Nothing wrong with the Anti-Afterfire Solenoid. It switches back and forth fine. You unplug it and the engine stops running.
I put in a new spark plug, fuel filter and shut off valve in the gas line. Also...checked the cap for vent blockage.
Checked the spark while cranking and it is hot and jumps far.
Pulled the carbuerator and cleaned it. Didn't need it...it was clean as a new one. Blew through all holes and put back on engine.
NOW...The only thing I observed is while it is running at a slow speed (the only speed it runs) is that the black rubber hose running from the plastic elbow (where the air filter sits) to the top of the engine. It has no suction in or blowing out. WHAT SHOULD IT BE DOING?
I can get it to run if I prime it or put it on full choke and crank it alot. BUT...it is running at a fast idle even when the throttle lever is set on max for mowing.
It will not advance to max engine speed for mowing. Checked the throttle linkage and everything is working as it should.
Check my earlier post (posted yesterday) for more information.
Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks~~~~Ron
NOW...The only thing I observed is while it is running at a slow speed (the only speed it runs) is that the black rubber hose running from the plastic elbow (where the air filter sits) to the top of the engine. It has no suction in or blowing out. WHAT SHOULD IT BE DOING?
Thank you for the breather information. Someone suggested this on another site.
Another Suggestion: This Briggs engine is almost 9 years old. When was the LAST time that you checked and/or adjusted the valve lash on the engine?
I've never done this...Would someone be so kind to walk me through this process. I have experience with setting the lash on auto engines years ago. I have the tools and feeler gauges.
Please give me step by step and what is the lash set at on this Briggs 16hp 1-Cylinder engine.:thumbsup:
#4
EngineMan
One would if you give me the model number/type of the engine, it would help
It is a single cylinder Briggs & Stratton-16hp-gravity feed fuel system.
Thanks again for all your help~~~~Ron:thumbsup:
#6
EngineMan
This should do it.......
To adjust the valves on the engine, remove the screws in the valve covers and remove the valve covers. Remove the spark plug from the engine.
Put a clean small, but long, screwdriver into the spark plug opening so you can tell when the piston is at the top of the stroke.
Rotate the flywheel until the piston is at top dead center and neither valve has any pressure on them. The push rods will be loose in the rocker arm. If one push rod has pressure on it, rotate the engine again and when it comes back to the top of the stroke neither push rod should have any pressure.
Use a feeler gauge to measure the clearance between the end of the push rod and the rocker arm.
The clearance on the intake valve should be .003.- 005 inches. The clearance on the exhaust valve should be .005-.007 inches.
If adjustment is required, loosen the allen set screw in the center of the nut on the rocker arm and adjust the nut to obtain the proper clearance.
The intake push rod is aluminum, and the exhaust push rod is steel. This will help you determine which valve is which.
You could also have a worn lobe on the camshaft inside the engine. To test for this rotate the engine by hand and watch the rocker arms move. You should have about the same amount of lift on each rocker arm. If one or more rocker arms is barely moving, the lobe on the camshaft is worn.
