Export thread

I have a Briggs engine I got that has a valve seat that came out. I put the seat back in but I damaged the valve seal trying to pull it out and i need to replace it.

Anyone have any tips on how to remove it? Can I drill it out? I see Briggs has a tool for this but it's expensive. I searched but don't see any other advice except for using the tool. I'm a noobie so I just hope I can put this engine back together and have it run.

I would need to enlighten as to the tool you refer to as I haven't seen a Briggs specfic tool for this. But it out is not a option as you would damage the valve guide.

Besides ow did you damage the seal by replacing the valve seat. Where the seal is you need a valve spring compression tool to remove the valve and the seal.

I took the valves out. already, I thought the valve seal was also pushed out and grabbed it with a pliers and ripped the rubber when it was actually just fine. So, there was nothing wrong with the valve seal until I messed with it. By this time the valves were already disassembled.

Right now, the engine is completely apart. I need to get the old seal out to put the new one in.

This is the tool

You shouldn't use that tool unless you are replacing the valve guide itself beside that tool is the 3 cylinder liquid cooled Vanguard engines. What you would if you need to replace one of the valve guides would be 19269 1/4" Valve Guide Repair Kit but that kit is NLA.

It appears the seal appears to be rather hard to change out. Easier to get out than getting it back in. It is just a fiction fit but don't if any special is available it replacement. I ran into this particular style of seal. PS just be aware their is two different based on the manufactured date of the engine.

Can you take and post a few pictures of what you are talking about. We may have a confusion of terms and your problem may not be as bad as you think.

This is the problem. I ripped the rubber seal and now need to get it out.

I was thinking OHV not flathead. The seal is located in the cavity with the valve springs. The rubber seal is part of a cup that is pressed over the end of the valve guide inside that cavity. Should be able to pry it off the end of the guide with a screwdriver or something similar.

You can't pry it out with a screwdriver as don't can get in there easily.

Now that I see where the seat is what you need is a blind hole bearing puller to access the back of the seal so you can pull it out.

Personally looking at image of that particular I don't think it is pressed over the valve guide, just pressed into the recess. Late version on left and early version on the right. I believe you have the later version.

I thinking IL is thinking about the old version which was in the valve spring cavity but this one on the valve head side.

I have used a thin drift punch to drive this type of seal out. Yes, you must remove the camshaft and drive it out from inside the crankcase. Have seen others use a ground smooth key stock, because you need something which will not bend.

StarTech said:

You can't pry it out with a screwdriver as don't can get in there easily.

Now that I see where the seat is what you need is a blind hole bearing puller to access the back of the seal so you can pull it out.

Personally looking at image of that particular I don't think it is pressed over the valve guide, just pressed into the recess. Late version on left and early version on the right. I believe you have the later version.
View attachment 50939

Click to expand...

Pictured above is the type I have... The one that was on the right. I took a pliers and pulled on the rubber and ripped it which is why the part is ruined. Totally my fault. Now I need this out.

I did order the new part and it looks identical to this.

Not sure I can use a punch from the crank case. It appears from what I can tell, the punch would have no where to touch the valve seal this way. The walls were the valve seal fits appear to have a seat where the seal sits on, and the punch would not make contact. I hope my crudely conceived side view picture can help visualize this. Open to any suggestions as I am stumped.

What Rivets is suggesting is probably a thin pin punch that might work. As suggested what might to use a flat tip screw through the intake port. Or I as suggest a blind hole puller. So far the smaller diameter puller I have found is a 8mm (5/16) version. Now it is probably possible to modify the 8mm one to enter the 6mm (1/4) opening; although, I would think the rubber part is larger than the 1/4 valve stem. I have use similar bind hole pullers for removing needle bearings and bushings in blind holes.

I managed to get it out using a tap. I did try using a smaller tap an M7 at first and couldn't tell where it was at due to the rubber surround in the middle. Apparently these bushings are very thin and I managed to thread the wall of the slot where the valve goes. I hope I didn't just ruin this engine. I'm gonna put it back together anyway.