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Vibrations on my ZT34
#1
S
slipado4993
S
slipado4993
Hi folks, new guy on the block. I really enjoy forums for just about anything I own. Okay to the point, I just purchased a 2018 Gravley ZT34, with a 6000 series Kohler motor. It was somewhat abused, ( oil like mud, belts and blades never changed or sharpened or at least 6 years) after all that abuse the motor is still strong after tune up oil changed bad fuel removed. After cleanup and new blades and belts and a new mulching kit, I am getting a strong vibration from the mower deck, I check pullies and grease fittings, but can't tell where the vibration is coming from, I know there is more troubleshooting I can do but was just wondering if I can get some tips on what to look for from the forum.
#2
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
The following things are what you need to check, when troubleshooting a vibration.
1. Cracked or worn belt will definitely cause a vibration.
2. Worn or rusted/pitted pulleys are another cause.
3. Tensioner arm not moving freely or bent another cause.
4. Blades which are out of balance.
5. Blades mounted off center.
6. Bad spindle bearings.
7. Debris buildup on deck.
8. Spindle shaft bent, rare but I’ve seen it.
9. Sprung deck.
You may have checked some of these, but when I run into this problem I double check.
1. Cracked or worn belt will definitely cause a vibration.
2. Worn or rusted/pitted pulleys are another cause.
3. Tensioner arm not moving freely or bent another cause.
4. Blades which are out of balance.
5. Blades mounted off center.
6. Bad spindle bearings.
7. Debris buildup on deck.
8. Spindle shaft bent, rare but I’ve seen it.
9. Sprung deck.
You may have checked some of these, but when I run into this problem I double check.
#3
H
hlw49
H
hlw49
Looks like Rivets pretty much covered it might look for something wedged in the pulleys, bent pulleys.
#4
S
slipado4993
S
slipado4993
Thanks so much for getting back. I am in the process of checking some of the above-mentioned points, some I have already eliminated. Have anyone installed the mulch kit that is offer thru the Gravley parts catalog ? I have and I also installed one on a Dixson mower and got the same vibrations.The following things are what you need to check, when troubleshooting a vibration.
1. Cracked or worn belt will definitely cause a vibration.
2. Worn or rusted/pitted pulleys are another cause.
3. Tensioner arm not moving freely or bent another cause.
4. Blades which are out of balance.
5. Blades mounted off center.
6. Bad spindle bearings.
7. Debris buildup on deck.
8. Spindle shaft bent, rare but I’ve seen it.
9. Sprung deck.
You may have checked some of these, but when I run into this problem I double check.
#5
B
bullet bob
B
bullet bob
I've installed the mulch kit on my ZT 60 but it doesn't contribute anything to a vibration.
#7
S
Skippydiesel
S
Skippydiesel
Mulch kits = marketing gimmick that uses more hp/fuel to do the same job as the standard/blade deck. 
#8
B
bullet bob
B
bullet bob
Tell my leaves that, as they drift out from the deck, darn near a powder.Mulch kits = marketing gimmick that uses more hp/fuel to do the same job as the standard/blade deck.
#9
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
Mulch kits are great for leaves a few weeks out of the year. Not good for grass the other 30 weeks.Tell my leaves that, as they drift out from the deck, darn near a powder.
#10
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
When you have a mulch kit that is properly designed and you know how to use it properly, they do a great job. Yes, you have to learn how to use it!! I’ve have the mulch kit on my 1996 Toro 16-38XL and have neighbors who actually ask to use it because of the way the lawn looks when finished. Only time I don’t like the cut is when I can’t cut dry or grass is too long.
#11
StarTech
But even normal decks on some models have discharge problem in heavy grass cutting [tall grass]. The worst I have seen have been on Gravely mowers. I have had shut the decks move to a cut area, raise the deck, cut off the deck, let the clippings drop, and then with the deck still raised re-engage it. It is a rinse and repeat as long you cutting heavy grass. Yet I can take a Super Z and knee high grass with minimum problems.
One key thing with mulching is to travel slower giving the decks time to clear the clippings and always cut dry grass.
StarTech
Not all have the time to keep a manicured lawn. With that most mulch setups are terrible at cutting grass without clogging. The only dedicated mulch deck that been though my shop has been the JD Freedom deck.When you have a mulch kit that is properly designed and you know how to use it properly, they do a great job. Yes, you have to learn how to use it!! I’ve have the mulch kit on my 1996 Toro 16-38XL and have neighbors who actually ask to use it because of the way the lawn looks when finished. Only time I don’t like the cut is when I can’t cut dry or grass is too long.
But even normal decks on some models have discharge problem in heavy grass cutting [tall grass]. The worst I have seen have been on Gravely mowers. I have had shut the decks move to a cut area, raise the deck, cut off the deck, let the clippings drop, and then with the deck still raised re-engage it. It is a rinse and repeat as long you cutting heavy grass. Yet I can take a Super Z and knee high grass with minimum problems.
One key thing with mulching is to travel slower giving the decks time to clear the clippings and always cut dry grass.
#12
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
I definitely don’t have a manicure lawn, but I do have a unit which does a great job of making it look good with minimal effort.
#13
StarTech
StarTech
I am always happy to hear someone got their setup working right.I definitely don’t have a manicure lawn, but I do have a unit which does a great job of making it look good with minimal effort.
#14
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
These old Toros had decks designed for mulching or side discharge. There is a reason that Toro had the best walk behind mowers and tractors until 2005. They stopped producing their own tractors then and since 2021 the quality of their walk behind has also gone down hill.
#16
M
MParr
M
MParr
Older Gravely mowers are picky about blade choices and deck setup. Some of the older deck designs have smaller discharge openings. Gravely mower decks perform best when they are completely level all around or 1/8" higher in the rear. Aftermarket notched high lift blades work best on Gravely mowers.Not all have the time to keep a manicured lawn. With that most mulch setups are terrible at cutting grass without clogging. The only dedicated mulch deck that been though my shop has been the JD Freedom deck.
But even normal decks on some models have discharge problem in heavy grass cutting [tall grass]. The worst I have seen have been on Gravely mowers. I have had shut the decks move to a cut area, raise the deck, cut off the deck, let the clippings drop, and then with the deck still raised re-engage it. It is a rinse and repeat as long you cutting heavy grass. Yet I can take a Super Z and knee high grass with minimum problems.
One key thing with mulching is to travel slower giving the decks time to clear the clippings and always cut dry grass.
#17
B
bullet bob
B
bullet bob
I'm running G5 gator blades with the slightly heeled deck. HD ZT 60. Didn't use the mulching blades that came with the mulch kit after 2 seasons. Lousy summer cut. Mow slow, mow dry and don't cut too much at a time.......
#19
StarTech
StarTech
One everyone needs realize new blades are half way balance. Nearly one I buy are out of balance. I can do nothing about the mounting being off center on the blade width but can bring the blades into balance otherwise. My balancer is sensitive enough that the weight a paper clip can be detected. If the balance is badly off they get tossed in the recycle bin.
And there are times the spindles themselves are the source of problem. Bent shafts, bad bearings, and bent pulleys; not mentioning a chunk of the deck belt might be missing.
Otherwords if the problem didn't exist before the change then it is one or more of the new components. Otherwise any deck related component can be the cause.
And there are times the spindles themselves are the source of problem. Bent shafts, bad bearings, and bent pulleys; not mentioning a chunk of the deck belt might be missing.
Otherwords if the problem didn't exist before the change then it is one or more of the new components. Otherwise any deck related component can be the cause.
#20
G
Gord Baker
G
Gord Baker
That appears to be the root of your problem. Check Belt tightness and if there is still a problem, remove the mulch kit whatever that consists of.Thanks so much for getting back. I am in the process of checking some of the above-mentioned points, some I have already eliminated. Have anyone installed the mulch kit that is offer thru the Gravley parts catalog ? I have and I also installed one on a Dixson mower and got the same vibrations.
#21
B
blue262
B
blue262
My exact mower did the same thing. The motor mounting bolts were not tight and the motor could move around.Hi folks, new guy on the block. I really enjoy forums for just about anything I own. Okay to the point, I just purchased a 2018 Gravley ZT34, with a 6000 series Kohler motor. It was somewhat abused, ( oil like mud, belts and blades never changed or sharpened or at least 6 years) after all that abuse the motor is still strong after tune up oil changed bad fuel removed. After cleanup and new blades and belts and a new mulching kit, I am getting a strong vibration from the mower deck, I check pullies and grease fittings, but can't tell where the vibration is coming from, I know there is more troubleshooting I can do but was just wondering if I can get some tips on what to look for from the forum.
#22
P
Peva
Having two blades on the spindles allows faster travel speed without sacrificing cut and mulching quality.
I am a DIYer, so I don't have the depth of knowledge of you pros, but I know that all but the base model EGo mowers come with double ("cross cut") blades (I don't know if double blade kits can be retrofitted to the lower models). I do know that the Ryobi riders (tractor and zero-turn models) come without the double blades, but they do offer kits for retro'ing them all at reasonable prices - $40 for full set for both spindles on my 30" ZT - not sure about the Ryobi walk-behinds, but I'm guessing they have kits for those too).
ANYWAY - I highly recommend double blades for maintaining cut and mulching quality at higher travel speed (or if grass gets a little taller).
Also, the Ryobis have 3 blade speeds, so I always keep it in the highest speed, which is a key to best cut and mulching quality - with little effect on battery drain rate because additional spindle power draw is mostly offset by reducing cutting time of same area (and other efficiencies of higher blade speed).
P
Peva
On the two comments about mowing slower when mulching, here's a tip:Not all have the time to keep a manicured lawn. With that most mulch setups are terrible at cutting grass without clogging. The only dedicated mulch deck that been though my shop has been the JD Freedom deck.
But even normal decks on some models have discharge problem in heavy grass cutting [tall grass]. The worst I have seen have been on Gravely mowers. I have had shut the decks move to a cut area, raise the deck, cut off the deck, let the clippings drop, and then with the deck still raised re-engage it. It is a rinse and repeat as long you cutting heavy grass. Yet I can take a Super Z and knee high grass with minimum problems.
One key thing with mulching is to travel slower giving the decks time
Yes I agree you do have to learn how to use it. you need to mow slower.
to clear the clippings and always cut dry grass.
Having two blades on the spindles allows faster travel speed without sacrificing cut and mulching quality.
I am a DIYer, so I don't have the depth of knowledge of you pros, but I know that all but the base model EGo mowers come with double ("cross cut") blades (I don't know if double blade kits can be retrofitted to the lower models). I do know that the Ryobi riders (tractor and zero-turn models) come without the double blades, but they do offer kits for retro'ing them all at reasonable prices - $40 for full set for both spindles on my 30" ZT - not sure about the Ryobi walk-behinds, but I'm guessing they have kits for those too).
ANYWAY - I highly recommend double blades for maintaining cut and mulching quality at higher travel speed (or if grass gets a little taller).
Also, the Ryobis have 3 blade speeds, so I always keep it in the highest speed, which is a key to best cut and mulching quality - with little effect on battery drain rate because additional spindle power draw is mostly offset by reducing cutting time of same area (and other efficiencies of higher blade speed).
#23
Bruce Mowbray
Bruce Mowbray
I had the same issue, It turned out to be the new belt. After sitting for who knows how long, all curled up in its carboard sleeve with six tight bends, it was those bends and the fact that it hasn't been "settled in" on my mower, it caused a notable vibration. It took about 20 hours of mowing for it to finally go away. I also get the same (but not quite as noticeable) when I take the mower out of winter storage and start mowing in the spring.
#24
C
churchill
C
churchill
I have the Gravely HD ZT48 with the mulch kit and have been using it for 6 years now. Like has been said, the cut quality is poor if the grass is too long (> 2x cut height) and/or wet. It will leave mohawk strips between the blade sections. I have to clean the underside of the mower deck at least 3 times a season for optimum mulching results. I love how it grinds up he fall leaves though. Yes, you have to mow slower and more often than standard blade mowers, but my mowing time is therapeutic for me. Keep your blades sharp (I do mine every spring) and balanced too. Mulching really helps the grass in the long run because you're replenishing organic matter that helps add nitrogen back to your root zone. I watch neighbors bag their clippings and haul them away or have the trash company take them. Seems they spend as much time dealing with the clippings as they do mowing. Then they buy a lot of nitrogen to put on to make it look nice.
#25
D
Davenj4f
D
Davenj4f
Bet you a lot of money the blades are not balanced. New blades are never balanced by the makers. A friend of mine had the same issue with a brand new mower. I balanced the blades for him, and then it was smooth as silk.Hi folks, new guy on the block. I really enjoy forums for just about anything I own. Okay to the point, I just purchased a 2018 Gravley ZT34, with a 6000 series Kohler motor. It was somewhat abused, ( oil like mud, belts and blades never changed or sharpened or at least 6 years) after all that abuse the motor is still strong after tune up oil changed bad fuel removed. After cleanup and new blades and belts and a new mulching kit, I am getting a strong vibration from the mower deck, I check pullies and grease fittings, but can't tell where the vibration is coming from, I know there is more troubleshooting I can do but was just wondering if I can get some tips on what to look for from the forum.
#26
P
pat_from_indy
Most likely causes of vibrations would be pulley / bearing issues or bent blades / deck. Observe what exactly is vibrating as best you can. Is it the whole deck or just under the deck? Is it while mowing or even when the blades are not engaged?
P
pat_from_indy
No reason why a mulch kit would cause a vibration unless incorrectly installed or the mower has some issue.Thanks so much for getting back. I am in the process of checking some of the above-mentioned points, some I have already eliminated. Have anyone installed the mulch kit that is offer thru the Gravley parts catalog ? I have and I also installed one on a Dixson mower and got the same vibrations.
Most likely causes of vibrations would be pulley / bearing issues or bent blades / deck. Observe what exactly is vibrating as best you can. Is it the whole deck or just under the deck? Is it while mowing or even when the blades are not engaged?
#27
W
will55912
W
will55912
Great point on making sure the grass is dry. I have some neighbors that mow early morning (Summer) when there is a heavy dew on the grass, or even during a very light shower. Then they wonder why the grass clumps up and have patches of dead grass. Duh!!When you have a mulch kit that is properly designed and you know how to use it properly, they do a great job. Yes, you have to learn how to use it!! I’ve have the mulch kit on my 1996 Toro 16-38XL and have neighbors who actually ask to use it because of the way the lawn looks when finished. Only time I don’t like the cut is when I can’t cut dry or grass is too long.
#28
G
guitarman4805
G
guitarman4805
No reason why a mulch kit would cause a vibration unless incorrectly installed or the mower has some issue.
Most likely causes of vibrations would be pulley / bearing issues or bent blades / deck. Observe what exactly is vibrating as best you can. Is it the whole deck or just under the deck? Is it while mowing or even when the blades are not engaged?
These responses are right on; my experience with a Gravely MiniZoom 34 had a abnormal vibration a couple of times during my ownership. The motor bolts worked loose, making balance a problem and the a two blade deck demands balanced replacements and if you subbed blades, pull both blades and make sure they are balanced, centered and not bent even the slighest. You can release the tensioner and turn both blades manually and see any mis alignment and blade tips should be same height when they come around. The other incident I had was I hit a surface root and somehow bent one of the hangar pins enough to throw the balance out. I also had an acorn jump up and lodge firmly in the v pulley; and causing a real teaser to locate. It was only noticeable with an open inspection of all the belts and drives. hope this helps.My exact mower did the same thing. The motor mounting bolts were not tight and the motor could move around.
#29
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
Sharpening your blades every Spring, is not keeping them sharp. I would recommend every other month to sharpen blades.I have the Gravely HD ZT48 with the mulch kit and have been using it for 6 years now. Like has been said, the cut quality is poor if the grass is too long (> 2x cut height) and/or wet. It will leave mohawk strips between the blade sections. I have to clean the underside of the mower deck at least 3 times a season for optimum mulching results. I love how it grinds up he fall leaves though. Yes, you have to mow slower and more often than standard blade mowers, but my mowing time is therapeutic for me. Keep your blades sharp (I do mine every spring) and balanced too. Mulching really helps the grass in the long run because you're replenishing organic matter that helps add nitrogen back to your root zone. I watch neighbors bag their clippings and haul them away or have the trash company take them. Seems they spend as much time dealing with the clippings as they do mowing. Then they buy a lot of nitrogen to put on to make it look nice.
#30
P
Peva
"my mowing time is therapeutic for me"
"Mulching really helps the grass in the long run because you're replenishing organic matter that helps add nitrogen back to your root zone. I watch neighbors bag their clippings and haul them away or have the trash company take them. Seems they spend as much time dealing with the clippings as they do mowing. Then they buy a lot of nitrogen to put on to make it look nice."
Two thumbs up!!
P
Peva
I have the Gravely HD ZT48 with the mulch kit and have been using it for 6 years now. Like has been said, the cut quality is poor if the grass is too long (> 2x cut height) and/or wet. It will leave mohawk strips between the blade sections. I have to clean the underside of the mower deck at least 3 times a season for optimum mulching results. I love how it grinds up he fall leaves though. Yes, you have to mow slower and more often than standard blade mowers, but my mowing time is therapeutic for me. Keep your blades sharp (I do mine every spring) and balanced too. Mulching really helps the grass in the long run because you're replenishing organic matter that helps add nitrogen back to your root zone. I watch neighbors bag their clippings and haul them away or have the trash company take them. Seems they spend as much time dealing with the clippings as they do mowing. Then they buy a lot of nitrogen to put on to make it look nice.
"my mowing time is therapeutic for me"
"Mulching really helps the grass in the long run because you're replenishing organic matter that helps add nitrogen back to your root zone. I watch neighbors bag their clippings and haul them away or have the trash company take them. Seems they spend as much time dealing with the clippings as they do mowing. Then they buy a lot of nitrogen to put on to make it look nice."
Two thumbs up!!
#31
G
Gord Baker
G
Gord Baker
Mulching creates a dense mat that harbours mold, disease and varmints. I do re mow most of my clippings as they are discharged onto unmown areas. When finished, a few passes with the sweeper and Done. I haul mine to the forest nearby."my mowing time is therapeutic for me"
"Mulching really helps the grass in the long run because you're replenishing organic matter that helps add nitrogen back to your root zone. I watch neighbors bag their clippings and haul them away or have the trash company take them. Seems they spend as much time dealing with the clippings as they do mowing. Then they buy a lot of nitrogen to put on to make it look nice."
Two thumbs up!!
#32
P
Peva
I think your comment is not universally true and would indicate some combination of the mulching being very course (perhaps due to tall or dense grass, mower travel speed being too high compared to blade speed, or incorrect blade being used, or something else in the design or condition of the mower being marginal), uneven spreading of the clippings (some areas of heavy deposit of clippings covering and overwhelming the blades of grass it lands on), and/or the rate of decomposition of the clippings (determined by such things as unmulched quantity and particle length, pH, nitrogen content, and perhaps other factors that I'm not aware of).
As I mentioned earlier, I highly favor the dual blades per spindle (crosscut) setups and higher blade speed setting on my mower because that gives a finer degree (smaller particle size) of mulching, favoring decomposition at a higher rate. That lessens the likelihood of thatch buildup that you describe.
FWIW, I have read that fescues are generally less prone to thatch buildup than other grasses (some "experts" say that fescues usually do not need dethatching), which means that they are less prone to some of the matting and disease problems you described.
I have had mowers in the past that did not mulch well, and experienced some of the problems you described - had to go back over some areas a second time - not to cut the grass again, but to redistribute the clippings that were previously dropped in clumps in small areas (often happened when the grass was seasonally growing thicker due to cooler weather, more rain, etc., or I had allowed the grass to get a little too tall before mowing, which overwhelmed the deck in trying to keep up with how fast it was pulling in more volume to be chopped up). I never have the problem anymore with the mower I now have - again, because it does a much better job of mulching even if thick or tall. I generally can't even find the clippings after mowing. Before, I didn't have to look for them - they were staring me in the face in little piles.
EDIT:
I know I'm being long-winded already, but here's something else to consider:
I could be wrong, but I get the impression that you are using side discharge.
When I got my current lawnmower (2 years ago), I had the option of installing the side discharge chute or letting the spring-loaded block-off piece swing down over the side discharge opening.
With side discharge, a lot of unchopped or incompletely chopped clippings get blown out over the yard -and that's exactly what I experienced before, especially in an overload (high volume of grass - thick and/or tall) situation.
With the side discharge blocked off as designed for complete mulching, the clippings are trapped floating between the blade plane and deck ceiling (rather than being able to escape unchopped out the side chute) and they get chopped up pretty fine before they drop below the blades onto the newly cut grass. The mower has the power snd the blade speed to handle the higher throughput fully mulched.
P
Peva
The two statements in quotes in my post were originally made by churchill in his post #24. I was agreeing with what I quoted.Mulching creates a dense mat that harbours mold, disease and varmints. I do re mow most of my clippings as they are discharged onto unmown areas. When finished, a few passes with the sweeper and Done. I haul mine to the forest nearby.
I think your comment is not universally true and would indicate some combination of the mulching being very course (perhaps due to tall or dense grass, mower travel speed being too high compared to blade speed, or incorrect blade being used, or something else in the design or condition of the mower being marginal), uneven spreading of the clippings (some areas of heavy deposit of clippings covering and overwhelming the blades of grass it lands on), and/or the rate of decomposition of the clippings (determined by such things as unmulched quantity and particle length, pH, nitrogen content, and perhaps other factors that I'm not aware of).
As I mentioned earlier, I highly favor the dual blades per spindle (crosscut) setups and higher blade speed setting on my mower because that gives a finer degree (smaller particle size) of mulching, favoring decomposition at a higher rate. That lessens the likelihood of thatch buildup that you describe.
FWIW, I have read that fescues are generally less prone to thatch buildup than other grasses (some "experts" say that fescues usually do not need dethatching), which means that they are less prone to some of the matting and disease problems you described.
I have had mowers in the past that did not mulch well, and experienced some of the problems you described - had to go back over some areas a second time - not to cut the grass again, but to redistribute the clippings that were previously dropped in clumps in small areas (often happened when the grass was seasonally growing thicker due to cooler weather, more rain, etc., or I had allowed the grass to get a little too tall before mowing, which overwhelmed the deck in trying to keep up with how fast it was pulling in more volume to be chopped up). I never have the problem anymore with the mower I now have - again, because it does a much better job of mulching even if thick or tall. I generally can't even find the clippings after mowing. Before, I didn't have to look for them - they were staring me in the face in little piles.
EDIT:
I know I'm being long-winded already, but here's something else to consider:
I could be wrong, but I get the impression that you are using side discharge.
When I got my current lawnmower (2 years ago), I had the option of installing the side discharge chute or letting the spring-loaded block-off piece swing down over the side discharge opening.
With side discharge, a lot of unchopped or incompletely chopped clippings get blown out over the yard -and that's exactly what I experienced before, especially in an overload (high volume of grass - thick and/or tall) situation.
With the side discharge blocked off as designed for complete mulching, the clippings are trapped floating between the blade plane and deck ceiling (rather than being able to escape unchopped out the side chute) and they get chopped up pretty fine before they drop below the blades onto the newly cut grass. The mower has the power snd the blade speed to handle the higher throughput fully mulched.
#33
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
Whether you are mowing with a 21” push mower, or a 61” zero turn, side discharge is always better than mulching, period. Get the clipping out as far as possible out of the exit chute. It will throw grass clippings 6’ to 8’ feet on a zero turn mower with the exit chute raised. This is the whole idea! Get the grass out and let it disperse evenly and it will look great, be better on the lawn, and easier on the mower.The two statements in quotes in my post were originally made by churchill in his post #24. I was agreeing with what I quoted.
I think your comment is not universally true and would indicate some combination of the mulching being very course (perhaps due to tall or dense grass, mower travel speed being too high compared to blade speed, or incorrect blade being used, or something else in the design or condition of the mower being marginal), uneven spreading of the clippings (some areas of heavy deposit of clippings covering and overwhelming the blades of grass it lands on), and/or the rate of decomposition of the clippings (determined by such things as unmulched quantity and particle length, pH, nitrogen content, and perhaps other factors that I'm not aware of).
As I mentioned earlier, I highly favor the dual blades per spindle (crosscut) setups and higher blade speed setting on my mower because that gives a finer degree (smaller particle size) of mulching, favoring decomposition at a higher rate. That lessens the likelihood of thatch buildup that you describe.
FWIW, I have read that fescues are generally less prone to thatch buildup than other grasses (some "experts" say that fescues usually do not need dethatching), which means that they are less prone to some of the matting and disease problems you described.
I have had mowers in the past that did not mulch well, and experienced some of the problems you described - had to go back over some areas a second time - not to cut the grass again, but to redistribute the clippings that were previously dropped in clumps in small areas (often happened when the grass was seasonally growing thicker due to cooler weather, more rain, etc., or I had allowed the grass to get a little too tall before mowing, which overwhelmed the deck in trying to keep up with how fast it was pulling in more volume to be chopped up). I never have the problem anymore with the mower I now have - again, because it does a much better job of mulching even if thick or tall. I generally can't even find the clippings after mowing. Before, I didn't have to look for them - they were staring me in the face in little piles.
EDIT:
I know I'm being long-winded already, but here's something else to consider:
I could be wrong, but I get the impression that you are using side discharge.
When I got my current lawnmower (2 years ago), I had the option of installing the side discharge chute or letting the spring-loaded block-off piece swing down over the side discharge opening.
With side discharge, a lot of unchopped or incompletely chopped clippings get blown out over the yard -and that's exactly what I experienced before, especially in an overload (high volume of grass - thick and/or tall) situation.
With the side discharge blocked off as designed for complete mulching, the clippings are trapped floating between the blade plane and deck ceiling (rather than being able to escape unchopped out the side chute) and they get chopped up pretty fine before they drop below the blades onto the newly cut grass. The mower has the power snd the blade speed to handle the higher throughput fully mulched.
#34
S
slomo
S
slomo
And you have to store this contraption when no using.Mulch kits = marketing gimmick that uses more hp/fuel to do the same job as the standard/blade deck.
#35
S
slomo
One big item you missed from your list. WEEDS also get "distributed" all over your lawn while mulching. I hate weeds.........
Reason a good bagger creates the best visible cut. Not to mention all that cutting debris clogging the turf from water, fertilizer and sunlight.
S
slomo
That is the sales pitch for mulching. Sell more things we don't really need."Mulching really helps the grass in the long run because you're replenishing organic matter that helps add nitrogen back to your root zone.
One big item you missed from your list. WEEDS also get "distributed" all over your lawn while mulching. I hate weeds.........
Reason a good bagger creates the best visible cut. Not to mention all that cutting debris clogging the turf from water, fertilizer and sunlight.
#36
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Peva
I have had mowers that do not mulch well - and I agree that, with them, the clippings deposited in clumps on top of the turf can be problematic. However, it is not a problem with my current mower (dual blade per spindle, and blades always run at their highest speed).
With the clippings chopped up fine, they decompose quickly rather than forming a thick thatch layer. Also, as I mentioned earlier, I've seen claims that tall fescue in particular (and certain other types of grass) is/are less prone to heavy thatch build up.
I get that you like the broad, even dispersion of side discharge, but I prefer the very fine mulching w/o side discharge because the clippings don't get thrown into follower beds, etc. I don't see the fine chopped clippings - they don't lay in a blanket in places on top of the uncut turf like I used to get with side discharge or poor mulching - so I don't have to go over some areas a second time to break up the smothering "blanket" coverings. I don't have to deal with the extra steps of bagging and disposing, and, as already mentioned, because the clippings decompose back into the soil, less fertilizer is needed to replace lost nutrients.
I didn't have to buy anything extra for mulching. I did get the dual blades extra (<$50 total for both spindles). They do improve mulching, but they are beneficial for better quality and faster cutting whether mulching or not.
Weeds haven't been a problem as I've always hand weeded (with a weed fork) before cutting - just something I like to do, and less and less weeding each year when it's done regularly. Go a couple of years without doing that, and yes - they start coming back. I could use the chemicals more, but not really required if I stay on top of it.
It's a personal choice of tradeoffs.
P
Peva
Whether you are mowing with a 21” push mower, or a 61” zero turn, side discharge is always better than mulching, period. Get the clipping out as far as possible out of the exit chute. It will throw grass clippings 6’ to 8’ feet on a zero turn mower with the exit chute raised. This is the whole idea! Get the grass out and let it disperse evenly and it will look great, be better on the lawn, and easier on the mower.
I'm not trying to be argumentative. There are pluses and minuses to mulching vs. side discharge.That is the sales pitch for mulching. Sell more things we don't really need.
One big item you missed from your list. WEEDS also get "distributed" all over your lawn while mulching. I hate weeds.........
Reason a good bagger creates the best visible cut. Not to mention all that cutting debris clogging the turf from water, fertilizer and sunlight.
I have had mowers that do not mulch well - and I agree that, with them, the clippings deposited in clumps on top of the turf can be problematic. However, it is not a problem with my current mower (dual blade per spindle, and blades always run at their highest speed).
With the clippings chopped up fine, they decompose quickly rather than forming a thick thatch layer. Also, as I mentioned earlier, I've seen claims that tall fescue in particular (and certain other types of grass) is/are less prone to heavy thatch build up.
I get that you like the broad, even dispersion of side discharge, but I prefer the very fine mulching w/o side discharge because the clippings don't get thrown into follower beds, etc. I don't see the fine chopped clippings - they don't lay in a blanket in places on top of the uncut turf like I used to get with side discharge or poor mulching - so I don't have to go over some areas a second time to break up the smothering "blanket" coverings. I don't have to deal with the extra steps of bagging and disposing, and, as already mentioned, because the clippings decompose back into the soil, less fertilizer is needed to replace lost nutrients.
I didn't have to buy anything extra for mulching. I did get the dual blades extra (<$50 total for both spindles). They do improve mulching, but they are beneficial for better quality and faster cutting whether mulching or not.
Weeds haven't been a problem as I've always hand weeded (with a weed fork) before cutting - just something I like to do, and less and less weeding each year when it's done regularly. Go a couple of years without doing that, and yes - they start coming back. I could use the chemicals more, but not really required if I stay on top of it.
It's a personal choice of tradeoffs.