be modified. Another reason to be opposed to replanting is that often the level is too high or too low. When mowing, the inequality is noteworthy.

Aug 18, 2014#60

M

motoman

My front yard of 1/3 acre grass went downhill over the last several years. We get 70 inches here and only July/August are hot. This is the 10th year and the front yard died out and was overtaken by weeds. The back yard is shaded and treated the same and is fair to good. So I suspect heat and lack of water in Jul-Aug for the front...But wait, never using lime I went to a testing service and found the pH at 4.7 which is too acidic. The service calculated that to bring the lawn up to recommended level of 5.9 will require over 1 ton of lime to be administered over 2 years. I did not test the back 1 acre, but "assume" the same. The testing also revealed extremely high potassium ( I had been dutifully putting a dry fertilizere on with 12%). The lab was not concerned about the potassium. So I figure I need 1 ton in back also.

You can buy litmus paper kits to test for pH, but they are not accurate. Next, you can spend $100+ on meters which must be calibrated. So I went to the lab ($50). Universities here no longer do free testing. The benefit of proper pH is that it frees nutrients up so grass can consume them. I have rototilled the 1/3acre (bronco tiller), and found it very hard compact also, so water alone is not the mechanism. Acidic soil here is due to heavy rain leaching out magnesium and calcium. BTW surfur promotes more acidic soil. I don't think you should guess, but am glad you have had success. :2cents:

Aug 29, 2014#61

Retiredcarguy

MowerMark said:
Did a few places six months ago. Replanted the remaining few areas wouldn't help unless the soil were to be modified. Another reason to be opposed to replanting is that often the level is too high or too low. When mowing, the inequality is noteworthy.

How about digging out those "dead spots" and removing the surface soil and replacing with it a mixture of loam, peat and topsoil. Level it out and plant some seed for fall growing.

Or... use a tiller and turn in the loam and peat at all the dreaded "dead spots." Make it all a pleasant memory!

Aug 29, 2014#62

MowerMark

Retiredcarguy said:
How about digging out those "dead spots" and removing the surface soil and replacing with it a mixture of loam, peat and topsoil. Level it out and plant some seed for fall growing.

Or... use a tiller and turn in the loam and peat at all the dreaded "dead spots." Make it all a pleasant memory!

Yes. What I do is in every small area in which the blades look thinner and yellowish, the soil is hard. I dig it up and replace it with perlite and MiracleGro Lawn Soil. Then each area gets watered and compressed to level. Then I wait for the surrounding grass to grow in. If impatient, sod gets patched in.

Aug 30, 2014#63

LazerZLandscaping

MowerMark said:
Yes. What I do is in every small area in which the blades look thinner and yellowish, the soil is hard. I dig it up and replace it with perlite and MiracleGro Lawn Soil. Then each area gets watered and compressed to level. Then I wait for the surrounding grass to grow in. If impatient, sod gets patched in.

Does the MiracleGro Lawn Soil work good for patching? I bought Scotts Lawn Soil, and it basically was a bag of mulch. I just use a topsoil/peat mix for patching and overseed it.

Aug 30, 2014#64

MowerMark

LazerZLandscaping said:
Does the MiracleGro Lawn Soil work good for patching? I bought Scotts Lawn Soil, and it basically was a bag of mulch. I just use a topsoil/peat mix for patching and overseed it.

Don't know as I have always used MGLS.

Sep 1, 2014#65

Retiredcarguy

The three best things that come in a bag (for a lawn):

1. Peat moss - turn in or dig it in, if you don't have compost
2. Milorganite - will never burn, to make for one healthy lawn
3. Lime - use only when needed, but it makes a world of difference

Sep 1, 2014#66

MowerMark

Retiredcarguy said:
The three best things that come in a bag (for a lawn):

1. Peat moss - turn in or dig it in, if you don't have compost
2. Milorganite - will never burn, to make for one healthy lawn
3. Lime - use only when needed, but it makes a world of difference

Good list.

1. What happened to gypsum ?

2. How do you know when lime is needed and how much to use ?

SAMPLE READING: How To Use Lime and Gypsum Fertilizers? at The Home Depot

Sep 2, 2014#67

Retiredcarguy

MowerMark said:
Good list.

1. What happened to gypsum ?

2. How do you know when lime is needed and how much to use ?

SAMPLE READING: How To Use Lime and Gypsum Fertilizers?*at The Home Depot

Gypsum, I admit to not have any experience with it, since it is not used here in the Northeast. More for dense clay soils.

Ph test for any lime need is best by taking soil samples to your local cooperative extension or agriculture university. Call them first! Meters and test kits give an idea, though are less accurate. Yet, I do also use one. I tend to lime my front property, about every 2-3 years. Lime takes a while to react with the soil, but when it does - what a difference!!

Jun 29, 2016#68

B

Brownieboy

Tear is down and the build it back up. It had a good life and now it's time to rebuild. You should try a different type of grass this time. Maybe a blue grass being that i'm from kentucky it's what I would recommend.

Jun 29, 2016#69

MowerMark

Buckeye10 said:
That is good news. Did you ever try putting a heavy dose of lime on the yard?

Jun 29, 2016#70

MowerMark

Buckeye10 said:
That is good news. Did you ever try putting a heavy dose of lime on the yard?

I did two years ago, and posted about it here.

I put out cups in strategic locations a few weeks ago, and each cup had about 0.5" of water. Where the blades were broader and sparser, that's where the soil is compacted.

Will drill more and reapply Aquaduct® and Revive®.

Should the pH be checked before lime is applied? Does one apply lime regularly no matter what? Does lime really work?

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What do to about my 13 year old lawn ? Compacted soil ? Fungus ? Old age ?

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