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Changing my trans-axle fluid on my cub cadet z-force 17AF3AGV010, one side didView attachment 68560 remove a little hard but did loosen, other side I thought was starting to break loose but my 1/4" hex socket spun and damaged the inside of the vent cap hole, now my 1/4" is too loose. Has anyone taking these vent caps off this any other tools or techniques? I was thinking maybe heat the vent cap first then try a small pipe wrench or vise grips, maybe buying a bigger hex socket and grind it down, then tap it into the damage cap hole? Any advice would be greatly appreciated...
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You may have to pull the hydro to do this but you should get a good grip on the flange of the screw to turn it out but first a couple heavy taps of a brass 2 lb hammer should be applied to jar loose the static seizure of the screw threads. Not too hard of blows as you don't want to damage case.

You are in a pickle, sadly. First rule=Never round off a bolt. I'm not going to get into questions about the proper tools, the damage is done. You will need to remove the transmission and your best bet is a machine shop. You can't heat it and you can't weld a tool into the hole, I know of no way of fixing that one.

I figured it wouldn't be an easy fix. I'll check on Youtube how to the remove the trasns-axle, hope I don't run into any problems there either. If I didn't have bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all, lol.. Thanks for all the advice, I'll keep you posted..

When you get the plug out change it to Hydro Gear 54730 which a external hex plug (9/16-18 threaded) with an o-ring seal.

grantiman said:

Changing my trans-axle fluid on my cub cadet z-force 17AF3AGV010, one side didView attachment 68560 remove a little hard but did loosen, other side I thought was starting to break loose but my 1/4" hex socket spun and damaged the inside of the vent cap hole, now my 1/4" is too loose. Has anyone taking these vent caps off this any other tools or techniques? I was thinking maybe heat the vent cap first then try a small pipe wrench or vise grips, maybe buying a bigger hex socket and grind it down, then tap it into the damage cap hole? Any advice would be greatly appreciated...
View attachment 68560View attachment 68560

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Be prepared with the removal tools needed then heat the case about an inch or two circle around from the plug . Here's the important part . Only raise the Al temperature 10 - 20 degrees . We need to be careful how much and where to heat because heating the plug to be is counter productive .

Do not heat the part to be removed . We're attempting to expand the case from the part to be removed . We're wanting only the case to ex[and ,

SeniorCitizen said:

Be prepared with the removal tools needed then heat the case about an inch or two circle around from the plug . Here's the important part . Only raise the Al temperature 10 - 20 degrees . We need to be careful how much and where to heat because heating the plug to be is counter productive .

Do not heat the part to be removed . We're attempting to expand the case from the part to be removed . We're wanting only the case to ex[and ,

Click to expand...

I'll remove the linkage rod and drive beat that's in my way so I have plenty room around the vent plug, also planning on making a heat shield that'll go over the trans-axle just in case any dry grass is hidden anywhere. I'll work gently with the heat and try moving the plug back and forth in hopes it'll break free. I'll keep you posted, thanks....

StarTech said:

When you get the plug out change it to Hydro Gear 54730 which a external hex plug (9/16-18 threaded) with an o-ring seal.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info on that Hydro Gear 54730 hex plug, found one on Amazon, if I ever get the old one out I'll be sure to use the hex plug

And most problems result of over tightening or bad tools used.I'm a fan of never seize,brass plugs,good tools including short ratchets,and having extra plugs,if it comes out difficult,inspect your tooling,and replace it and the plugs.Heat sets the fittings for possible problems next time.Good luck,pictures show what your up against

Or the incorrect tool...Otherwords using SAE tool in place of a Metric and vica versa. And the case of hex bits that worn out.

Update: Removed the deck and drive belt, raised the front up with a hydraulic mower jack, both trans axle plugs were simple to get at. The inside of the plug wasn't as badly damaged as I thought, my hex socket must have been on an angle which I couldn't totally see with everything in my way and working from the back of the mower, once everything was removed they were so much easier to get at from underneath. Tapped my hex socket in straight this time, just a little heat around the plug, a few good pulls and it snapped loose. Draining the axle fluid now, looks pretty thin and black, I never knew the trans axles were serviceable, it's the first fluid change and new filters in 15 yrs. Putting in new Hydro Gear external hex plugs which should make it easier to remove next time. I'll see how good my air purging is once I get the new fluid in and filters back on, I'll keep you posted...

Everything works great, trans axles sound quieter, steers 100% better. Now that I know the trans axles are serviceable, I'll be sure to change the filters and fluid more often. Thanks for all your help..